During the initial design that was considered but would have been in the way. Yes maybe it could have been done but why messs with something that worked on the other two boats in production that worked ok.
Hunter 260 - Big Problems - Water Ballast?
- Thread starter Tyler Rippel
- Start date
Why re-invent the wheel guys.
1 Transom chalk . It gets old.
2 companion way hatches from rain.
3 compression post . Chalk it.
4 side window hatches. Dry our and leak.
5 is the vent plug if it's old you will get a small amount of tank water. These are available everywhere for $5 . Replace.
1 Transom chalk . It gets old.
2 companion way hatches from rain.
3 compression post . Chalk it.
4 side window hatches. Dry our and leak.
5 is the vent plug if it's old you will get a small amount of tank water. These are available everywhere for $5 . Replace.
I have been following this post but it remains unclear to me how the "solution" (changing valve gasket and tightening up the valve) actually matches or fixes the originally stated symptoms. i.e. everything ok at midnight presumably after being in the water for some time and then 5 inches of water 5 hours later?
Two people sleeping in the aftberth.
No water in the 20gallon potable tank in the bow and the sugar scoop transom under water. = water leak if the chalking .seam has dried out.
No water in the 20gallon potable tank in the bow and the sugar scoop transom under water. = water leak if the chalking .seam has dried out.
Fred, I have been in touch with the Tyler and if the boat has more than 2 folks on board, most likely the water in the tank will reach the upper level where the bail plug is along with the wing nut and if not tightened down, water can seep thru if not secured tightly and or the bailer is defective/gasket under the large washer is no long good under that wing nut. Also what can attribute to this problem is the gasket on the shut off under the hull is defective allowing more water in. These issues have been resolved and no more seepage into the boat. It has happened a time or two with several of my new customers on this style boat.
I am 99% sure my issue was an old, not expanded/poorly fitted boat plug in the vent hole, coupled with my main ballast plug gasket failing and keeping the plug open, coupled with 3 adults and two kids (and likely an already full bilge that I hadn't checked, and a bunch of gear), and a perfect storm of weight adding more and more water to the situation as the ballast leaked out of the vent hole and into the bilge.
In related news, I just bought a syphon and pumped about 10 quarts of water out of the (oddly designed) floor pan beneath the cabin sole. I was able to wedge the tube above in between the bilge and cabin floor top at the aft berth and got most of the water out (hopefully)!
In related news, I just bought a syphon and pumped about 10 quarts of water out of the (oddly designed) floor pan beneath the cabin sole. I was able to wedge the tube above in between the bilge and cabin floor top at the aft berth and got most of the water out (hopefully)!
Tyler
That floor pan is one solid and I mean solid piece of fiberglass. Why the main floor section is recessed is the mere fact to accept the teak and holly sole floor which is glued down into the recess with liquid nails. You certainly would not a raised teak and holly sole which to trip over it but rather level with the rest of the interior cabin floor. The water ballast tank top which is a solid piece as well and secured to the hull is below the interior fiberglass floor pan. There is a raised section of the water ballast tank lid and what you probably got was the water trapped on top of that lid only.
That floor pan is one solid and I mean solid piece of fiberglass. Why the main floor section is recessed is the mere fact to accept the teak and holly sole floor which is glued down into the recess with liquid nails. You certainly would not a raised teak and holly sole which to trip over it but rather level with the rest of the interior cabin floor. The water ballast tank top which is a solid piece as well and secured to the hull is below the interior fiberglass floor pan. There is a raised section of the water ballast tank lid and what you probably got was the water trapped on top of that lid only.
I know this is an old thread but this is closest post to my issue, and I have related questions. I have water seeping from water ballast tank when boat is heavy loaded. The round plug is holding tight but the big wingnut/washer has water slowly seeping oucontinuously. I need to and will replace the gasket at the bottom of ballast tank I’m sure but it’s hard to image that would ever be absolutely water-tight. What is used to seal around the threaded rod, washer, and wingnut at the companionway step? Is there a gasket that I can replace to get an effective seal here?
