Fix the Fixed Ports

pateco

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Aug 12, 2014
2,207
Hunter 31 (1983) Pompano Beach FL
In an older closed thread Fixed port repair Steve Deon wrote:
I got this information from the Hunter 31-34 list, courtsey of Roger Mummah.I made some phone calls today to try to break the code on getting replacements for the fixed ports on a Hunter 31. Other Hunter models have similar ports so I thought this info might be helpful, especially for those of us who own the more mature boats. There are as far as I can tell, three parts to the port: The frame (aluminum or plastic), the Acrylic plastic stuff and the rubber gasket material. My ports (H31, 1983, hull #58) are approximately 7 1/2" high, bottom deminsion (one closest to the water) is approximately 44" and the top deminsion (one closest to the sky) is approximately 29". I am told the material is 1/4" Acrylic. I was helped by Joe Kerr (Customer Service & Warranty x3038) and Mike Thomas (Retail Sales x3015) at Hunter Marine (800)771-5556. Both are very helpful if they are asked resonable questions. Evidently the first ports for the boats had aluminum frames made by Go Industries. Go went! No longer available. Go was evidently bought buy, or replaced by Mark Plastics, 369 East Harrison St. #G, Corona, CA 91719. I spoke with Mark Heacox who is the Mark in Mark Plastics. He said Hunter switched to a plastic frames at some point and that is what he can supply. To get the windows, one needs to call Mark at (909)735-7705 to discuss measurements because he said no two boats are exactly alike. He can also talk about enlarging the size of the port. His ports are complete assemblies. As I said, they have plastic frames and they are $180 each plus packaging and shipping. He said if 3 or so people order at the same time he can offer a discount of 20%. So that's $360 + packaging and shipping. I called a local plastic company and they said the material (Acrylic - bronze or grey tint - 1/4" thick) 44" x 8" would cost $20 each, not counting any labor. Labor to cut the stuff must be quoted after they see the original piece. That means I pull the entire assembly, get the Acrylic piece out and take the whole pile of stuff to them. They don't install the Acrylic and they have no idea where to get the rubber gasket stuff. So we're talking $40 for two pieces of Acrylic that I may be able to cut and install myself. I called another shop that claims to be big in the marine business. They quoted me approximately $17 per window and $25 labor, for a total of $84. That still leaves me with the challenge of finding the rubber stuff and installing the Acrylic in the frame. $84 is still way better than $360 (unless perhaps if one uses "the new math"). Tasks still to be accomplished: 1. Talk to a real boat port repair guy. I lost his card, but will try to find him. Maybe he can tell me about the rubber. 2. Find out where to get the rubber stuff. Any body got any hints as to how to find it? One more thing? I think I remember seeing Hunter 31's, 34's and 40's that had/have the Acrylic fastened to the outside of the cabin. The Acrylic folks said this is much stronger because they use 1/2" material instead of 1/4" and additional strength is provided by the overlap of the Acrylic around the perimeter of the cabin opening. The Acrylic would have to be sealed and a pretty trim piece would have to be fabricated on the inside to hide the core between the inside and outside layers of fiberglass. Any ideas? Any information regarding replacing these ports would be appreciated by at least me, and I suspect others. Any help on the newer models that may or may not have the Acrylic screwed to the outside of the cabin would be appreciated - especially stuff like, has it really been done that way - how thick is the Acrylic, how is it mounted and sealed, and what is used to trim the inside of the port frame opening.
I am looking to do this same project on my 1983 H31 asap due to leaks, and was wondering how your repair went, and if you refurbished the aluminum frames and resealed, or if you replaced with the new Plastic frames?
 
Last edited:

pateco

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Aug 12, 2014
2,207
Hunter 31 (1983) Pompano Beach FL
Anyone else who has done this, please let me know how you did it. I have the Aluminum framed fixed ports.
 

pateco

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Aug 12, 2014
2,207
Hunter 31 (1983) Pompano Beach FL

HMT2

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Mar 20, 2014
899
Hunter 31 828 Shoreacres, TX
Pateco,

I did this about a year ago on my '83 H31. I did pretty much what Richard did, (nice write up Richard!) but I used 1000 grit sandpaper and just cleaned up/polished the aluminum frames. They were not painted, so I did not paint them. I also chose to upgrade to Lexan instead of just acrylic because it is literally bullet proof. Much harder than a regular acrylic. I had a local glass company duplicate the old acrylic but in Lexan. I also used Boat Life- Life Seal (don't use Life caulk, it is not safe for Lexan) I put a bead in the frame and set the Lexan in and placed some weight on the Lexan while the Life Seal cured. Then used the Life Seal to glaze the outside of the Lexan to the frame.

