Hard to know for sure from the OP, but I assume there is a plan to tent the boat with clear shrinkwrap?
Yes, it helps quite a bit during the day. It helps a little bit at night. If nothing else, it helps prevent the air circulating over the deck. I'll be doing that again this year too. I was more questioning how to better insulate inside the boat.
You can get clear shrink film that uses double sided tape on the frames and creates a double pane window which helps a lot for condensation for all hatches and ports. Big box stores carry plenty of variants by 3M.
Electric heat has no moisture which helps. Is there an extra 110v outlet on the pedestal where you can pull another 15 amps for a third heater via a heavy duty power cord?
Your comforters on deck will probably get wet and loose effectiveness. Consider attic insulation rolls you can roll out on deck and perhaps cover with thin plastic sheet.
I bubble-wrapped the portholes and that stopped the condensation which I presume means it insulated them enough to be effective.
I'll be using the 30AMP and 50AMP (with a 30 AMP converter) to run both the heaters (and the dehumidifier as needed). Those are the only two connections on the post. It was enough last year to keep the interior safe, but I'd like it to be a bit more comfortable with added insulation.
The comforters mostly stayed dry. Only getting wet where the stays went through the plastic. Still not sure how effective they were. But the good thing is that I can just wrap them up and store them once it warms back up. Insulation rolls seem problematic - tiny shards of glass all over the deck, and hard to store again. Maybe in some key interior spaces?
Get the diesel heater (espar?) fixed. Most likely candidate is fuel pump, glowplug screen, glowplug. Be very careful of those space heater - fire risk. Even the well known names are cheap Chinese junk. Never run at full wattage (e.g. run at 1000watts not 1500w). Buy new every year. Regularly check inside boat wiring and inside outlets - change at first sign of warmth or scorch marks at a plug. Polish shore power cable contacts and work electrical contact cleaner into plug. Make sure it twists and locks firmly. If you don’t like the look of the marina outlet have them service it before winter.
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I'm not sure I get the exchanger. It seems more like it's designed to keep the air fresh rather than keep the place warm. If anything, it seems like they help cool it down, just not as much as leaving the shrink wrap door open.
And yes, I'm trying to get the local rockstar electrician to give my wiring a once-over, but he's elusive.
Press 3/4” styrofoam against inside hull to stop condensation on cold hull.
I bought 4 pieces of 4' x 8' x 1" R-5 polystyrene insulation. I'm unsure of how best to apply it. There's a handful of spots where I can cut a piece and put it somewhat flush against the hull. but I was thinking it might be promoting condensation behind the board in the air that's less heated and that seems like another problem. Unless I can somehow make it fairly air-tight.
But I was also thinking it would be nice to line the irregular surfaces too, and I can't imagine cutting board to fit that. So maybe just put board over it and leave a 1" to 2" space behind it and deal with condensation.
Also, carpeting is good idea. (I can't find who said it) and I'll be doing that for my sole. I also have some foam floor tiles (the kind you find at the weight bench at your gym) which is probably at least R-3 and might do better than carpeting.
But I think my main concern is just how to get insulation into all the many irregular spaces and if anything shy of permanently bonded air-tight insulation is going to be a bad idea.
Thank you for the tips!
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