CDI FF2
- Thread starter patbratton
- Start date
We are actually going to try leading the furler line forward using the existing jib downhaul blocks. It is a small jib and I think we will have enough mechanical advantage.
A T-ball IS a form of toggle; point being it won't suffer fatigue from side-to-side motion.
What CDI doesn't want is the furler used on a upper tang that is welded or riveted to the mast and no toggle on the stay, for chance of the tang failing suddenly.
The Sail Loft of Lake Lanier called today and Kim let me know that my jib will be ready next Wednesday! They have the #6 rope in the luff and were waiting for the Captain Navy fabric for the UV protection. I can't wait to get it up and try it out. The weather looks cold an wet for the next week but my spirits are high. The next project will be the spinnaker. I have never flown a spinnaker.
I had a symmetrical kite on my 23.5. Id be happy to discuss how it was rigged, if you need any info.
I have a block on the mast above the forestay that I assume the previous owner used for the spinnaker. There are several blocks clamped onto the bow rail that were probably part of the spinnaker control lines. There are blocks on the stern rails that are obviously for the sheets. I have watched several videos and I am leaning to a jib sock and a telescoping whisker/spinnaker pole. Any suggestions are very appreciated, thank you.
I used a topping lift and a downhaul for the pole. You can make out the black topping lift line in the pic that went up to a block on the mast and down to a block at the mast base (you can see the yellow line securing the two blocks at the base of the mast). There it was led back to the cockpit area. The down haul went to the mast base and then led back to cockpit. You should try to make the pole level when the sail is flown by adjusting the lift/downhaul or attachment point on mast. There were two attachment points for the pole on the front of the mast. I didn't use an aft guy or fore guy. I (probably incorrectly) would attach the spin pole to the kite clew. I think it is supposed to be free to slide on the sheet, and position is controlled by a fore/aft guy. I think my setup worked because I never used it in high winds.
If you already have blocks near the aft for spinnaker sheets then try them out. I tied mine to the aft cleats and only had them on there when in use. The trickiest part for me was raising the kite without getting fouled in the forestay. I only used it in light air, but it was perfect for that. I remember sailing dead downwind one day on a very light breeze, walking speed, and one of those cotton-like seed puffs that trees shed in the summer was floating by just barely faster than we were sailing. Lovely day.
If you have to buy a pole, maybe get an adjustable one. I would often "pole out" the genoa, which worked very well in heavier wind going downwind.
If you already have blocks near the aft for spinnaker sheets then try them out. I tied mine to the aft cleats and only had them on there when in use. The trickiest part for me was raising the kite without getting fouled in the forestay. I only used it in light air, but it was perfect for that. I remember sailing dead downwind one day on a very light breeze, walking speed, and one of those cotton-like seed puffs that trees shed in the summer was floating by just barely faster than we were sailing. Lovely day.
If you have to buy a pole, maybe get an adjustable one. I would often "pole out" the genoa, which worked very well in heavier wind going downwind.
We were able to run half the length of the lake, Aqualand to Holiday Marina one afternoon. It was an hour an a half, very relaxing, calm sailing. Our jib is less than 100 square feet and I missed having a whisker poll like I had on Xin Loi. She was an 18 foot sloop that I built in high school. Than was in 1964. Your spinnaker is beautiful. It appears to be symmetrical. I haven't opened up our yet; I a guessing that is is asymmetrical.
I wish that it would warm back up here in Georgia. I am anxious to go out.
I went to the sail loft today and Kim had the luff rope sewn in the jib. She still has to cut and sew the UV strip on the foot and leech. I hope to have it on the boat by the end of next week. I will have pictures soon.
Yesterday was the day! I picked up my jib from The Sail Loft - Snug Harbor Boats. Kim did a wonderful job.
Today I go to the lake and wind the spool with line and try to raise the jib. Hopefully I can find some help, if Not my daughter and I will do it Saturday.
Today I go to the lake and wind the spool with line and try to raise the jib. Hopefully I can find some help, if Not my daughter and I will do it Saturday.
Got the jib up and the furling line routed. It works very well. One issue with bringing the lead forward is that the stainless cup collects rain water. I will drill a drain hole in the low spot. I see no engineering issues with doing so. I have receive complements on how simple was to hoist the jib and spool the sail.
The front of the drum should be facing towards the stern with the furling line led aft along the side of the boat. As a hunter dealer, I introduced CDI to Hunter Marine.