Also, when replacing the gasket on the bottom opening for the ballast tank, what adhesive is recommended to hold gasket material to top of the disc? And do you really have to cut the gasket to get it up and over the disc and then try to seal the joint along the circumference? Again, hard to imagine this being completely water-tight.
My bilge stays dry for months in a slip, but with 2 men and gear for cruising on the gulf coast, I run into this every time.
I do not have issues at the hill to deck joint at the transom. I addressed this some years ago. My water is not coming from the back. I can see it coming in under the flip-up bottom step.
Also, when replacing the gasket on the bottom opening for the ballast tank, what adhesive is recommended to hold gasket material to top of the disc? And do you really have to cut the gasket to get it up and over the disc and then try to seal the joint along the circumference? Again, hard to imagine this being completely water-tight.
My bilge stays dry for months in a slip, but with 2 men and gear for cruising on the gulf coast, I run into this every time.
I do not have issues at the hill to deck joint at the transom. I addressed this some years ago. My water is not coming from the back. I can see it coming in under the flip-up bottom step.
The big washer under the wing nut has a rubber coating attached that hardens over the years.
Also when they originally installed the valve the hole and they drill into the fibreglass below the step, wasn’t always done with care and you can find the drain disk at the bottom sitting proud on one side .
open whole a little to make drain plug sit flush and epoxy hole to correct size .
Sand fibreglass smooth under the wing nut helps the seal as its rough molded finish.
Mouse pad thats at least 4 mm think attached to the bottom drain disk ( you will have to slit it to the centre to attach it if the boats on it trailer as the rod is too long and will rest on the keel bed .
new vent plug every 5 years or so and your good .
I agree with Dave that 4 - 5 big guys in the cockpit will expose any hull -deck or rudder post screw leaks.
keep water in the potable water tank ( 20 gallons ) and keep the boat in trim .
No longer have a 260 but have a lot of respect for the design.
Also when they originally installed the valve the hole and they drill into the fibreglass below the step, wasn’t always done with care and you can find the drain disk at the bottom sitting proud on one side .
open whole a little to make drain plug sit flush and epoxy hole to correct size .
Sand fibreglass smooth under the wing nut helps the seal as its rough molded finish.
Mouse pad thats at least 4 mm think attached to the bottom drain disk ( you will have to slit it to the centre to attach it if the boats on it trailer as the rod is too long and will rest on the keel bed .
new vent plug every 5 years or so and your good .
I agree with Dave that 4 - 5 big guys in the cockpit will expose any hull -deck or rudder post screw leaks.
keep water in the potable water tank ( 20 gallons ) and keep the boat in trim .
No longer have a 260 but have a lot of respect for the design.
Do you find the “mouse pad” provides a water-tight seal at the bottom or do you just have to get good seal on the two holes at top (wing-nut & rubber plug)?
Also, any advice on adhesive for gasket on the bottom disk?
Also, any advice on adhesive for gasket on the bottom disk?
It doesnt have to be completely water tight . but its just sealing 4 smaller drain holes in the hull .
you mentioned its the wing nut . If you wanted you could put a bead if silicon under the washer and letting it dry before retightening it down . I would be careful to try anything more permanent until on the trailer. ( Do not remove the lock ring ) I wouldnt want to be responsible for the vent plate dropping out the bottom .
their is a post in this forum about the drain plate not being flush and how its fixed.
Any marine Silicon would work as their is not much stress . — Sikaflex etc..
you mentioned its the wing nut . If you wanted you could put a bead if silicon under the washer and letting it dry before retightening it down . I would be careful to try anything more permanent until on the trailer. ( Do not remove the lock ring ) I wouldnt want to be responsible for the vent plate dropping out the bottom .
their is a post in this forum about the drain plate not being flush and how its fixed.
Any marine Silicon would work as their is not much stress . — Sikaflex etc..
