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Forum Newcomer! 1991 Catalina 30 mkii - need upgrade/repair advice

Mar 14, 2018
3
Catalina 30 mkII Lake Lanier, GA
Hello friends! I've been sailing my whole life but just purchased my first cruising sailboat, a 1991 Cat30 mkii tall rig! I will be using this for freshwater lake cruising with my family of 4. Having just transported it from out of state to my local lake in GA, I wanted to take care of some deferred maintenance while she's on the hard. While I have had experience in many areas of sailboat repair and maintenance, one area where I'm a total newbie is the standing rigging. I was hoping someone here could offer some advice regarding my forestay and clevis at the masthead. The forestay seems to be in poor shape (untwisting) near the swage at the masthead, and the clevis appears to have been beat up somehow. I'm including some photos for your reference. Do I need to replace the forestay entirely, along with the clevis pin? or does this seem repairable? If the former, are these parts what I will need?

1) forestay kit: https://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm/product/2053/forestay-trim-2-fit-stud-c-30.cfm

2) masthead clevis pin: https://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm/product/2739/c-30-c-34-c-36-masthead-clevis-pin.cfm

Also, is it ok for me to just replace the forestay and not the backstay & shrouds too?
Thanks in advance for any advice / direction!!! I greatly appreciate it and look forward to participating on the forum! Thanks in advance for your guidance!
 

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Jul 7, 2004
7,104
Hunter 30T Cheney, KS
I'm no expert, but I don't like the looks of it. I'd replace the whole stay and hardware. Some will say while you have the mast down replace all the stays, but it's your $$.
Post some pics of her when you get a chance
 
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May 12, 2004
1,266
Hunter Cherubini 30 New Port Richey
First, welcome to the forum. Second, if you are unsure about critical pieces of gear, such as shrouds and stays that hold your mast up, replace them. No amount of $$$ will replace a member of your family if something that could have been avoided goes wrong. And things DO go wrong. A small price to pay for piece o' mind. Good luck with her.
 
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Mar 14, 2018
3
Catalina 30 mkII Lake Lanier, GA
Thanks Justin_NSA and Roland5048 - yes I agree I would rather just replace the forestay, but if the other stays are in good shape, I'd rather not replace them all if I don't have to. Curious if any forum members have had experience replacing their standing rigging (DIY) vs. hiring someone to do it. Please chime in if so. I found a few generic YouTube vids on the subject, but nothing specific to Catalina 30s.
 
May 12, 2004
1,266
Hunter Cherubini 30 New Port Richey
Do you know how old the rigging is? I would have a professional rigger look at it first. I was concerned about mine and had a rigger look at it. This was a couple of years ago. He deemed it to be in good condition. Cost: $80. Could have probably talked me into new rigging but was an honest guy. As you probably know, there can be hidden defects and flaws. SS seems to corrode from the inside. Had that happen with two chainplates that broke under sail. Couldn't see the corrosion from the outside. Lucky I didn't lose the rig. That's where I would start. Some DIY projects cost more in the long run. You want to know you have good, vital equipment when the proverbial $hit hits the fan.
 
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Sep 15, 2016
504
Catalina 22 Minnesota
I used to have a C30 tall rig as well thery a great boat and congratulations on her. Rigging is not so hard if your a competent DIY guy. I did all my rigging myself for about 1100 on the C30 with the mast up. Your forestay is shot so definitely replace that. Your clevis pin is damaged from Vice grips that were used in holding the pin while removing the cotter key on the back side. The notches don't affect anything but you will want to remove the pin and check for wear where the forestay eye makes contact with the pin. If its worn replace it as its cheap insurance.

As for replacing all the rigging I am in the better safe than sorry camp. Fractures are usually invisible to the naked eye and develop in the swages on the stays. so you want to look real close or use a liquid dye to drop on the stay in hopes of revealing any cracks. As others have said it's your $$ so do what you can afford and so long as you're confident that it is safe.

