Catalina 320 Engine Starting procedure

[madmax]

New to me, 1999 Catalina 320 with Yanmar 3GM30F diesel engine. I want to make sure that my check list is correct:

1. check engine oil (dipstick)
2. check raw water strainer under the fuel filter
3. Open the raw water seacock under the galley sink (is that the right location)?
4. check fuel level
5. switch the main AC breaker off (the main switch for 120 volts)
6. turn off shore power at the dock power tower. Unplug the shore power cord from the dock outlet
7. unplug the shore power plug from the boat
8. Perform a battery check on Battery 1 and Battery 2.
9. Set the battery selector switch to "1"
10. Switch 12-volt DC switches ON for departure: navigation/communication. The bilge pump switch should be on at all times.
11. Check the reading on the depth instrument.
12. Release the steering wheel brake
13. Shift the lever to NEUTRAL position before starting the engine
14. Ensure that the engine cooling water seacock is OPEN (under the galley sink??)
15. Again, double-check that the gear lever is in NEUTRAL
16. Turn on the blower fan for ??? minutes
17. Turn off the blower fan
18. Put the key in the ignition and turn
19. Push the button to start the engine.


Did I miss anything? How many seacocks do I have on my 320?

thanks -madmax

 

[Don S/V ILLusion]

Many of those things are routine normal maintenance items, e.g., checking filters, oil level, battery capacity and SOC, etc… which don’t need repeating every time you go out.
The blower on a diesel is useful to lower engine room temp, not to eliminate explosive risk so it doesn’t serve and purpose to shut it off when running or starting it before th engine.
Removing the shore power cable, putting the key in the ignition switch, etc.. are both excellent ideas but not checklist material any more than writing “untie boat”.

FAR more important - when someone asks “how many seacock do I have?”, it’s an indication they don’t know their boat, where everything is, how to access things, what to do in an emergency, …. Learn your boat before even thinking about doing #1 on your start checklist.

 

[Davidasailor26]

All good points from Don. Some other thoughts -

1. check engine oil (dipstick)

I’d be lying if I said I checked the oil on every trip. By all means on a new-to-you engine check it initially and on the first several trips to make sure you’re not burning oil. After that, well, I check mine about monthly, which is still lots more frequently than I check a car’s oil with a lot more hours. Apply your own risk tolerance to that.

4. check fuel level

After a few trips and fill-ups you’ll have a sense for how much fuel you burn. It’ll probably be between 0.5 and 1 gallon per hour. Then you can use that burn rate to estimate fuel rather than the notoriously imprecise gauges.

5. switch the main AC breaker off (the main switch for 120 volts)

If you have an air conditioner or other large appliances I’d turn those off at the thermostat or appliance before cutting power. Beyond that I don’t worry about cutting the AC breaker in the boat. Definitely cut the dockside breaker before removing the power cord to prevent arcing on the connectors that could eventually lead to heat buildup.

12. Release the steering wheel brake

I probably wouldn’t clutter my checklist with this one. To Don’s point it’s on the same level as untying the lines, and very easy to do when you start moving if you haven’t gotten to it yet.

16. Turn on the blower fan for ??? minutes
17. Turn off the blower fan

Like Don said, no need to worry about running the blower early on Diesel engines. If you even have a discrete blower switch you can just run it once the engine is running to keep the engine compartment cool.

Other things you may want to consider are:
- Untie any spring lines that you might otherwise miss when untying from the dock.
- Close lifeline gates
- Move anything like halyards that are in a stowed position into sailing position, especially if that’s easier to do at the dock then when on the water.
- Make sure anything down below is stored someplace it can’t go flying across the cabin in a wake or when heeling.

 

[Calif. Ted]

My boat is a 2002 and the engine raw water intake is under aft berth next to strainer and transmission. Sink drain is the only seacock under galley sink.

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

18. Put the key in the ignition and turn
19. Push the button to start the engine.

For number #18, I would substitute "Stop for Lunch."

All kidding aside, @Don S/V ILLusion 's remark :

Learn your boat before even thinking about doing #1 on your start checklist.

....................... is THE BEST statement you're ever going to hear about you and your boat. EVER. If you're smart, you'll start that learning process TODAY before ever taking your boat out.

Did I miss anything?

Yes, one of THE most critical checks on your engine. "Check the coolant level in the heat exchanger." I say this because your Yanmar engine ends with an "F." Also, I say it ranks amongst the most critical because your hight temp. alarm is not self checking on start up. Unlike your low oil pressure alarm. Learn why. By the time the hi temp. alarm goes off, you may be in serious trouble. You don't know what to do with an overheated engine. If you REALLY need your engine at that time, it may be a life and death situation. Don't know how ? ? ? Think "oil tanker bearing down on you" and no engine. Something else to learn before that first outing.

Something I find strange here is that your engine is a Yanmar in a Catalina. I was under the impression that Cats of this era were all Universals. Maybe the engine was swapped out at some time but for a 1999 boat, seems odd. Maybe someone who has a Cat of this vintage can chime in here.

