Rebuilding H34 Fixed Portlights

[Charlie98117]

I am finally getting around to rebuilding the fixed portlights on my H34. The boat is an '83 so I have the aluminum frame version. Got everything removed yesterday and cleaned up so I can see what I've got to work with.

The frame is basically a Z shape that has a notch to receive the plastic glazing retainers the factory used, I am amazed they designed it that way from the factory. I am planning to use 1/2" acrylic that will be just shy of flush with the outside and Dow 795 to seal it up.

However, to set the acrylic in the frame I am wondering if I should use butyl tape. The factory used neoprene glazing tape (see photo) but seems like I read somewhere butyl tape the best approach. Any thoughts?

 

[Allan12210]

Under Owner Resources>>Owner Modifications>> 34 (top of this page) you will find a couple of write ups regarding the fixed windows. This one is probably pertinent to your project.

http://hunter.sailboatowners.com/in...mid=267&cat_id=31&aid=7772&page=article&mn=34

 

[Charlie98117]

Under Owner Resources>>Owner Modifications>> 34 (top of this page) you will find a couple of write ups regarding the fixed windows. This one is probably pertinent to your project.

Thanks Allan, I did read that one and that must have been where I read about setting the acrylic in butyl. I like his method but I will be increasing the gap between the acrylic and frame to 3/16" to give a bit more room for expansion and contraction.

Also trying to figure out the easiest way to remove all the silicone residue so I can paint. Actually I was considering if I should paint at all. I don't seem to detect any existing finish on the frame. Wondering if raw aluminum was the finish and if so, maybe it's best left that way.

 

[Allan12210]

It was probably anodized aluminum originally. Some folks have had them powder coated. You could just polish them up real nice and apply a spray on clear overcoat that would protect them.

Take a look in that same Owner Modifications section for my write up on the fixed windows. I used some 3/8" butyl for setting car windshields. That could be what you need. It can easily be compressed to 3/16" and allow for expansion. I presume your gap is around the perimeter and the replacement glass is going to float within the frame?

 

[Charlie98117]

I was thinking it could have been an anodized finish, seems like raw aluminum would have have more corrosion than I see. I see no color change at the welds which makes me think there is color in the coating but in any case, it's in decent shape and I like the clear coating idea.

I will need to do some edge buildup and repair as you describe, I also had a small bit of wet wood at the center of the aft light port that will need to be hogged out and filled. I was not too impressed with the holes cut by the factory. One is a bit oversize and a couple of the exterior screws were not hitting anything, I will build up this area with epoxy to correct.

I also had the interior skin pulled away from the wood core exactly as you describe. It looked like this had happened before and caused the plywood core to separate. The PO pulled out the portlights and filled these gaps in the core with silicone resulting in extra thickness that was resolved with more silicone at the interior frame. Quite a mess to clean up. I too will need every clamp I own to get this pulled back into line.

 

[Richard Bryer]

You are right about the factory cut holes- folks like that are a REAL menace with a Sawzall!
I had to clamp and epoxy several places.

It has been something like 7 years now I think and everything is still like the day I did it. The paint on the frames is holding up very well.

 

[HMT2]

Charlie 98177,

I did this repair on my 1983 Hunter 31. Same aluminum frames. For a few dollars more I went with Lexan. It is much stronger than acrylic. I used Life Seal ( or Life Caulk, I can't remember which one. It one of them says do not use it on Lexan) to bed the Lexan in the frame then used it to glaze it as well.

Good luck

 

[Charlie98117]

After nearly a month of working on it when I had time I am finally about ready to put rebuilt portlights back in the boat. It took longer that I had hoped but that's usually how projects go and I feel good about doing it right.

I pretty much just followed Richard's example from the Owner Modifications section except I used a 3/16" perimeter gap to give a slightly larger joint for the 795. I will repeat his comment on the importance of removing all old silicone. I spent much more time digging and scraping the old silicone than Richard admitted to and I thought I had it but I can see a couple spots in the paint where there was still a bit of residue.

I got the acrylic pieces cut to size from a paper patterns by the local supply house for just a "few dollars more" but pretty sure it was worth not having to cut it up myself.

Fixing the cutouts in the cabin was another case of things taking more time than I had hoped. My boat had suffered some core delamination around the openings and the PO filled the delamination voids with silicone and put it back together. I removed all the old silicone and started over.

After digging out a couple small areas that were soft I first filled all the voids with epoxy and clamped it to relaminate it and create a uniform wall thickness. The frame and trim want a uniform 3/4" so that was the goal.

After that dried I came back with a epoxy filler and filled the hollowed out soft spots and leveled out the opening. One of the sloping sides was cut too large by the factory and the screws didn't really grab anything so I built it out too. Did a test fit last night and everything looked great.

Today I set the glazing and filled it up with 795. The forecast for tomorrow says rain so it might have to wait a few days to set the frames on the boat but I'm getting close. I am anxious to stop working on the boat and start sailing her again!

 

[pateco]

Today I set the glazing and filled it up with 795. The forecast for tomorrow says rain so it might have to wait a few days to set the frames on the boat but I'm getting close. I am anxious to stop working on the boat and start sailing her again!

I see you used the Gray 795. How do you think it turned out. I am trying to decide between Gray or Black 795 for the outside. I will use white 795 for the frame to hull joint.

 

[Richard Bryer]

Those look good, Charlie- you will be very pleased with the look of your boat when you have these installed.

 

[Charlie98117]

I see you used the Gray 795. How do you think it turned out. I am trying to decide between Gray or Black 795 for the outside. I will use white 795 for the frame to hull joint.

I decided on grey because I thought it would be better to match the frame. As it turns out the 795 grey is a much lighter shade than the frame. My gut reaction after I finished was should have used black but I've gotten used to it and even sort of like the pinstripe effect. Also, I used butyl tape from MaineSail (http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/buy_bedit_butyl_tape) for seating the acrylic glazing into the frame and for the frame to fiberglass joint. I think that is a better choice than silicone for this and just about anything else on a boat. Filling the joint between the acrylic and frame is about the only place I would ever use silly cone. Just finishing up a northwest winter with no tarp and no leaks.

 

[Charlie98117]

Those look good, Charlie- you will be very pleased with the look of your boat when you have these installed.

Thanks Richard. This is actually an old thread that got resuscitated. They are installed and I am indeed pleased.

 

[pateco]

I decided on grey because I thought it would be better to match the frame. As it turns out the 795 grey is a much lighter shade than the frame. My gut reaction after I finished was should have used black but I've gotten used to it and even sort of like the pinstripe effect. Also, I used butyl tape from MaineSail (http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/buy_bedit_butyl_tape) for seating the acrylic glazing into the frame and for the frame to fiberglass joint. I think that is a better choice than silicone for this and just about anything else on a boat. Filling the joint between the acrylic and frame is about the only place I would ever use silly cone. Just finishing up a northwest winter with no tarp and no leaks.
View attachment 119344 View attachment 119345

My mainsail Bed-It Butyl tape is on its way. Did you fill and re-drill the screw holes, or just goop them up with 795 before reattaching?

 

[HMT2]

We actually used butyl tape on the screws. Here is link to Sailrite that talks about it.

 

[Charlie98117]

My mainsail Bed-It Butyl tape is on its way. Did you fill and re-drill the screw holes, or just goop them up with 795 before reattaching?

If you look at MaineSail's site here there is a bedding tape how-to that says the same thing about bedding the screw, just put a countersink on the screw holes and use butyl on the screw head. There were a couple screw holes on my installation that were a bit sloppy and probably should have been filled and redrilled but I did not.