Compression post on a Pearson35

Feb 25, 2016
8
Pearson P35 USVI
image.jpg
Hi! I own a P35 1977 hull #367. I inspected the compression post and block and by the looks of the pictures, I have aluminum corrosion at the base- see picture- and a partially compressed block. This weekend I will inspect the step, but that seems solid.

I need advise on how to remove the compression post on a Pearson 35. My plan is to removed the bulk heads, because I see no other way to remove the compression post. I think it comes out aft. I was remodeling so one its out of the way with 4x4 support on the forward cabin .

I plan to loosen the rigging and raising the cabin carefully from below with structural support.

I was also wondering if the aluminum post could be fixed without removing it by cutting the base and attaching a new one.

Your advise will be appreciated.

Thanks,
 

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Nov 6, 2006
10,195
Hunter 34 Mandeville Louisiana
On my boat, once the rigging was really loose, it was easy to gently jack the deck the inch or so that was necessary to remove the post and do the work.. Jack to install post.JPG
 
May 12, 2004
1,505
Hunter Cherubini 30 New Port Richey
That's exactly how we did it on Fraulein II last month to remove the I-beam. Sorry pic is sideways.
 

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Feb 25, 2016
8
Pearson P35 USVI
Thanks for your advice. For those Pearson 35 owners I will share this project.
To get the compression post out is difficult. I removed the head cabinetry, door, the forward bulkhead and the side wall. Then I cut trough the fiberglass moderately to be able to see the base of the post. As suspected it is compromised and bent. Then I cut through the fiberglass base to free the post and the block.
I have not removed the post yet and not until they are ready to work on it at the shop.
Here are some picks.
 

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RoyS

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Jun 3, 2012
1,742
Hunter 33 Steamboat Wharf, Hull, MA
I think you should take down the mast first.
 
Feb 25, 2016
8
Pearson P35 USVI
Im considering it. At the very least, I will remove the sails. I inspected the step and it is solid. Although the cabin top has a balsa core, I have noticed that the builders avoided using balsa in key areas. The step has some sort of hard wood.
I also estimated the weight of the mast. I believe I'm below 300 -350pounds, riggin included. Offcourse , the cables must come loose. I did some test and I did raise the cabin, but only a bit, for I'm not ready to remove the post. I let everything settle again.
If I raise the mast ( supported with two hydrolic "gatos" - Spanish is my first language- ...jacks- well supported to the keel) and I see the cabin falling into place, then I will avoid the removal of the mast. Otherwise , if I feel to much stress and Im unable to achieve my goal off putting the cabin in its "original" place then I will proceed with the removal which it's a pain because I would have to find an appropriate place to do it .
Keep you posted.
 

RoyS

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Jun 3, 2012
1,742
Hunter 33 Steamboat Wharf, Hull, MA
I have a different boat but had the same problem. With the mast down I raised the cabin top slightly to remove the post with two adjustable lally columns, available at home depot.
 
Oct 26, 2012
31
morgan 384 Tarpon springs
First remove the mast . Assess how much corrosion is at the spar bottom ! cut the bad part off.Yes CUT IT OFF THE MAST ! now get hard wood blocks Ipe is good , Brazil mahogany Make a block the size al little shorter than what you cut off. Now glass that to the bilge where the mast used to sit. you can even make a piece to fit inside the mast so its easier for the crane to line up .
If the mast does not sit on the keel its the same concept and easier. block , glass in place. a Jack can be used for final fit. Not more than 1/4 inch you don't want to damage anything .
consult a boatwright if your not sure.
 
Oct 26, 2012
31
morgan 384 Tarpon springs
I did not understand , Yes you need a new post. Just be sure the deck above is solid . you may have to do resin injection to firm up the area. than do new non skid paint to cover. I have do to injection on my Morgan around a leakey deck track. the deck squeaks still. i did all new bolts washers and butyl tape . But the deck has separated from the core. I'll drill holes use a bottle with a tip to just fill the void 3 dozen holes shallow with a drill stip. and just squirt resin in the holes and let it run where it will. I have two kinds of resin one thin will flow any where and one that will only spread 6 inches. Than new awl grip paint with non skid sand !
 
