How to re-bed the shrouds
- Thread starter rpwillia
- Start date
![20190915_164418[1].jpg](/data/attachments/148/148698-3b6cae09e1207f61bcd2347db1b9044d.jpg)
![20190915_164448[1].jpg](/data/attachments/148/148699-dfbe82e6c2b848fcbee07865bcf0ca41.jpg)
That little piece of wood is an interesting detail. Otherwise, it looks pretty straight forward.
-Will (Dragonfly)
-Will (Dragonfly)
We are tackling removal, inspection and rebedding this week. What's interesting is that your cover is through bolted. On our 2001 the cover is held down with screws. I was thinking of through bolting them. Do you have pics on the other side of the bulk head?
Curt rebedding his with butyl. There are a couple of posts that have his pics. I plan to chamfer the edge around the plate with a dremel and use butyl. In the past I just lifted the cover, cleaned off the old bedding material and rebedded with poly sulfide
Curt rebedding his with butyl. There are a couple of posts that have his pics. I plan to chamfer the edge around the plate with a dremel and use butyl. In the past I just lifted the cover, cleaned off the old bedding material and rebedded with poly sulfide
My O'day 25 had the cover plates separate and just screwed down like you describe, it was a snap to rebed them, fun times for us I guess!
@rpwillia I'm guessing ours rebedding will be a bit more involved for sure, luckily this isn't on my to do list. I would work in opposite pairs by loosening them and then removing one at a time. Shouldn't be too hard but having a second set of hands would make it go easier and faster.
@rpwillia I'm guessing ours rebedding will be a bit more involved for sure, luckily this isn't on my to do list. I would work in opposite pairs by loosening them and then removing one at a time. Shouldn't be too hard but having a second set of hands would make it go easier and faster.
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Here is a post from Curt on how he did his chainplates with butyl. He has the same style as me.
Rear chainplates almost done. Just waiting on the spotless stainless for the starboard plate.
18 years old.
I know conventional logic says to change it but we have seen lots of issues with quality of the rigging down here. Just the other day another sailor asked where I got my rigging replaced because it looked good.
I know conventional logic says to change it but we have seen lots of issues with quality of the rigging down here. Just the other day another sailor asked where I got my rigging replaced because it looked good.
In the past I used dyes made for airplanes to show cracks. Never found an issue on our rig but did find two cracks in toggles on a friend's boat. I don't have access to Amazon at the moment so I can't get anymore of the dye.
Thankfully I have the new style chain plates. I owe you guys two more pictures, one of the chain plate from the forward side of the bulkhead and the other from topside (I think that other picture was one of the stays). The part I am scratching my head about is that there are no bolts visible on the forward side underneath, but there are clearly 4 screws on the topside part.
I did just read Curt's post about re-bedding and I have pretty much the same set up. I was hoping to be able to do this quick and dirty while the mast is up, but if I have to pull everything I may need to re-think this. It also appears the two after screws are bolted down below and my big question was about the forward pair of screws as I cannot see anything forward of the bulkhead. I am wondering if they are just screwed into the deck.
I did just read Curt's post about re-bedding and I have pretty much the same set up. I was hoping to be able to do this quick and dirty while the mast is up, but if I have to pull everything I may need to re-think this. It also appears the two after screws are bolted down below and my big question was about the forward pair of screws as I cannot see anything forward of the bulkhead. I am wondering if they are just screwed into the deck.
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That top down picture is definitely the cap shroud chainplate and what is connected to the bulkhead below. That would lead me to think that Catalina used screws on the forward part of the plate if you don't have bolts coming through in the vee berth.
As far as doing it with the mast up, not an issue. Do one at a time and loosen the other side a bit before you do it. You can use halyards to add additional support if you want some reinsurance.
First of the shroud chainplates out. This is the starboard aft lower.
Take a closer look at the bolts.
That is some serious "S" curves. All we can figure is this was caused by Hurricane Maria. The chainplate is perfectly straight.
I will be curious what the rest of you find when you get into your chain plates.
These are 1/4" machine screws 2 3/4" in length. Of course no one makes 2 3/4" screws that are readily available. So you have to get 3" and cut them. I picked up a stock of 2" and 3" in Saint Maarten because I knew resources are limited in Bequia. So far these two sizes have been long enough for everything but the helm station. If you want to change from screws to through bolts at the helm station you need 3 1/2 inch screws.
Take a closer look at the bolts.
That is some serious "S" curves. All we can figure is this was caused by Hurricane Maria. The chainplate is perfectly straight.
I will be curious what the rest of you find when you get into your chain plates.
These are 1/4" machine screws 2 3/4" in length. Of course no one makes 2 3/4" screws that are readily available. So you have to get 3" and cut them. I picked up a stock of 2" and 3" in Saint Maarten because I knew resources are limited in Bequia. So far these two sizes have been long enough for everything but the helm station. If you want to change from screws to through bolts at the helm station you need 3 1/2 inch screws.