How worried should I be about the Home Depot technique for crimping stainless wire?

Apr 8, 2011
772
Hunter 40 Deale, MD
So I purchased a new dinghy this week and needed stainless braided wire crimped with a loop on each end to go onto my transom u-bolts, and the other loop to go to a stainless O ring which is connected to my davit hoist. Dingy + motor = 131 lbs (I leave the 4hp motor attached while in the davits). I have no experience working with braided wire.

I dropped by Home Depot to find they had 1/4" uncoated stainless wire for a reasonable price (380 lb working weight for the wire and the dinghy will be slung from 4 points, so the working weight at each point will be some fraction of the 131 lbs), as well as the aluminum crimps, and a wire cutter and crimper to use. Sweet! So I asked a Home Depot associate for assistance in putting together the two pieces that I needed, and he made them for me on the spot. Total cost for ~3' of 1/4" stainless wire and 2 packages of aluminum crimps were $6.50, labor was free. They, somewhat roughly, came out like I needed.

However...

I'm concerned about the technique the Associate used and whether the resulting strength of the crimps can be relied upon. While he made the first loop he picked up a hammer and got onto the floor and smashed the aluminum crimp flat, leaving the slightly frayed end of the wire without a cap ("I don't use those, just put some electrical tape around it."). I asked him whether he should be using the crimper and his response was "My method is better." Blocking the entire isle with this project and his expansive claw hammer stokes he proceeded to finish the project for me. And for that I'm grateful. And his enthusiasm was noted by many of us.

But I'm wondering if the "hammer smash" method of crimping provides the necessary and expected strength for the crimps, or if I can look forward to having one or more unexpectedly fail, dropping the stern of the dinghy unceremoniously into my wake without warning while underway, causing unwanted excitement, and possibly great expense. I can certainly clean up the frayed ends with some rigger's tape, if that's the only issue.

Thoughts? Should I be worried?
 
Oct 26, 2008
6,241
Catalina 320 Barnegat, NJ
It sounds like a funny story, but the load seems to be so light that I probably wouldn't worry about it! I'd guess that you would notice some loosening or cracks in the swage before an outright failure.

Based on a previous thread, a better alternative would be zinc-coated copper swages (aluminum/stainless steel is a corrosive match) crimped with an actual crimping tool. The crimping tool would be far more expensive than the project, though. I'm sure the Home Depot guy didn't have one to work with. If you could locate a crimping tool, I'd try again.
 
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Likes: ggrizzard
Jan 25, 2011
2,436
S2 11.0A Anacortes, WA
Leave em on the floor and run as fast as you can. I doubt the stainless is a good quality stainless and aluminum is not compatible with stainless. There is NO way to trust the crimp as it’s not an established method. Run, run,…
 

jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
22,825
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
$6.50. I got out of the store with what I think I needed.

My suspicion is you have a servicable solution for a period of time. Aluminum/Stainless crimps will show corrosion over time. 1 year, 3 years who knows. As stated materials are from HOME DEPOT. They are not known for metal wires and fasteners that are of long endurance materials. Wire (if stainless) is likely 304 not 316, would be my guess.

Put it to use and monitor the results. Reprt back every few months as to how it is getting along. It will be helpful to the members here.

I would choose to use dyneema line plus block and tackle. I would have a higher aquisition cost but I conjecture a longer useful life.
 
May 17, 2004
5,554
Beneteau Oceanis 37 Havre de Grace
I would choose to use dyneema line plus block and tackle. I would have a higher aquisition cost but I conjecture a longer useful life.
Dyneema would be my preference too. Much more convenient to lay down when the dinghy isn’t hanging from it. 1/4” dyneema is $1.35/ft and silly strong, and you can get some thimbles to minimize chafe at the ends. Splice it yourself with a D-splicer, fid, or coat hanger in probably about the same time it takes to drive to HD.

I’d say to use what you’ve got for now, watch for corrosion, then switch to dyneema when the time comes.
 
Apr 8, 2011
772
Hunter 40 Deale, MD
$6.50. I got out of the store with what I think I needed.

My suspicion is you have a servicable solution for a period of time. Aluminum/Stainless crimps will show corrosion over time. 1 year, 3 years who knows. As stated materials are from HOME DEPOT. They are not known for metal wires and fasteners that are of long endurance materials. Wire (if stainless) is likely 304 not 316, would be my guess.

Put it to use and monitor the results. Reprt back every few months as to how it is getting along. It will be helpful to the members here.

I would choose to use dyneema line plus block and tackle. I would have a higher aquisition cost but I conjecture a longer useful life.
Interesting thought on dyneema @jssailem. I like that idea a lot, and hadn't thought of it for this application.
 
