Do you have locker lid supports?

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Jun 2, 2004
5,802
Hunter 37-cutter, '79 41 23' 30"N 82 33' 20"W--------Huron, OH
My boat originally had those spring type locker cover supports. They never worked right and would bend, then break. I have my covers home for painting and think I will simply glass over the holes. Or maybe you have found something that works.

Someone(?) dropped something on the cover and cracked the fiberglass. In grinding it down for repair I find that the curved front edge is actually hollow. I guess from a faulty glass layup? Probably why it cracked so easily.
 

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Jan 22, 2008
1,483
Hunter 37 C sloop Punta Gorda FL
Iove our springs. Work great, automatically keep locker lids off my arthritic fingers.
 
Jun 21, 2007
2,117
Hunter Cherubini 36_80-82 Sausalito / San Francisco Bay
My springs work great as well. I often think that the guy that invented them was pretty sharp.

Ed, I've discovered void spaces between the gelcoat and the FRP also. But haven't been too concerned because I read about it ... Don Casey in his "Inspecting the Aging Sailboat" says:

Because of the numerous corners in a deck mold, gelcoat voids are all too common. It is not unusual to find a boat with a flawless hull and a deck as pockmarked as a rural road sign. Voids in the flat expanse of the deck suggest inferior layup technique; but if they are confined to sharp outside corners of the deck, they show only that the designer was more concerned with the style than the realities of production layup. Deck traffic quickly breaks out sizable voids; so an older boat without open voids means either good design and layup or voids that have been repaired."

And in his book on Sailboat Hull and Deck Repair"

Voids occur when the first layer of cloth is not compressed against the gelcoat ... While crisp angles and corners may look stylish, they are more difficult to mold with glass fabric. The fabric resists being forced into a tight corner and after saturation may take a more natural shape, pulling away from the gelcoated mold. The result is a void -- a pocket of air beneath the thin gelcoat, perhaps "bird caged" with a few strands of glass. The first time pressure is applied, the gelcoat breaks away like and eggshell, revealing the crater beneath.

On my boat, I found lots of small holes and void spaces behind in the area of the sharp ridge indentation for the eyebrow along the side of the cabin top. These became very evidence when I removed the eyebrow prior to painting the cabin top. (And decided that liked the look sans eyebrow better). I spent several hours filling and fairing the holes and breaks. Another bad area on my boat was around the sharp angles for the molded traveler platform. I am sure I've got more voids around. Just haven't been revealed to me yet.
 
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Jan 22, 2008
1,662
Hunter 34 Alameda CA
After using the back of my skull as a support for a few years on the engine compartment lid I switched to the springs. I presume the springs that are being referred to above are like the ones available on amazon

http://www.amazon.com/Marine-Support-Spring-Molded-Mounts/dp/B001448XMS

They have one that is 5/8 in diameter, so it should hold a substantial load I would think. Otherwise, gas struts could be used. You would have to figure out how to mount them so they basically go over center when closed and therefore hold the hatch shut until pulled up on. They would go through a small compression and then extend to hold the hatch open. I've done that on my attic pull down stairs and on an old car with a lift gate. And of course there is always the piece of pvc pipe as a prop which is a good hillbilly solution like on my lazarette.

I've never had luck laying up fiberglass in an inside corner situation as it won't stay in the radius. I usually take a piece of epoxy saturated wood cove molding of large enough radius and stick it in the corner after the gel , or when trying to tab two 90 degree surfaces together. I sand the backside to match the radius of the curve. That way it provides support and the glass layers follow the curvature better. There are plenty of those open voids in corners on my boat by cubby holes and under the cockpit in the aft berth where that separation occured.
 
Nov 6, 2006
10,068
Hunter 34 Mandeville Louisiana
Interesting, Ed.. WHen I bought the boat back in 1991, the PO had drilled a couple of small holes in the lip .. He had installed a little lashing of 1/8" braided nylon made fast to the backstay with the tails loose. The tails go thru the hole and are tied to hold open.. One of those things that I looked at and decided it needed gas springs instead.. never got there because the ties work so well and are simple .. On the 34, the open lazarette cover touches the backstay so the tails are only about 4 " long.. They are slid up in the bimini boots that accomodate the backstay when the ties aren't in play.
 
Jun 2, 2004
5,802
Hunter 37-cutter, '79 41 23' 30"N 82 33' 20"W--------Huron, OH
Had a similar idea Claude. My four locker lids all have a hasp. On one of the nuts on the inside I could attach a short line with a hook. When I open the locker I just put that hook over a rail. Doing that now with a line between the rail and the hasp but I have to tie it every time.
 
Jan 22, 2008
1,483
Hunter 37 C sloop Punta Gorda FL
When we first got our boat, one of the springs was kinked. I fastened a loop of line inside the lid, looped it over the winch when I needed the locker held open. Mary found replacement springs. I like springs better.
 
Nov 6, 2009
353
Hunter 37 FL
My boat originally had those spring type locker cover supports. They never worked right and would bend, then break. I have my covers home for painting and think I will simply glass over the holes. Or maybe you have found something that works.