The way my frames were, the outside frame was everything and the inside frame is really in essence a trim piece. While you have the frame open check the core around your frame for any rot and repair that while it's open. Good luck! PM me if you have any questions.
 
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Jun 3, 2004
890
Hunter 34 Toronto, Ontario Canada
Thanks for the compliments folks!. I decided to paint the frames purely for looks. No reason why you couldnt leave them unpainted. As an update- the windows still look good- both frames and plexi. No leaks even after being lifted in and out of the water every year.
 
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Nov 6, 2006
9,975
Hunter 34 Mandeville Louisiana
Slight Hi-jack: Who in the H-34 group posted his replacement of the two H-34 fixed lights with one long pane of plexi, painting the separator black to make the portlight look continuous..?? I searched a lot and can't find the post.
 
Jan 22, 2008
1,659
Hunter 34 Alameda CA
Slight Hi-jack: Who in the H-34 group posted his replacement of the two H-34 fixed lights with one long pane of plexi, painting the separator black to make the portlight look continuous..?? I searched a lot and can't find the post.
Claude,

And that would be Me. Its buried under the Owner Modifications for the H34. Here is the link:
http://hunter.sailboatowners.com/mods.php?task=article&mid=31&aid=8052&mn=34

We are still happy with the result. After four years (this September) we finally did the starboard side. It is a relatively easy project. I have lots more pictures available now that we learned a couple of things before the second installation. Those little clips I used....not necessary.

Allan
 
Nov 6, 2006
9,975
Hunter 34 Mandeville Louisiana
Thanks MUCH, Allan! I thought you had done it but I searched all over and didn't find the post.. I may do that one this year.. before I do, I will definitely talk to you to get current on it.. Again, Thanks!
 

pateco

.
Aug 12, 2014
2,207
Hunter 31 (1983) Pompano Beach FL
Pateco,

I did this about a year ago on my '83 H31. I did pretty much what Richard did, (nice write up Richard!) but I used 1000 grit sandpaper and just cleaned up/polished the aluminum frames. They were not painted, so I did not paint them. I also chose to upgrade to Lexan instead of just acrylic because it is literally bullet proof. Much harder than a regular acrylic. I had a local glass company duplicate the old acrylic but in Lexan. I also used Boat Life- Life Seal (don't use Life caulk, it is not safe for Lexan) I put a bead in the frame and set the Lexan in and placed some weight on the Lexan while the Life Seal cured. Then used the Life Seal to glaze the outside of the Lexan to the frame.

The way my frames were, the outside frame was everything and the inside frame is really in essence a trim piece. While you have the frame open check the core around your frame for any rot and repair that while it's open. Good luck! PM me if you have any questions.
HTM2,

I ordered some Bed-It Butyl tape last Friday, and am thinking of using that to bed between the acrylic and the frame. I was then going to seal the outside edges with a filet of gray 795 to sort of match the aluminum frame color. What Color 795 did you use? Do you have any pictures of the final result?

Also, my acrylic panes seem to be in OK shape they're just leaking around the frames. While I have them apart should I replace them with new, or just reuse the existing ones. I even have one new spare pane already cut in a box under one of the berths.
 

HMT2

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Mar 20, 2014
899
Hunter 31 828 Shoreacres, TX
HTM2,

I ordered some Bed-It Butyl tape last Friday, and am thinking of using that to bed between the acrylic and the frame. I was then going to seal the outside edges with a filet of gray 795 to sort of match the aluminum frame color. What Color 795 did you use? Do you have any pictures of the final result?

Also, my acrylic panes seem to be in OK shape they're just leaking around the frames. While I have them apart should I replace them with new, or just reuse the existing ones. I even have one new spare pane already cut in a box under one of the berths.
Pateco,

My acrylic was pretty crazed so we chose to replace it with Lexan. Ours was tinted kind of smoke gray so we went back with as close a match as we could. We did not use Dow 795, we used Boat Life-Boat Seal and I used black to blend into the Lexan. This is the only picture I can find.
IMG_2136.JPG
 
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pateco

.
Aug 12, 2014
2,207
Hunter 31 (1983) Pompano Beach FL
Pateco,

My acrylic was pretty crazed so we chose to replace it with Lexan. Ours was tinted kind of smoke gray so we went back with as close a match as we could. We did not use Dow 795, we used Boat Life-Boat Seal and I used black to blend into the Lexan. This is the only picture I can find. View attachment 119291
Looks good. I think I will polish and not paint.
 
