Garlick Outboard Bracket bolt pattern for the 71090:01

agprice22 · Jun 6, 2015

You will have no problem drilling aluminum. It is soft. Don't press too hard, and the bit won't dig too deep too quickly.

I have installed the Garelick bracket on my 272, and I found it does not travel as far downward as the old. I mounted it in the original holes. I think I will lower it after this season.

My friend has the Garelick on his Oday 26, and he feels the same way: his motor rides too high.

thepiratedoc · Jun 6, 2015

Andrew I was curious what shaft length your motor is - I'm prepping to mount a Tohatsu 9.8 with 25" shaft on my 272 and am wondering about the travel issue. I'll be having to place a mounting plate as well due to the larger footprint of the 4 stroke mounts. Hell, even Garelick's 2 current stroke mounts have a larger footprint than the original did! Thanks -

agprice22 · Jun 6, 2015

thepiratedoc said:
Andrew I was curious what shaft length your motor is - I'm prepping to mount a Tohatsu 9.8 with 25" shaft on my 272 and am wondering about the travel issue. I'll be having to place a mounting plate as well due to the larger footprint of the 4 stroke mounts. Hell, even Garelick's 2 current stroke mounts have a larger footprint than the original did! Thanks -

It is probably the same engine!

I have the 2012 Yamaha 9.9 xpha. 25" shaft, high thrust, power tilt.

The original mount put it much lower in the water than the Garelick.

Thanks,

Andrew

Pas · Jun 12, 2015

Some Pics

Hi all,

I have an O'Day 22 - late seventies.

Had an issue with the bracket and replaced it with a 71090 bracket. Had to remake the wedge as the mounting holes on the bracket are positioned a wee bit wider. Here are a few pics.

I mounted the wedge at the same default height and centered it over the dimensions of the previous wedge (basically same shaped wedge, just wider). The wedge is also slightly wider than the bracket - about a half inch more on each side. Anyway, I assumed the Garelick had more travel down than my old bracket – but you’ll note from the pictures that at LOWEST position the prop sits with the cavitation plate just an inch+ below the waterline. The instructions (attached here as well) I take it don’t allow for any more travel down - so keep that in mind. If you want the prop a bit further down, lower bracket (wedge) accordingly. It might be preferable to have the option to go a notch lower all things considered.

Note the reach out to the motor is a good one – I am half over the stern to get to it. However, I don’t have to lift or lower the motor at all using the bracket handle. The tilt on the motor is sufficient to lift the prop out of the water. I’m using a long-shaft 2014 Yamaha 6hp outboard.
Pas

Pas · Jun 15, 2015

mlindberg1 said:
I have not mounted the bracket yet and by looking at your pictures, I think I need to make it lower. I might try to make the transfer aluminum bracket bolt to the existing bracket but make it longer so it will reach down further. Is that an extra long shaft? It looks it.

thanks for posting the pictures as they will help during the installation.

It appears that when the Garelick 71090 is all the way down, it's just about horizontal. not like the old bracket which reaches down quite a bit.

Yes, it is virtually horizontal and that came as a surprise to me!
If it helps to have some other pictures let me know.

j13alber · Oct 1, 2015

Re: Some Pics

PAS, do you any suggestions to how you made the wedge? I need the same setup on my 26'

Pas · Oct 1, 2015

j13alber said:
PAS, do you any suggestions to how you made the wedge? I need the same setup on my 26'

I am currently away from the boat for about a week (out of town). If I can help when I return just let me know. From what I recall, I think I used fir plywood - 3/4inch. Cut a series of pieces - maybe 5 or 6 (you need to get the max thickness of the bracket currently on your 26), and each piece was the rough dimension of the plate on the mount (maybe about 8" x 11" not sure). I think I was worried about boring holes for the bolts right up against the edge of the wood block so I think I measured about a quarter inch extra (extra to the width of the mount plate) along the two longer sides where the bolts would be positioned. Epoxied the pieces together. The trick then was to shape it for the transom of course – and there the old wedge helped me get a sense for the angle and thickness of the tapered bottom and relative thickness of each side. Once the block was cut, I sanded it down to get a reasonably good contact surface to the transom and epoxy/fiberglassed the whole block up.When you get to mounting it, you might want to put a good dollop of Sikaflex 291Adhesive/Sealant on the point of contact between the boat and the block to keep water out.