I would not drill into the drum. I sent a private message to @patbratton to walk him thru on set up
you can find the CDI FF2 manual under boat information under hunter 260 downloads
I would not drill into the drum. I sent a private message to @patbratton to walk him thru on set up
you can find the CDI FF2 manual under boat information under hunter 260 downloads
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Yesterday, I saw another hunter 240. I did not have my cell phone with me but I am correct on the furling issue
first what I saw in the above photo of the CDI FF2 furler, the opening of the drum is faced toward the bow with the furling line being led ou of the drum at a full 180 degree turn being led back to the cockpit along the top of the lifeline stanchions. In addition it appears the furling line is chafing at the bottom of the opening. This set up will create problems which is why I reached out to @patbratton with no response from him. The manual to include set up is posted in the above message. I have worked with this system for 35 years.
The opening should be faced toward the stern. The furling line should run out at an angle so it will not chafe on the opening behind led at an angle to the side of the boat led aft at the base of the stanchions. The way the sail will furl determines which side the furling line goes. The block on the stanchions are those with hose clamps.
If you need directions simply go to the manual or better yet, call CDI. The boat I saw had the one cleat set up As Pat’s boat
first what I saw in the above photo of the CDI FF2 furler, the opening of the drum is faced toward the bow with the furling line being led ou of the drum at a full 180 degree turn being led back to the cockpit along the top of the lifeline stanchions. In addition it appears the furling line is chafing at the bottom of the opening. This set up will create problems which is why I reached out to @patbratton with no response from him. The manual to include set up is posted in the above message. I have worked with this system for 35 years.
The opening should be faced toward the stern. The furling line should run out at an angle so it will not chafe on the opening behind led at an angle to the side of the boat led aft at the base of the stanchions. The way the sail will furl determines which side the furling line goes. The block on the stanchions are those with hose clamps.
If you need directions simply go to the manual or better yet, call CDI. The boat I saw had the one cleat set up As Pat’s boat
Dave,
Thanks for the comments. I appreciate your concerns. We measured many ways and weighed alternatives. To bring the furling line out toward the port or starboard quarter would have required me raising the drum about six more inches. to get the block back far enough not to interfere with the bow cleat or the anchor hatch. The drum has only about an inch or so clearance now from the cleat. The first block feeds direct to the center of the opening in the drum and to the center of the spool. It keeps lines off of the deck and smoothly lines up with the second block on the upper rear of the bow rail. This way I don't have to drill anymore holes in the deck and mount additional block that I tend to step on. She seems to work well as the jib on the H240 is not very big.
Pat, try your set up for a while and see how it works out. As Dave pointed out, the furling line should never rub on the stainless steel drum opening or it will chafe. I cant see from the photo if its doing that or not. Also, the line should exit out of the drum as much perpendicular to the forestay, and centered on the drum height, as possible. To high or to low and it will stack up to much on one side of the drum.
Ive never seen a furling line rigged quite the way you have it, going forward first. Usually they will run down to the deck and follow through blocks or low friction fairleads. But that doesn't mean it can't be done. Just be aware that every turn that rigging takes causes friction. Ive been in some fairly high winds for the H23.5, and it can take some effort to begin the first couple of wraps when trying to reef or bring in the genoa. So if you run into that, maybe consider running the line in a most direct route. And dont be afraid to screw something into the deck. If you are using it its not an issue. Otherwise, enjoy that roller. They are a must-have for me.
Ive never seen a furling line rigged quite the way you have it, going forward first. Usually they will run down to the deck and follow through blocks or low friction fairleads. But that doesn't mean it can't be done. Just be aware that every turn that rigging takes causes friction. Ive been in some fairly high winds for the H23.5, and it can take some effort to begin the first couple of wraps when trying to reef or bring in the genoa. So if you run into that, maybe consider running the line in a most direct route. And dont be afraid to screw something into the deck. If you are using it its not an issue. Otherwise, enjoy that roller. They are a must-have for me.
The furling line is dead center to the opening, and at right angles to the forestay.
The photos are from a 23.5 hunter and the foredeck is the same as The 240 with a single bow cleat. Note the position of the drum which is to mfg install recommended. In second photo note the routing of the furling line.
The furling line is out of the way being led to a block on the side. In the photo showing routing of the line, look at the port side you will note the block with hose clamp that I recommend.
There are some positions of the wind hitting the boat which will make it more difficult to furl the sail in. Once I saw such routing of yours that bent the bow rail which had to be replaced in a sudden burst of wind. The furling line on top of the bow rail leading aft on the lifeline is begging to be snagged.
I know the boat and the furler and have seen a lot in my lifetime. It is your boat, it is your choice how to rig it up
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