When it comes to replacing stays simply remove the stay and then take it to a local rigger who can make you a new swaged cable. This saves drastically on the rigger cost as you are doing all the expensive labor and it only takes them a few min to make each stay. There easy to do but you'll want to know how much to have them shortened based on their stretch. If you simply remake the stay the same length and it's already stretched you will run out of adjustment before the cable is due for replacement or possibly even tight. Depending on how adventurous you are replacing cables while aloft is not so bad. You can climb the mast alone using ascenders from a rock climbing store like REI and a chair so you don't need to use the winches and have someone pull you up. Just cleat off the halyard and climb up the loose end. This also works well for spreader work and Christmas lights as the bitter end of the halyard your climbing on can be left loose and you can swing around the mast or rigging as needed. Once your aloft you can remove both cap shrouds or both fore & back stays but make sure the lowers are still tensioned and the fore / back stays or cap shrouds are not tight as you don't want to fold the mast. That again depends on how adventurous, young, and light you are as the stick unsupported that high in the air is very wobbly. But hey it can be done and I have done it a few times before. If you want the ultimate DIY them you need Sta-Loc terminals and you don't need to have them swaged.

Either way have fun with it. Replace the forestay and see what else needs attention. Rigging is more forgiving if your a fair weather sailor than if your trying to cross oceans or trying to go out when the weather has the potential to turn and knock you down. Fair Winds
 
Oct 26, 2008
4,570
Catalina 320 Barnegat, NJ
Hello Elliott,

I say replace all the rigging. Most likely it is original and going on over 25 years. You don't know the history, the forestay looks shot, you are a first time cruising sailboat owner, don't DIY. Find a real rigger and just spend the money for peace of mind. Your mast is down, so do it now. You may not be taking your mast down again for many years. Look into upgrading the furler while you are at it. Talk to the rigger about it. Don't get talked into the cheapest option (CDI).
If you take this advise, you will have no problems with your rigging and no question about it probably for the period of time you own the boat. If you DIY, you may be fine on your own. But I don't know you so I'm not going to say DIY. I'd tell you to pay for peace of mind. The very fact that you are asking these questions tells me that you are probably better off seeking professional assistance.

Rig failure on a 30' boat is a serious calamity, not to be taken lightly. As you grow into this boat, you will learn a lot about everything, and you will have plenty of DIY opportunities. My advise is to start out on the safe side with the rigging. When you grow into it, you will know enough to handle your next rigging project.
I don't mean to discourage you from taking on projects. Just start safe and enjoy sailing before taking a chance with your life at the very start of this new experience.
Good luck and have fun!
 
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Oct 29, 2012
266
Catalina 30 TRBS MkII Milwaukee
Congratulations on the "new" boat, and welcome to the site.
The mast is down, as others have said, hopefully you may not need to un-step the mast for some time after you are rigged. I would definitely consider replacing that fore stay, much easier with the rig down.
You may want to re-lamp the mast head light with an LED. Do you think you may want a wind instrument? Inspect and perhaps change out the halyard sheaves, I have installed a new sheave with bearings for the main halyard, as opposed to original and can hoist the main darn near to the top by hand.
How is the coax and antenna, check the condition of the pl-259 connector and coax, perhaps just cutting a few inches off and re-terminating the connector?
Hope you find these suggestions helpful. Good Luck, and enjoy the boat.
 
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Apr 5, 2009
1,285
Catalina '88 C30 tr/bs Oak Harbor, WA
I replaced all of the standing rigging on my C30 when it was about 25 years old. I desided on a complete re-rig even though I could find nothing wrong with it because I like to go sailing when the wind is blowing hard. I ordered everything from Catalina Direct. I replaced all rigging, tangs and chainplates with the exception of the lower chainplates. Those I removed and had inspected. Much happier now and don't spend as much time worring about the pointy thing pointing upward. :dancing:
 