Pas

Pas · Oct 1, 2015

Pas said:
I am currently away from the boat for about a week (out of town). If I can help when I return just let me know. From what I recall, I think I used fir plywood - 3/4inch. Cut a series of pieces - maybe 5 or 6 (you need to get the max thickness of the bracket currently on your 26), and each piece was the rough dimension of the plate on the mount (maybe about 8" x 11" not sure). I think I was worried about boring holes for the bolts right up against the edge of the wood block so I think I measured about a quarter inch extra (extra to the width of the mount plate) along the two longer sides where the bolts would be positioned. Epoxied the pieces together. The trick then was to shape it for the transom of course – and there the old wedge helped me get a sense for the angle and thickness of the tapered bottom and relative thickness of each side. Once the block was cut, I sanded it down to get a reasonably good contact surface to the transom and epoxy/fiberglassed the whole block up.When you get to mounting it, you might want to put a good dollop of Sikaflex 291Adhesive/Sealant on the point of contact between the boat and the block to keep water out.

Pas

By the way, I've seen a few others on the dock use UHMW Polyethylene blocks to avoid all the epoxy work. Since the wedge is a spacer, the plastic option might work. Maybe others can chime in here -

Windtherapy · Oct 4, 2015

And another project I must do. Like seeing others accomplished this and it looks sweet. I do not have a long shaft on my Honda 4 Stroke 9.9 so I will need to get it down farther somehow.

I have to ask, can;t somebody just take the black mounting plate off the existing wedge and build a wider one for the Garelick which is just barely wider?

Windtherapy · Oct 4, 2015

Searching for ideas I ran into this. I think I might just do this but would prefer to build it out of Starboard or something other than wood.

http://www.myoday23.com/2014/05/with-no-inboard-motor-i-need-to-install.html

Windtherapy · Oct 4, 2015

And then fund this on this site. Just throwing out ideas. This looks simple.

Ward H · Oct 5, 2015

Wind,
Your first photo is the way my 25 is done. Just a large plate of what looks like starboard screwed tightly to the transom, re enforced with same inside, then bracket through bolted through both plates. No wedge. Bracket and motor tilt adjustment allow motor to be set to vertical. I have seen one other 25 done the same way.
Works well for me.

Windtherapy · Oct 6, 2015

Ward H said:
Wind,
Your first photo is the way my 25 is done. Just a large plate of what looks like starboard screwed tightly to the transom, re enforced with same inside, then bracket through bolted through both plates. No wedge. Bracket and motor tilt adjustment allow motor to be set to vertical. I have seen one other 25 done the same way.
Works well for me.

Can I ask what bracket did you use? I need the Garelick 4 stroke one.

Ward H · Oct 6, 2015

Mine was done in 2002 before I got the boat. The OMC bracket is not vertical but the OB has trim adjustment which allows it to be set vertical.

Windtherapy · Oct 7, 2015

Why couldn't someone use the starboard like yours but install a Garelick and even though when lowering unit it would be angled but you could just tilt your motor according on one of the 3 to 5 tilt positions until straight up or down or whatever angle you want it to be? I posted 3 pics. Heck on my original motor carrier the black base is angled quite a bit. I would think it would be more vertical with the Garelick just mounted onto the transom with Starboard underneath. Then one would still have the two other options to tilt it to the correct vertical position. Am I missing something here? Can it be that easy or am I not looking at these angles correctly for both the transom and the Garelick carrier when up and down?

Ward H · Oct 7, 2015

I think it will be that easy. The only reason I can possibly see for the wedge is if the OB is too close the transom to tilt back while in the the up position. Not the case in my set up.

Windtherapy · Oct 8, 2015

Ward H said:
I think it will be that easy. The only reason I can possibly see for the wedge is if the OB is too close the transom to tilt back while in the the up position. Not the case in my set up.

And I am hoping to find the correct position and just tilt my motor up each time--I hope anyway!

Garlick Outboard Bracket bolt pattern for the 71090:01

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