Thanks for the advice.
If the bottom won’t be water-tight, then I guess the top-side will have to be. Even with a new gasket under the washer below the wing but, I don’t see how this can be sealed effectively with threaded rod protruding through center of gasket and no gasket between top of washer and bottom of wingnut. I can see reducing leakage but difficult to stop. And, I can’t add anything sealant wise while boat is loaded down. For some reason, in my case, water finds it’s way into bottom of cabinet under the galley sink in addition to the bilge under aft bunk. If we have heeling while sailing, everything gets wet, especially aft bunk mattresses and inevitable storage in this area during the day. Seems they would have raised this area a couple more inches.
If the bottom won’t be water-tight, then I guess the top-side will have to be. Even with a new gasket under the washer below the wing but, I don’t see how this can be sealed effectively with threaded rod protruding through center of gasket and no gasket between top of washer and bottom of wingnut. I can see reducing leakage but difficult to stop. And, I can’t add anything sealant wise while boat is loaded down. For some reason, in my case, water finds it’s way into bottom of cabinet under the galley sink in addition to the bilge under aft bunk. If we have heeling while sailing, everything gets wet, especially aft bunk mattresses and inevitable storage in this area during the day. Seems they would have raised this area a couple more inches.
I'm on a freshwater lake. Depending on which way the wind blows the water in my Marina can be very silty so after launching for the season I go out 50 yards into the lake to get clear water before opening the valve and filling the ballast tank.
When I launched a couple of weeks ago it was very silty, but it was late so I left the ballast valve closed and intended to fill it the next day. The next day I opened the valve and found that the ballast tank was full! Without a gasket, which is long gone, the tank filled up overnight. So, I suppose I can see that filling the boat with a bunch of people could cause the tank to overfill and leak into the boat if your gasket is poor or missing.
If I dropped that whole valve stem assembly out the bottom to add a gasket without a slit to the center when sitting in 4 feet of water, would I be able to get it back up into position without scuba gear?
When I launched a couple of weeks ago it was very silty, but it was late so I left the ballast valve closed and intended to fill it the next day. The next day I opened the valve and found that the ballast tank was full! Without a gasket, which is long gone, the tank filled up overnight. So, I suppose I can see that filling the boat with a bunch of people could cause the tank to overfill and leak into the boat if your gasket is poor or missing.
If I dropped that whole valve stem assembly out the bottom to add a gasket without a slit to the center when sitting in 4 feet of water, would I be able to get it back up into position without scuba gear?
I’m on my boat right now. Only two grown men, 180-200 lbs each, but with small generator, fuel, coolers with drinks/food, 5 gallons of extra water, typical gear, etc., and that’s all it takes. In saltwater. I’ve had my boat in a freshwater slip for years with bilge bone dry. This is our second trip to the coast like this, and we’ve had this same problem both times. When I dropped the boat in the water this time, I was careful to close up the water ballast tightly top and bottom before loading our gear. Still having the same issue. Water steadily oozing out around wingnut shaft and washer. If I were to pull plug, it would stream out. Not sure why this is not at least an inch or so higher to stay above water line. I don’t consider this boat heavily loaded functionally but apparently it is. And, I would think it would be better in saltwater than freshwater.
Its odd as the water level in my ballast tank never seemed to move up or down with the load. Its as if the ballast plate is completely open .
Even if the gasket on my “ballast plate” is totally shot, which is likely, it still seems that unless the plate at the bottom is water tight, the water level would still rise up with heavier load, just might take longer to get there. Just curious if the design intent was water-tight at the bottom or water-tight at the top of the ballast tank, as both seem challenging. I always thought the design was to keep the top of the ballast tank above the water line. But, in my case, it doesn’t take much of a load to lower the top of ballast tank below water line and therefore making sealing of the ballast tank critical. Still scratching my head on this.
Both top and bottom need to be tight. There are only three places to that tank. The inlet on the bottom of the hull with the other two under the bottom step