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Jun 25, 2004
1,087
Corsair F24 Mk1 003 San Francisco Bay, CA
Hello friends! I've been sailing my whole life but just purchased my first cruising sailboat, a 1991 Cat30 mkii tall rig! I will be using this for freshwater lake cruising with my family of 4. Having just transported it from out of state to my local lake in GA, I wanted to take care of some deferred maintenance while she's on the hard. While I have had experience in many areas of sailboat repair and maintenance, one area where I'm a total newbie is the standing rigging. I was hoping someone here could offer some advice regarding my forestay and clevis at the masthead. The forestay seems to be in poor shape (untwisting) near the swage at the masthead, and the clevis appears to have been beat up somehow. I'm including some photos for your reference. Do I need to replace the forestay entirely, along with the clevis pin? or does this seem repairable? If the former, are these parts what I will need?

1) forestay kit: https://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm/product/2053/forestay-trim-2-fit-stud-c-30.cfm

2) masthead clevis pin: https://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm/product/2739/c-30-c-34-c-36-masthead-clevis-pin.cfm

Also, is it ok for me to just replace the forestay and not the backstay & shrouds too?
Thanks in advance for any advice / direction!!! I greatly appreciate it and look forward to participating on the forum! Thanks in advance for your guidance!
Hi Elliot,

That picture of the upper forestay looks bad. There is no doubt that it's time to replace it.

The 1) forestay kit looks like a good kit. You could source the parts yourself for a lower price, but it will cost you time and effort. Your mast is already down, and that's an easy job, if you're a good Do-it-yourselfer.

It's not clear to me that why you want to get the 2) masthead clevis pin, 1/2" x 2.25". It's not for attaching the toggle to the eye of the upper swage. It's too long and too big in diameter for that.

upload_2018-3-15_10-12-30.png


As for buying new shrouds and backstay: I would do it if I were in your shoes. But at the very least, replace that forestay. It's "an accident waiting to happen". The wires in that shroud have been bent and flexed and they are now brittle and will break soon.

If it were my boat, I would prefer to know for certain that my mast, shrouds, chain plates and bulkheads are all in great conditions. Those are the things that hold up the mast. If I had just bought a 25 year old boat, I would diassemble, inspect and fix any problems found. Then do an annual inspection after that, looking for metal corrosion, wear, and wood rot (leaks) .

I did that to my 25 year old Catalina 27 when I bought it in 2003. I found hidden problems that I repaired/rebuilt. It was worth the peace of mind to me to spend the time. There are a couple of pages about the mast at http://www.blumhorst.com/catalina27/catalinahomepage.htm

My advice would be to inspect the boat for safety and then sail it for a season before you start modifying/replacing anything else. That way you can set priorities.
 
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Oct 22, 2014
13,435
CAL 35 Cruiser moored EVERETT WA
@elliotth27 Welcome to the forum. You will find knowledgeable and efficient folks here who share a passion for sailing and your Catalina as well.
I agree with the statements above that it is better to be safe then sorry when your rigging is involved. Assumptions... Your boat is still using the rigging installed in 1991. If you are unsure then it is a safe assumption. You care about your family and your safe enjoyment of the boat out sailing. You are unable to control the weather so there maybe a wind storm event that catches you under sail.
Any and all of the above are the reasons we change out old standing rigging for new. Note that even "New" rigging is no guarantee but it is much much better than the alternative.
Choices... DIY or pay a rigger.
If you have the time and are willing to make the investment in doing the rigging right... DIY. Nothing says "I know my rigging", like having completed the work yourself.
If DIY is not your thing, then search out a good rigger. Trust he/she will do a proper job. Verify/inspect the work frequently. You will learn the secrets and be able to DIY in the future.
While freshwater sailing is better than Salt water on the rigging, cruising puts less strain than racing, and Northern latitudes are easier on the rigging then southern, all rigging ages.
Inspect all of the parts, sheaves, wires, swages, fittings etc. Remove. Clean. Inspect. Replace/reinstall.
RiggingOnly.com Catalina Store SBO store are all good sources.
 
