Engine room vinyl coated foam is peeling

[BigEasy]

The vinyl coated foam liner that surrounds my engine compartment is peeling. Combination of age & heat is undoubtedly the cause. The foam insulation appears to be intact. Not sure of the purpose of the vinyl; possibly to prevent microscopic foam particles from being injested into the engine intake or just a reflective barrier. In any event, it’s making a mess. First thought is to simply use a vacuum cleaner to remove the vinyl. Not going to replace the foam at this point in time; however, will no doubt have to replace it in future. My questions are, have any of you experienced this? Also, is there any spray coating in a can that can be used to apply new vinyl?

 

[dlochner]

The vinyl is probably there to prevent oil and grease from impregnating the foam. Helps to keep the diesel and exhaust odor down.

After a few trips where motoring trumps sailing, you'll want that sound insulation back.

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

Amazing. Looks more like adhesed green garbage bags.

I agree that some form of spray on paint is your best bet. Be careful as many paints say : DO NOT USE ON PLASTIC

 

[BigEasy]

After a few trips where motoring trumps sailing, you'll want that sound insulation back.

Agree! Not removing the foam, just the vinyl coating. Too much noise & heat without the foam insulation.

 

[BigEasy]

Amazing. Looks more like adhesed green garbage bags.

Ralph, this stuff is much thinner than a plastic bag & is super flexible. You can remove it by simply running your hand over the surface & vacuuming. Don’t want this sloughing off & going into intake air filter. Would be nice to spray a new vinyl coating.

 

[BigEasy]

For all you Beneteau owners, expect this minor nuisance at the 15-16 year period.

 

[jssailem]

I suspect they used vinyl to make the product look clean and address the issue of open-celled foam.

Here are one source's observations and suggestions.

Can You Paint Spray Foam Insulation? Here are Some Recommendations for You

Discover if you can paint spray foam insulation and learn the best practices, materials, and techniques to achieve a professional finish while maintaining insulation efficiency.

insulationline.com

 

[Tally Ho]

My foam had a different layer of stuff on the outside, but also failed and was a real mess (30 years old or so).

My solution was to encapsulate the foam using Reflexite insulation. I sealed edges with some aluminum duct tape and stapled the Reflexite right over the old foam. This “locked” in the foam and the backing that was peeling and added another layer of insulation and sound barrier.

I installed this stuff 8 years ago, and still working great.

Greg

 

[BigEasy]

My solution was to encapsulate the foam using Reflexite insulation.

Great idea Greg & a video to boot! Will investigate reflexite further.

 

[Tally Ho]

Great idea Greg & a video to boot! Will investigate reflexite further.

I guess it is called Refectix….



I also use this to make sun shades for my hatches and port lights.

Greg

 

[TheZ3]

Just bought a roll tonight to use as an undelayemnt for the new vinyl wall covering that's going in tomorrow in the berths. The black foam backed vinyl fell down when the foam turned to powder...fun.
I love the idea of solving the engine room issue as well..I may need more. We will post pics once complete.

 

[Scott T-Bird]

My solution was to encapsulate the foam using Reflexite insulation. I sealed edges with some aluminum duct tape and stapled the Reflexite right over the old foam. This “locked” in the foam and the backing that was peeling and added another layer of insulation and sound barrier.

I installed this stuff 8 years ago, and still working great.

How do you attach that product? It looks like there are buttons that puncture through the foam to secure it. I'm reluctant to add fasteners since the insulation on my boat was original secured only with adhesive.

The foam on my 2 engine covers disintegrated so I removed all of it that was damaged when I brought the boat home. We lived without insulation until I decided to replace it this summer. I put a self-adhered product (1" thickness) on with hopes that it lasts. We will see. I saw the Reflectix product at Home Depot and did not choose it because the thin product didn't look like it would insulate sound. The product description seems only to reference heat insulation. I suppose it is most effective when installed over a sound insulation product.

I think I might give it a try over the product that I already installed. I'm thinking velcro buttons may work for attachment.

 

[FastOlson]

Just a guess, but is the OP's boat about 15 years old? If so, it's a modern boat with some real market value. IF.... you start doing obvious kluges like spraying paint over failing insulation, this will potentially come back to haunt you when you sell it someday. Far better to make an annual (winter?) project out of this problem. Move the engine out, typically into the cabin for a month or two. Clean up the whole engine compartment. scrape out the old foam and glue residue. Install new foil-surfaced engine/sound-deadening foam and seal all the edges with silver mylar tape. Use mechanical fastenings to secure it firmly for another 50 years. Use this project as an opportunity to upgrade any hoses, wiring, etc, etc around the engine. And, clean up the engine itself and do any servicing that is easy when it's out of its cave.

I did this for our '88 boat, in 2018. Also... Decided to install a new Betamarine25, while I was at it.... MUCH quieter now, with a current-tech drive train. I reformatted the fuel delivery system, and upgraded all the wiring in that area. New exhaust system, and vent system, Hobbs meter, and new Halon warning light, also.

Strictly IMHO, you have a "right sized" boat for long term ownership and enjoyment. Better to make it even better while maintaining/improving both its value for your own enjoyment and hedging against a potential loss of value in the future if you decide to sell.
If you want a link to my blog entries showing this project, please let me know. While a larger project like this is 'work' it's very satisfying work.

Good luck!

 

[dlochner]

In an engine room, you want to get the heat out and keep the sound in. That presents a dilemma, if the room is designed to get the heat out, the sound goes with it. If designed to keep the sound it, it also keeps the heat in. You can get a cool noisy engine or a quiet hot engine.

Adding a product like Reflex insulation, the stuff that looks like mylar bubble wrap, will offer no significant sound attenuation and will keep heat in the engine room. That heat causes soft parts, like hoses to deteriorate more quickly and alternators definitely like to run cool.

The stuff @Scott T-Bird mentioned, sounds like a product from Sailor's Solutions. I've used it in the past, it was easy to install and seemed work well.

In the good old days sound insulation was often a sheet of lead encased in foam. We're wiser now about the effects of lead.

 

[dLj]

To get a quiet, cool engine room, you need good sound insulation and good ventilation. Two separate systems. As @dlochner points out above, the same system can't do both.

Years ago I built several sound dampening systems with lead sheets sandwiched between foam. Maybe that's why I'm a lunatic! Hahaha
But it sure makes an excellent sound barrier...

dj

 

[dLj]

As a side note - the term "mad hatter" or " mad as a hatter" comes from the 19th century hat making industry. One of the steps in hat making was using a bath that contained mercury. The constant exposure to the mercury vapors caused mercury poisoning resulting in in many of the hat makers to become crazy - before it killed them...

The chimney cleaning industry was even more insidious...
dj

 

[Tally Ho]

How do you attach that product? It looks like there are buttons that puncture through the foam to secure it. I'm reluctant to add fasteners since the insulation on my boat was original secured only with adhesive.

The foam on my 2 engine covers disintegrated so I removed all of it that was damaged when I brought the boat home. We lived without insulation until I decided to replace it this summer. I put a self-adhered product (1" thickness) on with hopes that it lasts. We will see. I saw the Reflectix product at Home Depot and did not choose it because the thin product didn't look like it would insulate sound. The product description seems only to reference heat insulation. I suppose it is most effective when installed over a sound insulation product.

I think I might give it a try over the product that I already installed. I'm thinking velcro buttons may work for attachment.

I used a large stapler in most places. I also used an aluminum tape to “seal” edges.

This kind of stapler, not a desk stapler...



I think that the buttons with the nail in the middle would go too deep. Most of the panels are pretty thin.

Greg