Feb 25, 2016
8
Pearson P35 USVI
It seems the mast is going to have to come down. That's my gut felling, and it's becoming the general consensus. Thanks for the advice.

I must clarify that I have a step mast, meaning that the mast ends at the cabin top. Below is being supported by an aluminum post which is held to the cabin top by 6 or 8 screws with pressure bolts. I will removed, as suggested, the post and cut the piece out and build a new base to it. I have teak wood, but I will research your wood suggestion. Then I will reglass. I have buddy that fixes racing yacths that is suggesting some sort of synthetic material. Anyway, I believe the wood should do fine, given that the piece lasted 39 year

Thanks again.

Graham
Capitan Goose,
Brotherhood of the Coast
U.S., San Juan Table
 
Feb 25, 2016
8
Pearson P35 USVI
Thanks. When I remove the screws from the post , I will have a better idea of the condition of the deck mast step.
Going back to your suggestion of removing the mast , now that I have clarified that I have a step mast and if the step is solid, would you remove the mast anyway?
I include a picture that shows the post attached to the cabin top.
 

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DougM

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Jul 24, 2005
2,242
Beneteau 323 Manistee, MI
Since you have a deck stepped mast, it seems to me that the safest way to accomplish this task is to take down the mast. Isn't the mast base plate somehow attached to the top of the compression post through the cabin top anyway? If you loosen the rig then detach the compression post there would be the potential for the mast base to slip, and in the worst case kick out and drop the entire rig.
 
May 12, 2004
1,505
Hunter Cherubini 30 New Port Richey
That is true, Doug. If I were to remove the compression post, I would definitely remove the mast. We did that on Fraulein II in 2001. This time we only replaced the I-beam so just loosened the rig and braced the deck. If done this way, take all sails off to lighten the rig.
 
Feb 25, 2016
8
Pearson P35 USVI
I've been guessing from observation that the mast is not attached to the post. I'm quite sure the mast is attach to a separate piece inserted into the deck that receives the mast. I also have a stainless steel piece that surrounds the mast that may be providing some support , which is design to attach blocks and the downhaul. I will check on this fact to assess risks. If I dont remove the mast- which I will definitely plan for it-, I could Secure the mast using the main haliyard from the sailboat next to me and secure the mast from below tying 4 ropes in opposite directions to the stanchions base Thanks for your contribution.

Note: I'm not allowed to remove the mast in the marina and the nearest yard is 4 hours downwind. I could do it in the bay with the aid of another sail boat, but.... I'll see.
 
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Aug 9, 2011
35
Pearson 30 Chicago
Would highly recommend taking the mast down. Did the same repair on a P30, which has a deck stepped mast with a wooden post ( bottom was rotted out). You'll never be able to jack the deck up the proper amount with all if that weight on it without breaking something.
I used white oak ( red oak will work)
With the grain running vertically, which hasn't budged in years.
Good luck.
 

DSqr

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Feb 27, 2010
48
Hunter 376 Racine, WI
I had the same issue on a Hunter 33.5. We started out thinking that the deck was soft, so our entrance was through the deck, once the mast was down. In addition to the deck being soft, we found that the downward pressure of the mast had caused the base plate to deflect and crack. It was at this point that we discovered the rot in the compression post. We replaced the post with white oak that was soaked in epoxy to prevent further rotting. Once the deck was re-cored, we fabricated a S/S plate to cover the entrance hole and mounted a new mast base plate. It looks good, but it was an expensive fix.
 
Feb 25, 2016
8
Pearson P35 USVI
Update: Not having the facilities to remove the mast where I'm at, I took into considerations all comments and deviced an approach to manage mentioned risks. I raised the cabin and removed the post without removing the mast. I will publish the job in detail. I include some pictures preliminarily.
 

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