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Jan 11, 2014
12,754
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
I’d say to use what you’ve got for now, watch for corrosion, then switch to dyneema when the time comes.
Unfortunately, the time will come when the dinghy is dangling off the davits by one line in a seaway surfing down waves in 20 knots.

Convert the cable you have to some other use, like securing the dinghy motor to slow down the thieves or securing the dinghy to a dock.

I used some good quality 3 strand nylon to make a lifting bridle for my dinghy. Three strand is easy to splice (once you get the first tucks right) and the line is relatively inexpensive. Splice a loop at the end and use SS or aluminum carabiners.
 
Apr 8, 2011
772
Hunter 40 Deale, MD
It sounds like a funny story, but the load seems to be so light that I probably wouldn't worry about it! I'd guess that you would notice some loosening or cracks in the swage before an outright failure.

Based on a previous thread, a better alternative would be zinc-coated copper swages (aluminum/stainless steel is a corrosive match) crimped with an actual crimping tool. The crimping tool would be far more expensive than the project, though. I'm sure the Home Depot guy didn't have one to work with. If you could locate a crimping tool, I'd try again.
Oh the crimping tool was right there - I pointed it out to him - and he declined to use it.
 
Jan 19, 2010
12,553
Hobie 16 & Rhodes 22 Skeeter Charleston
Sounds like you will be going with dynema but if you decide to build your own in the future, the most expensive part of the operation will be the swaging tool. And as mentioned, aluminum on SS is not a great choice. For the loads you are considering, a good alternative would be to use SS cable (inexpensive) and SS cable nuts like these...

1662064367468.png


I keep some of these and some extra cable in my box of emergency parts.
 
Jan 11, 2014
12,754
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
The issue with the bulldog clamps and Nico press style swaging is attaching the stud that needs to go into the turnbuckle.

A rolled swage to the stud or a (very expensive) Sta-lock mechanical fitting will be necessary.

 
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Apr 8, 2011
772
Hunter 40 Deale, MD
Thanks for all the advice everyone. I will probably use the $6 solution for this long weekend trip, and then build a dyneema solution, which looks to be very easy to work with for the more permanent solution. Its great to get a good spread of thoughts and advice very quickly. Thanks for taking the time to respond. Just for grins I'll try to post a photo or two of the masterpiece from Home Depot.
 
Jan 11, 2014
12,754
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
The issue with the bulldog clamps and Nico press style swaging is attaching the stud that needs to go into the turnbuckle.

A rolled swage to the stud or a (very expensive) Sta-lock mechanical fitting will be necessary.

Oops. There is another thread about less expensive solutions for rigging and I meant to post the above post to that thread. Too many pages open at one time I suppose. At least that's my story and I'm sticking to it. :facepalm::biggrin:
 
Mar 26, 2011
3,677
Corsair F-24 MK I Deale, MD
All sorts of cute sollutions (I would go with Dyneema if I did not have the proper crimper, and probably anyway).

But back in the day we would have just tied this out of 3/8" polyester double braid and gone sailing. Safer than HD swaging!
 
Apr 8, 2011
772
Hunter 40 Deale, MD
All sorts of cute sollutions (I would go with Dyneema if I did not have the proper crimper, and probably anyway).

But back in the day we would have just tied this out of 3/8" polyester double braid and gone sailing. Safer than HD swaging!
Fair point - that's how my last dinghy was hung from the davits. I wanted a different solution this time.
 

ShawnL

.
Jul 29, 2020
147
Catalina 22 3603 Calumet Mi
I'm somewhat ashamed to say I did a similar thing with the pendant I use to get my jib a little higher off the deck. Bought some stainless cable, and some of those aluminum fittings. Brought it all home, made the pendant and used the narrow side of a blacksmith-type hammer (tapers to a small horizontal section, not a point) to put 3 or 4 good horizontal crimps in it. Admittedly, it's on a Catalina 22 so the loads are small -- but I know it will need to be replaced once I'm sure the length is correct. So far it's lasted 2 seasons.
 

jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
22,825
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
@ShawnL you have a little advantage. Your in fresh water. And you put your boat up for winter. Both will help to extend the life of your pendant whether you want it or not.

I helped a local sailor add a pendant using Dyneema to lift his sail tack. They are easy to make and last maybe longer than most owners keep their boat. Added advantage, they are superstrong and cheap.
 
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May 7, 2011
222
Catalina 30 Lake Lanier
Oh the crimping tool was right there - I pointed it out to him - and he declined to use it.
I'd have asked for someone else if he refused to use the crimper. If hammering it was better, THAT would be the accepted way to do it. I would guess he had little to no training/experience using the crimper. An orange apron does not make him an expert. .

(The proper crimper will compress the jacket on all sides evenly and not distort the cable, unlike hammering which only flattens two sides unevenly - putting a lot of stress on the jacket - as well as distorting the cable.)