Someone(?) dropped something on the cover and cracked the fiberglass. In grinding it down for repair I find that the curved front edge is actually hollow. I guess from a faulty glass layup? Probably why it cracked so easily.
When we bought our boat all cockpit locker springs were broken, so I replaced all of them with these. Good price, too.
http://www.discountmarinesupplies.com/Seachoice_35871_Stainless_Hatch_Holders.html
 
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Jul 7, 2009
252
Beneteau First 405 Myrtle Beach, S.C.
Spring holders

I only found the spring system or the gas cartridge strut. Those were more complicated to find the right set up and pricier. About 30 to 40 each.

All of mine were missing when I got the boat so I purchased a pack of 6 on Ebay for about 40.00 and installed 4 in the cockpit and one in the nav table. These particular ones with plastic feet must bend in the right direction so I had to improvise somewhat. I still hate to bump them and receive a seat cover on the back of my head so I have a short broom stick that I use for added peace of mind when working in the lockers for an extended time.:)
 

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Jun 2, 2004
5,802
Hunter 37-cutter, '79 41 23' 30"N 82 33' 20"W--------Huron, OH
Your pictures with the modification perfectly illustrate the problem. The hinge of the spring has to be oriented in the plane of the bend. Did I just write that? Mine are like the ones that Bill's link illustrates.
 
Jun 3, 2004
298
'79 Hunter 33' HUN33190M79L Olympia
When I got my boat both springs were dangling, broken off at the lower end. I bent out a portion of the lower end of the spring and reattached it. Hard metal but doable. It now works great!
 
Feb 26, 2004
23,008
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
Ed, I use the small springs for our nav station lid, the fridge top (added our own hinges) and to top of our engine "box." If I needed them for our cockpit lockers, I'd get the heavier duty ones. I believe they come in three sizes.

I particularly liked your "The hinge of the spring has to be oriented in the plane of the bend." phrase. You might ask them to include that in the instruction manual! :):):)

What we've found is most people don't know how to use them - they force them closed, and one of my "friends" broke my nav station spring, requiring replacement. Of course, the holes on the new one didn't match the old holes...

Often, people will inadvertently clip them with their arms and the springs collapse (as they should!). That's the real advantage of the gas struts, but if you teach your children well, no one'll get hurt...:)
 
Jun 8, 2004
1,062
C&C Frigate 36 St. Margarets Bay, Nova Scotia
Ed, as far as I can tell, my boat never had any device to hold open the locker lids. I keep a bungee in each locker that hooks the lid to either a winch or the stern pulpit, as appropriate. I have contemplated buying the springs, so I am glad you started this thread. On another note, I replaced the padlock hasps on all four locker lids with a more positive latch, pictured below (because I don't leave the padlocks on when I am sailing). I also added foam gaskets to where the locker lids land. The idea is that, in the event of a knockdown or roll-over (heaven forbid!) the locker lids would not open or leak much...maybe a bit extreme but it makes me feel better. I have also been know to put all the weather boards in during particularly nasty weather.
 

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Oct 6, 2007
1,123
Hunter H30 1982 Chicago IL
Don't think mine ever had springs or any other support. I keep a bungee cord in each locker to hold the lids open when needed. Just loop it around the nearest genoa winch, pushpit rail or lifeline and hook the ends on the edges of the lid. It's out of the way and can't be accidentally knocked out or released.
 
Jun 5, 2010
1,123
Hunter 25 Burlington NJ
Ed, thanks for the heads-up regarding these spring things. I was going to install the very thing on mine and may now gravitate towards gas struts. Your idea of the lanyard with the hook to catch the lifelines is an old tried-and-true method but does leave a few things to be desired, like when you are in a hurry and don't want the hatch banging you in the head before or as you hook the thing on.

Jim's idea of using gas struts with the over-center footlocker latch is my second choice, one I will probably choose. The only potential problem here is for catching the lever of the catch with a trouser cuff or stray toe and having the hatch pop open unexpectedly. I would only suggest one use the weakest gas strut possible (20 lbs?) to keep it from being too dramatic a surprise.

I also agree with putting foam gasketing around these but am inclined to think it should be on the hatch, not the deck, because constant removing and storing of things will beat the gasket up to nothing. My only wonder here is how to plot (from inside?) where on the underside of the hatch lid the gasket should be. This is possible from the big hatch (been in there a thousand times) but from the little one, I have no idea how to do it.

I thought to use the springs for the foredeck hatch but am leaning towards the traditional sliding bars with the knurled knobs. They may be applicable to seat lockers as well.
 
Oct 27, 2011
154
Hunter 1980 Hunter 30 San Diego, Mission Bay
I replaced the springs on the seat lockers of my H30 with the larger diameter ones available at West Marine. These function much better than the old smaller diameter ones that were on the boat. The smaller-diameter springs could easily be collapsed just by brushing against them or the locker hatch; they were a real danger. The larger diameter springs are much less susceptable to accidental closure anfd I'm happy with them.

I would like to find something to hold the nav station table open. Gas struts sound like the ticket. Does anyone have a lead where to get them?

Thanks,
Gary
 
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