If you want a COMPLETE check list, if your engine hasn't been started for a few weeks, you want to perform a pre-start oil circulation on the engine. Something else you'll want to learn before that first trip out.

I think it safe to say that right now, you don't know enough about your boat to understand just how much you don't know. Start learning now, before you become a front page news item.

 

[Calif. Ted]

The 320's switched from Westerbeke to Yanmar around 1996, my '02 has a 3GM30, in '05 they changed to the 3YM30.
This is the hull history showing most changes over the years: Hull History - Catalina 320 International Association
And this is a link to the comprehensive owners manual also on the C320 owners website: https://www.c320.org/filemgmt_data/files/Hull645Manual.pdf

 

[madmax]

I haven't had time to check every inch of my recently purchased Catalina. It's located 100 miles from where I live. I am working with the professional boat delivery to relocate my boat to another marina approximately 95 nautical miles, closer to my home. That is why I am asking you about the starting procedure and the location of the seacock (for the engine cooling). I believe that the seacock I'm looking for is in the lazarette (not like the Catalina 30, it's under the galley sink). The seller forgot to show it to me. And now, the seller is kind of pissed off at me because I asked for $5000 off. I don't think he wants to see me again. I am still learning to get to know the 320. okay?

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

I am still learning to get to know the 320. okay?

If you are in the process of learning, great. However, you're best learning will first come from reading books associated with your boat in addition to all of the Yanmar 3GM30F manuals you will find here in the SBO archives.

Once you have finished with the written material, then I hope you will realize how much you don't know about your boat and proceed from there.

 

[Don S/V ILLusion]

I haven't had time to check every inch of my recently purchased Catalina.

Understand the distance problem, however, every boat is a learning curve and what people are telling you is that the very first thing you should do as soon as practicable is to look over ‘every inch’ particularly when the previous owner isn’t a resource. Every hose, every hose clamp, all electrical equipment connection, every piece of equipment and rigging before worrying about the trivial stuff.
There is no guarantee a 25 year old boat is as originally built including where intakes are located.

 

[Davidasailor26]

For what it’s worth, we bought our boat new from the factory, and if I’d relied solely on the written material for all the electrical details I’d have a few misconceptions because of things that changed during the production run. That’d be multiplied many times over for a 20 year old boat with previous owners. I’ll also say that it was at least a couple years before I’d gone through the boat enough to notice all those differences, but my boat didn’t burst into flames or get run down by an oil tanker.

By all means look over critical components and make sure you understand things like where the seacocks and breakers are before you head out. If you had a survey, that *should* cover any big safety concerns, with the caveat that they can miss things and you should still look at critical systems yourself. If you didn’t have a survey it’s definitely more important to look everything over before you set out. But I for one think you’re doing the right thing by asking questions to make sure your assumptions and plans are correct, and trying to understand as much as you can before you’re able to get to the boat.

 

[madmax]

By all means look over critical components and make sure you understand things like where the seacocks and breakers are before you head out. If you had a survey, that *should* cover any big safety concerns, with the caveat that they can miss things and you should still look at critical systems yourself. If you didn’t have a survey it’s definitely more important to look everything over before you set out. But I for one think you’re doing the right thing by asking questions to make sure your assumptions and plans are correct, and trying to understand as much as you can before you’re able to get to the boat.

Yes, the survey on my boat was done last week. You're right, I'll make sure that I understand those things, like where the seacocks are and other critical components, before I head out. For example, the fuel filter needs to be replaced because I don't want the engine to die on me (due to a clogged fuel line) in the middle of the ocean. I don't know how old the fuel filter is, so it's important to replace it anyway. I think the previous owner of the boat wasn't following the maintenance schedule. The last oil change was in 2024. He said he hasn't used the boat for a while. The bottom hull was painted last year and is still clean (maintained by scuba divers every month). The engine mounts were replaced last year. The standing rigging was replaced last year as well. The point is that I want to be prepared before I start the engine and leave the slip. I did the recent research, and I learned that the raw water seacock for the engine is located under the bed in the aft cabin.

I am a DIY auto mechanic. I have repaired many cars at home - replaced the water pump, radiator, shock absorbers, CV joints, control arms, brakes, 4x4 lift upgrade, etc. I have three cars in my driveway (two of them belong to my son) and two in my garage. So, repairing and maintaining my sailboat is new to me, but I will be OK. I'll have to watch some YouTube videos on how to replace the fuel filter.

 

[Davidasailor26]

For example, the fuel filter needs to be replaced because I don't want the engine to die on me (due to a clogged fuel line) in the middle of the ocean. I don't know how old the fuel filter is, so it's important to replace it anyway.

Try to inspect the filter and bowl when you do the replacement. Also, and maybe more importantly, bring a couple spare filters with you. Diesel that’s been sitting for a couple years has a strong potential to have bacterial growth, and that’s known for getting kicked up into the filters when you most need the engine in a bouncy seaway. (I’ve got the t-shirt that says so.) You’ll probably find two filters - a primary somewhere in the fuel line, and a secondary on the engine itself. Replace and bring spares for both. If you have an electrical lift pump for the fuel that might have a screen to clean too, but I think that’s more common on Universals than Yanmars.

