Chainplate adaptor separating from deck
- Thread starter gusmuller
- Start date
Sorry I started a different kind of discussion in the forum. The reasons why they chose this design is purely philosophical one and in reality water under the bridge 20+ years later.
The intent here was to figure out why it failed and most importantly how to repair and prevent it from happening again. I am very much interested on discussion what Jerry McElwee did on his H31.
Please feel free to give me a call if desired
248 890 8779
The intent here was to figure out why it failed and most importantly how to repair and prevent it from happening again. I am very much interested on discussion what Jerry McElwee did on his H31.
Please feel free to give me a call if desired
248 890 8779
So the saga continues ... Received brand new chainplates (Rods with flanges welded). Spent the last 16 hours trying to figure a way to tighten the nuts without any luck.
First image is the new chainplate, new spacer, new lock washer and new nut (hand tight)
Second image it the assembly prior to installation
Third image is a sketch showing the extremely lack of room to work with.
I have managed to put a 15/16 socket around the nut and turn my has up to the point where the lock washer needs to be compressed. There is just not enough room for any kind of tool to turn connect with the socket.
Image 4 shows all kind of tools I have purchased such as universal joints, adaptor, flexible wrenches, swivel ratchets... etc
I am in trouble and in desperate need of any suggestions. Hopefully some either has had to replace the chainplates on hunter 380 or know someone who has done it.
First image is the new chainplate, new spacer, new lock washer and new nut (hand tight)
Second image it the assembly prior to installation
Third image is a sketch showing the extremely lack of room to work with.
I have managed to put a 15/16 socket around the nut and turn my has up to the point where the lock washer needs to be compressed. There is just not enough room for any kind of tool to turn connect with the socket.
Image 4 shows all kind of tools I have purchased such as universal joints, adaptor, flexible wrenches, swivel ratchets... etc
I am in trouble and in desperate need of any suggestions. Hopefully some either has had to replace the chainplates on hunter 380 or know someone who has done it.
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Is it possible to turn the rod from the top? If so can you just get an open ended wrench on the nut to hold it stationary, then turn the rod to tighten it down?
You could shorten the rod to just clear a single elastic nut and not use the other nut or the lock washer. In that application the rod will not turn so as to loosen because it is pinned on top. The elastic nut will not turn so as to loosen as there is no torque applied to it in the assembly. With the shortened rod you may be able to turn a short socket to tighten the elastic nut applied as stated here.
I think its time to call in a professional. You really can't get a definitive answer from the likes of us as none of us are with you at your boat.
Keeping in mind what I had to do on my H31 chain plate/rod repair and looking at your sketch photo, it appears you may have room to cut an inspection port or cut open rectangular opening in the liner inside the boat in order to access bottom of rod/nut. Afterwards you can glass black over or cover. Can’t tell from your sketch how much room you have. Pic from my boat cut outs. Round opening has a cover for maintenance inspections. rectangular was glassed back over and painted.
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Folks
Sunday I spent a few more hours working on the boat. Job was completed and I am now ready to receive the new mast.
Ended up cutting a small 2x2 access in the lower flange of the steel support bar that is attached to the fiberglass, the additional “room” allowed me to use a modified socket and fasten the nuts.
Did some engineering, had to dig up my old materials and structures books from college, and determined that a 2 x 2 window on a 5 x 5 1/2 thick angle steel plate would not weak the system. The weakest link is still the cable !!
Thank you so much for all the ideas and recommendations. PS: the crow foot wrench did not fit there either!
Sunday I spent a few more hours working on the boat. Job was completed and I am now ready to receive the new mast.
Ended up cutting a small 2x2 access in the lower flange of the steel support bar that is attached to the fiberglass, the additional “room” allowed me to use a modified socket and fasten the nuts.
Did some engineering, had to dig up my old materials and structures books from college, and determined that a 2 x 2 window on a 5 x 5 1/2 thick angle steel plate would not weak the system. The weakest link is still the cable !!
Thank you so much for all the ideas and recommendations. PS: the crow foot wrench did not fit there either!
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Well done on solving the problem. Surprised you got an answer of any sort from the Hunter factory. I might recommend in future the services of SBO - they offer a paid phone consulting service for Hunter owners and you can talk to someone who probably participated in the build of your boat series. I've used them once to answer questions about access for a project I wanted to undertake, and they were IMMENSELY helpful in authoritatively describing where there was a backing plate I wasn't sure of, and how to access the back of it if I needed to (which I didn't, thanks to the discussion with them).