Hatch lens replacement Puget Sound area
- Thread starter mermike
- Start date
For PacificNW sailing I would be inclined to go the Dow 795 path and forego the Sika system. If I was crossing an ocean and concerned about the risk of boarding water in a knockdown, then the moderate additional expenditure that reduced the risk proportionally would be higher in my priority list.
Tape? I used the prep, primer for acrylic to aluminum contact and the adhesive. I did two large 2x2 and a smaller hatch. Adhered the panels then filled in after.
I often seen sunbrella used as a bonnet, so to speak, that you put on when the boats not in use. I see this most often on Florida boats, or boats that spend a lot of time in the tropics. I've seen them where the sides have a bungee cord in them so they just kind of snap in place and I've seen them with grommets and a line run through them so you can tighten them in place. I'd probably do the later, although both work, and not worry about the tape.
dj
I didn’t run across that in my research. I made hatch covers that are on 99% of the time so no issue for me.
I wouldn't worry too much about this, but, you can get this tape - this one would probably be fine. Haven't used it, can't vouch for it...
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dj
mermike,
Not familiar with your hatch but are you looking to replace the lens because it’s broken or cloudy/oxidation? If oxidized I reconditioned mine about five years ago by sanding off the heavy oxidation with an orbital sander and then wet sanded with multiple grit paper until lens was crystal clear. Almost the same principle as headlight restoration. Afterwards I sprayed a really good automotive clear coat to help protect against the elements and uv.
Believe or not toothpaste worked pretty well on port lights as well and that’s what led me to try to restore the hatches. Total cost was about $25 and about an hour of work.
Five years later they still look factory new.
Not familiar with your hatch but are you looking to replace the lens because it’s broken or cloudy/oxidation? If oxidized I reconditioned mine about five years ago by sanding off the heavy oxidation with an orbital sander and then wet sanded with multiple grit paper until lens was crystal clear. Almost the same principle as headlight restoration. Afterwards I sprayed a really good automotive clear coat to help protect against the elements and uv.
Believe or not toothpaste worked pretty well on port lights as well and that’s what led me to try to restore the hatches. Total cost was about $25 and about an hour of work.
Five years later they still look factory new.
We are trying to replace the "glass" in our Bomar front hatch for a Hunter 37. Clear Cut Plastics in Seattle, can cut and drill the glass for the handles...no issues and have colored glass to help with UV.
Our issue is getting it out of the metal frame to be able to install the new gasket on the glass, and re-attach into the frame. Sending it to Hatchmasters is both quite pricey for freight, as well as their 10-12 week time frame (too far into NW boating season to not have).
Was hoping to find a local PNW supplier/repair house that could do this piece of the project so followed this link, but found no good answer.
Our issue is getting it out of the metal frame to be able to install the new gasket on the glass, and re-attach into the frame. Sending it to Hatchmasters is both quite pricey for freight, as well as their 10-12 week time frame (too far into NW boating season to not have).
Was hoping to find a local PNW supplier/repair house that could do this piece of the project so followed this link, but found no good answer.
You use the word "Glass". I do have glass in my ports and took them to Clearview Glass in Everett.
www.clearviewglass.com
They may be able to help.
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Thanks John - it is not actual glass, but the typical plastic lens glass used in most boat hatches. We are having a new piece cut at Clear Cut in Seattle, but need help with the actual frame and replacing the gasket inside the frame. Hatchmasters does this work back on east coast, but as mentioned the timing and cost are prohibitive so looking for a local marine craftsman that may help.
If you are using UV filtering cast acrylic you don't need the tape. That's only for lenses that allow greater UV transmission. UV filtering polycarbonate also the same...
dj
Not sure what manufacturer fabricated your hatch.
I used Sika system (uv adhesive, cleaner, and two different primers) with poor results. Meticulous preparation with failure within six months on a fixed mounted frameless deck skylight. Much better results with Dow 795 at 1/3 the cost of Sika. Was able to purchase cast acrylic lens from TAP plastics in CA at very reasonable cost and quick shipment.
I used Sika system (uv adhesive, cleaner, and two different primers) with poor results. Meticulous preparation with failure within six months on a fixed mounted frameless deck skylight. Much better results with Dow 795 at 1/3 the cost of Sika. Was able to purchase cast acrylic lens from TAP plastics in CA at very reasonable cost and quick shipment.