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Mar 14, 2018
3
Catalina 30 mkII Lake Lanier, GA
Well first of all thank you everyone for the amazing responses!
Here's an update.
I decided to go ahead and replace all of the stays & shrouds and have it all professionally installed by a rigger. I ordered all of the parts from catalinadirect.com. He's offered to allow me to observe/assist which I think will be an awesome learning experience. DrJudyB, you are right regarding the clevis - I actually ordered both new toggles (forestay & backstay) and pins instead. Captcoho, I replaced the masthead anchor light with a brand new housing assembly & LED for $11.95 (pics attached). I'm also considering replacing the mid-mast steaming light/deck light assembly and converting to LED - need to look into options there (let me know if you have any suggestions). Yes I would love to add a wind instrument - I actually already have the old 'Autohelm' instrument display on the binnacle (pic attached), including the wind direction/speed instrument, but no masthead transponder. I found a great article here that says my old display will work with the Raymarine ST60 windvane transducer (acquired the Autohelm brand), but $350 for the vane, Ouch! Perhaps I can find a used one. If not, will save that for a later upgrade, as the analog vane I have is sufficient for my lake cruising purposes.
This week I also solved a few other issues. Helm was squeaking badly which sounded like it was coming from the rudder. I began the process to drop the rudder, but luckily, just washing out the manual tiller compartment did the trick! A lot of mud and grime was in there and working it's way around the rudder shaft, and also clogging up the drain from that compartment - a thorough rinse fixed the squeak and cleared the drain. Also, I had an active interior leak dripping under the steering pedestal from the pedestal bolts into the aft berth. I was able to disassemble the pedestal enough to lift it and add a bead of sealant, then replace. After a few heavy rains, no more leak and bilge is dry! When replacing the pedestal bolts, I added some rubber o-rings beneath the bolt head which helped create a nice sealing gasket where the bolt-head sits in the pedestal base. The prior owner had made a big mess of things with caulking in the boltholes and around the base of the pedestal, which I painstakingly picked out. Hull has been sanded, waxed, and buffed and looking great (pics). I can't believe what a difference that made!!! Blisters repaired, and bottom paint going on today & tomorrow. Interior carpet (no teak sole in mine) has been removed for steam cleaning, all interior fiberglass areas have been scrubbed to remove mildew/mold, and a three handsome weems & plath instruments were hung on the bulkheads - really classes up the place ;) Will post some interior pics soon. Lastly, the teak seat transom insert (my mkii has the walk-through transom) was sanded down and oiled, and boy does it look better! The ordered standing rigging arrives this Thursday and hopefully will have this gal in the water sometime next week! Phew, there's something painful about having a boat on the hard, but once all this work is done it will be worth it! I've got several other repair and upgrade projects lined up which can wait until she's splashed. Next up, engine service and topsides (cockpit and deck) polish/buff. Any advice on buffing the topsides? products, tools, considerations? Any nifty tips on engine service? It's a tricky space to work in, that engine compartment! Thanks everyone! the photos below where she's in the water were taken at Lake Murray, SC the day I had her hauled to be transported to Lake Lanier, GA, earlier this month.
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Ward H

.
Nov 7, 2011
2,729
Catalina 30 Mk II Barnegat, NJ
@elliotth27
A belated welcome to the forum. That hull shined up real nice. Looks like your getting it into great shape. Interested in the interior photos when you can post them.
I'm working on my 93 I purchased in Nov. Looks like a sister boat to yours.
Enjoy!
 
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Apr 5, 2009
1,285
Catalina '88 C30 tr/bs Oak Harbor, WA
For buffing the smooth areas of your deck use the same technique that you used on the topsides. A 2" mini buffer is handy, but you can get by with just a 3" head on your big buffer. For the non-skid use the coarse compound followed by a medium fine compound. No need to go to something very fine like Finesse-it II for the non-skid. Use a hook and loop scrub brush to buff / compound the non-skid. Follow it up with Johnny's Wax on the non-skid for a no-slip surface.

https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guy...522093980&sr=8-2&keywords=hook+and+loop+brush
https://www.amazon.com/Woody-Wax/pr..._d_hist_5?filterByStar=five_star&pageNumber=1
 
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