 

[jaysweet]

Disclaimer: this is not a snarky comment! Make sure you have towing insurance (as in Boat US or whatever is common where you are). Even if this weren't a new-to-you boat, you should have towing insurance, but especially since you're unsure about the engine/fuel cleanliness/etc. If you have engine trouble, you need to know how to drop the anchor and call for help. A tow can be really, really expensive without insurance.

As for the checklist, it does seem like it's pretty long, as others have hinted. The one really big thing is to make sure the engine raw-water thru hull is open before starting the engine, and then listen for water in the exhaust to be sure. My dad was a Navy captain, and he insisted that we hang the engine key on the raw-water thru hull so you can't start the engine without opening it, which I still do to this day. That and closing all thru hulls before leaving the boat.

You'll be fine. It's complicated, but not all that complicated.

 

[dmax]

One thing to add when starting, advance the throttle a little bit.

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

The last oil change was in 2024. He said he hasn't used the boat for a while.

Seeing as how you're first run is going to be a long one, consider changing the oil. Inspect the old oil looking for any sign of milkiness indicating water. New oil filter at the same time.

Also replace the Xmission oil as it may be long overdue. Check one of the Yanmer manuals you've downloaded to see what the Xmission requires. My 2GM uses the same engine oil but I'll leave it up to you as what the 3GM Xmission requires.

 

[madmax]

Seeing as how you're first run is going to be a long one, consider changing the oil. Inspect the old oil looking for any sign of milkiness indicating water. New oil filter at the same time.

Also replace the Xmission oil as it may be long overdue. Check one of the Yanmer manuals you've downloaded to see what the Xmission requires. My 2GM uses the same engine oil but I'll leave it up to you as what the 3GM Xmission requires.

My Catalina 320 transmission is Kanzaki Model KM2P. The label on the transmission says "OIL SAE20/30 HD" and "OIL QTY. 003 LTR." Does that mean I can use either SAE 20 or 30 heavy-duty motor oil? Since I am in Southern California, the weather is always nice (no freezing), so I should use SAE 30-weight HD (high-detergent) motor oil. I guess there is a drain plug at the bottom of the transmission. I'll have to find out... I don't think I have a space to unplug the drain plug at the bottom of the transmission.

 

[madmax]

Found a YouTube video that shows how to change transmission oil. I'll use my fluid extractor to remove old oil.

 

[Davidasailor26]

Found a YouTube video that shows how to change transmission oil. I'll use my fluid extractor to remove old oil.

Decent video based on my experience. I have the KM2P-1 transmission on a 3YM30 engine. I’ve started using the drain plug at the bottom of the transmission instead of the oil extractor. It seems like that’s easier for me - yours might be different depending on if you have a drain plug and clearance between that and the hull. Check the oil level before removing any so you know whether you can replace the same amount or if you need add more or less.

When checking the oil level it’s hard to read the level on the dipstick directly. Roll the dipstick on a clean paper towel to be able to more clearly see where the level was.

Don’t over tighten the dipstick. The plastic caps are notorious for shearing off. (Got that t-shirt too).

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

I guess there is a drain plug at the bottom of the transmission. I'll have to find out... I don't think I have a space to unplug the drain plug at the bottom of the transmission.

There is no justice when changing the oil on these beasts. No drain plugs. Only some sort of vacuum pump will do the job.

Found a YouTube video that shows how to change transmission oil

Didn't watch it all but this guy was not too clear on the fill mark :

He shows the end of the dip stick but the fill level is that first groove about 1/4" from the end of the tube.

This is a better shot of the KM2P dip stick showing that groove at 0.20" :

................. which is the same for the 2GM.

Does that mean I can use either SAE 20 or 30 heavy-duty motor oil?

Best to use a multigrade oil. The most common weight oil around here is 15W-40 in either Shell Rotella or Chevron Delo 400 LE 15W-40. I'd use 15-40 as it gives you a wider range of application. Any big Brand oil will do but it must say DIESEL somewhere on the label. Never synthetic oil as many have said it causes problems with shaft seals. It's super expensive and offers no advantages over dino oil for boat usage.

Always be sure to back up anything you see on this site or other sites with written manufacturer's literature such as from Yanmar, oil companies, V-belt mfg, oil filter mfg, etc, etc.

 

[Davidasailor26]

Best to use a multigrade oil. The most common weight oil around here is 15W-40 in either Shell Rotella or Chevron Delo 400 LE 15W-40. I'd use 15-40 as it gives you a wider range of application.

I use a multigrade in the engine itself as the manual calls for, but the manual and plate on the KM2P and KM2P-1 say single weight, so that's what I stick with. I figure if Yanmar thought a multigrade were better there they'd recommend it as they do for the engine.

I use SAE-30. Around here if the air is too cold for that then the water is too hard for sailing anyway.