Mar 20, 2011
623
Hunter 31_83-87 New Orleans
My 84 H31 had the plastic frames. After unsuccessfully attempting to reseal the plastic frames I ordered exact replacements from Mark Plastics in Corona Ca. Google the contact details. He has the molds to make the exact fit for this model Hunter. Good luck, Jerry
 

pateco

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Aug 12, 2014
2,207
Hunter 31 (1983) Pompano Beach FL
So I Started on the first one yesterday afternoon.

2016-02-14 15.46.33.jpg


You can see how cracked an brittle the latest sealant has become, including evidence of a major leak dripping from the bottom

2016-02-14 15.46.57.jpg


So I first took off the inside trim. Cracked and nasty sealant is readily apparent.

2016-02-14 16.40.30.jpg


Then I took off the outside frame with the Plexiglas. It looks like three different type of sealant have been used without proper prep before each one.

2016-02-14 17.09.09.jpg
 

pateco

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Aug 12, 2014
2,207
Hunter 31 (1983) Pompano Beach FL
Right after I removed the outside of the port, I tried to scrape off some of the biggest chunks of old sealant with a razor scraper. But then, in full compliance with Murphy's Law, it started to rain and I had to cover up with plastic sheeting.

Today I went back to try to get the remainder of the sealant off and to get the opening cleaned up. There is clear Silicone, Gray Silicone, and some kind of white sealer that reminds me of bathroom caulk

2016-02-15 18.54.22.jpg


I used a razor scraper and got as much of it off as I could easily.

2016-02-15 18.54.26.jpg

2016-02-15 19.25.20.jpg


And then I used my Harbor Freight Fein tool with 80 Grit sanding pads to get the rest off

2016-02-15 19.47.55.jpg

2016-02-15 19.46.11.jpg


Now before I move forward, I need to reattach the inner skin to the plywood core, but I have a question. The space between the core and the inner skin was gooped with lots of old Silicone sealant. I have tried to remove as much as I can but there is no way I will be able to get it all out. If I use epoxy with clamps to squeeze this back together, do you think the epoxy will hold satisfactorily, or will the silicone make this futile?
 

HMT2

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Mar 20, 2014
899
Hunter 31 828 Shoreacres, TX
I had some good luck with a silicone remover I got from Lowes or Home Depot. Your plywood looks pretty good but I would sure double check for any rot in the plywood all around. I would sure give the epoxy a try. WM has a putty type epoxy that might be helpful in this application. I would also use a shop vac to suck out anything you can befor you epoxy. http://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-marine--epoxy-stick--3761483
 
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Jul 1, 2014
252
Hunter 34 Seattle
Now before I move forward, I need to reattach the inner skin to the plywood core, but I have a question. The space between the core and the inner skin was gooped with lots of old Silicone sealant. I have tried to remove as much as I can but there is no way I will be able to get it all out. If I use epoxy with clamps to squeeze this back together, do you think the epoxy will hold satisfactorily, or will the silicone make this futile?
I think a rule of thumb is nothing will stick to old silicone. My openings were the same - it looked like someone went in and filled the plywood delamination with silicone. Ugh. The silicone really doesn't stick very well to the plywood or fiberglass so I dug out everything I could get with various tools and a shop vacuum until I thought I had 95% removed then filled with epoxy and clamped. Good luck.
 

pateco

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Aug 12, 2014
2,207
Hunter 31 (1983) Pompano Beach FL
OK I have another question. I got a quote of $260 to media blast prime and powder coat the frames with marine powder coating. Would you do that, or strip the old paint (most of it is already off of the exterior frames), sand, buff, and polish the bare aluminum. Any other Suggestions are also appreciated.

Fixed Port 2.png
 
Jul 1, 2014
252
Hunter 34 Seattle
I'd be curious to hear others response but I also thought about options. I looked at cleaning up and leaving raw aluminum but was concerned it might not weather too well in the marine environment. I also looked into powder coating and even anodizing but in the end decided to paint as the easiest solution. You need to use a special primer for aluminum.

I think powder coating would be great, I really just didn't want to spend the extra money. That probably shouldn't have been the biggest consideration given the amount of time it took to do the project but there are so many other things my boat wants me to spend money on....