I keep a Hibachi in the engine compartment just for this purpose ... and making kebabs.
But, I'll bet that plow on the front is handy for docking.
Electric fuel pump to replace lift pump Yanmar 3GM30F
- Thread starter skunther
- Start date
But, I'll bet that plow on the front is handy for docking.
What is the best way to connect the pump to the secondary filter? Do I need to use metal braid reinforced high pressure fuel line with a banjo fitting to the secondary filter like what is currently downstream of the lift pump?
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 23,145
If I understand the sequence.
Fuel tank - Secondary filter - new electric pump - Engine pump - Engine filter (primary) - fuel lines to high-pressure pump.
Between the tank and the engine, the fuel lines are standard hoses rated for diesel fuel. You can make them fancy, but there is no need. Basic black hoses are normal. The fuel in the hoses before the engine is at low pressure.
The fuel lines from the high-pressure pump to the injectors are different. They must be able to handle the pressures of the high-pressure pump, and usually are solid metal
Fuel tank - Secondary filter - new electric pump - Engine pump - Engine filter (primary) - fuel lines to high-pressure pump.
Between the tank and the engine, the fuel lines are standard hoses rated for diesel fuel. You can make them fancy, but there is no need. Basic black hoses are normal. The fuel in the hoses before the engine is at low pressure.
The fuel lines from the high-pressure pump to the injectors are different. They must be able to handle the pressures of the high-pressure pump, and usually are solid metal
Can I connect the pump positive wire to anything ignition switched in the engine compartment other than the starter solenoid? The draw is less than the 3 amp fuse recommended. I saw somewhere 1.4amps.
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 23,145
You can connect to any power source. You might want to have a switch that permits you to control the pump. Since the pump will be running when you turn the engine on, most choose to include it in the engine power system such as the engine key switch (other than a temporary power going to the glow plugs).
The 3A fuse is intended to protect the pump as well as the wiring.
Absolutely. However, I wouldn't follow the installation instructions of connecting the pump in series with an oil pressure alarm switch.
In this arrangement, the fuel pump does not start until oil pressure is established. In your case, you want the fuel pump running before starting the engine and who knows, maybe it will assist in starting. Highly unlikely, but hope springs eternal. The oil press. alarm switch shuts down the fuel pump if the engine should die and the ignition keyed switch is unknowingly left in the run position. This is intended to prevent pumping fuel into an aspirated engine cylinder but not a fuel injected engine (think diesel) where any injector in good condition will prevent fuel flow under lift pump pressure.
My 4JH4AE is factory wired such that the pump starts when the ignition is on, engine running or not.
I just changed out the primary and secondary fuel filters. As somebody else noted earlier, purging the system after a filter change is another benefit of having the electric pump.
How do I bleed the system after installing the pump? I assume I should still use the bleeder screw on the secondary filter? Is it necessary to bleed further downstream?
...and, as Ralph noted about NOT using an oil pressure switch in the power to the pump, because it would be a way to defeat the great advantage of having an electric pump for BLEEDING.
FYI skippers Westerbeke and Universal actually added this oil pressure "trick" to their engine control system after the M25 and M25XP series, for the M30 and M35 for example. It created lots of bleeding headaches, which they argued by saying the newer engines were "self-bleeding." Bollocks, you still had to bleed the secondary engine mounted filter. Why? Because it was mounted vertically with no way to completely fill it up so it was necessary to bleed it via the screw at the top of the filter bracket.
I had to explain this to a fellow skipper as long ago as 2007! Yes, same concepts. Some bad ideas
never die...
Yup. It has that small chamber at the top of the body to accumulate air.
Nope. No way for air to get past the the small air chamber on the #2 filter.
So am I to wire directly from the keyed starter switch, or is there a more accessible power source in the engjne compartment?
Separate question, the only potential issue I see with the keyed power switch is that the pump will be running whether or not the engine is running, counter to what occurs with the mechanical lift pump. Could this potentially overpressurize the downstream fuel supply system? Is there no power supply option that would only power the pump while the engine is actually cranking/running?
Separate question, the only potential issue I see with the keyed power switch is that the pump will be running whether or not the engine is running, counter to what occurs with the mechanical lift pump. Could this potentially overpressurize the downstream fuel supply system? Is there no power supply option that would only power the pump while the engine is actually cranking/running?
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 23,145
Is there a reason to run the pump without the engine? Is fuel polishing possible? Then, you might want to use a separate switch for the electric fuel pump.
If the pump has a pressure cutoff and the fuel line pressures are within the specifications, then I do not see a problem.
Usually, the fuel pump moves fuel to the High-Pressure pump. The high-pressure pump accepts the supplied fuel, cuts off the excess, and drives the fuel at pressure to the injectors. There may be an unusual condition in which fuel leaks past the high-pressure pump, into the injectors, and out, the excess fuel returning to the filter or the tank through the fuel return lines.
It is the owner's call.
If the pump has a pressure cutoff and the fuel line pressures are within the specifications, then I do not see a problem.
Usually, the fuel pump moves fuel to the High-Pressure pump. The high-pressure pump accepts the supplied fuel, cuts off the excess, and drives the fuel at pressure to the injectors. There may be an unusual condition in which fuel leaks past the high-pressure pump, into the injectors, and out, the excess fuel returning to the filter or the tank through the fuel return lines.
It is the owner's call.
Many Universal engines come with an electric pump wired to the on position of the key. At least for them it causes no issues. I presume the excess fuel goes back along the return lines, but I’m not sure on how that’s plumbed.
See reply #31. But it is not necessary.
This is correct and is the "right" answer.
KISS, just wire it to the on position. You can then use it to pressurize the system for bleeding, too, beause if you don't, you won't be able to. See reply #31, please.
You could leave the lift pump but i chose to remove it and add a blanking plate. I installed a M8x1.25 coupling nut to couple the ridgid fuel line and banjos together so I could keep the lift pump as a spare. The electric feeds into here.
For the electric pump I used the Facet unit with lowest pressure rating in the lower cost cube-style, The FAC-40163 as listed by Pegasusautoracing.com ($66).
This has a check valve but NOT a positive shutoff valve. In retrospect, one without the check valve would be preferred for GM engines prior to late in 1998 build date (non-YEU) as these lack a self bleeding passageway and some engines can build over 60psi in this line, beyond the lift pump due to thermal cycling with cold nights and hot days and you can slight weeping at secondary filter or at lift pump (mechanical).
When cold, the fuel shrinks, pulling more fuel past the lift pump. On a hot day that expanding fuel has no place to go. Pressure surges and often oozes out at the filter vent plug.