Catalina 320 Engine Starting procedure

[Allan12210]

Maybe I missed it but the last thing to check is after the engine starts, look over the stern and make sure water is coming out of the exhaust. Also, familiarize yourself with how to clear a clogged raw water line. Mine would usually occur right at the point where it was injected into the mixing elbow due to salts building up. It would require removing a little bronze elbow and reaming it out with a screwdriver. Same thing inside the hole in the mixing elbow. Sometimes it was due to a clog at the seacock. Pulling the input hose at the seawater strainer and using my air horn to blow back (2 honks) through the line usually worked.

 

[madmax]

I found this picture somewhere on the internet. It shows the locations of the seacocks, which is exactly what I was looking for. I hope it will help other people who are new owners of Catalina 320s.

 

[madmax]

There is no justice when changing the oil on these beasts. No drain plugs. Only some sort of vacuum pump will do the job.



Didn't watch it all but this guy was not too clear on the fill mark :

View attachment 238259

He shows the end of the dip stick but the fill level is that first groove about 1/4" from the end of the tube.

This is a better shot of the KM2P dip stick showing that groove at 0.20" :

View attachment 238262

................. which is the same for the 2GM.



Best to use a multigrade oil. The most common weight oil around here is 15W-40 in either Shell Rotella or Chevron Delo 400 LE 15W-40. I'd use 15-40 as it gives you a wider range of application. Any big Brand oil will do but it must say DIESEL somewhere on the label. Never synthetic oil as many have said it causes problems with shaft seals. It's super expensive and offers no advantages over dino oil for boat usage.

Always be sure to back up anything you see on this site or other sites with written manufacturer's literature such as from Yanmar, oil companies, V-belt mfg, oil filter mfg, etc, etc.

So, the oil level (in transmission) should be within the .20" on the dipstick (below the mark), correct? And I shouldn't screw the dipstick to get the reading (like what the guy said in the video)?

Are you sure it's OK for me to use 15-40 oil (instead of SAE 20 or 30 HD oil)? Of course, I won't use synthetic oil. Mineral oil (dino, conventional) is best.

I just checked Shell Rotella T4 SAE 15W-40 and found out that it is a synthetic blend. Shell makes other flavors, like Rotella T5 and T6, which are FULL synthetic.

I need to find another brand of diesel oil that is not a synthetic blend (preferably 100% conventional oil).

 

[madmax]

I'll stick with a single grade oil.

 

[Davidasailor26]

So, the oil level (in transmission) should be within the .20" on the dipstick (below the mark), correct? And I shouldn't screw the dipstick to get the reading (like what the guy said in the video)?

Yes, that’s correct.

View attachment 238276

I'll stick with a single grade oil.

I agree. If the engineers wanted multigrade they’d specify it. Transmissions run cooler than engine oil, and a multigrade might perpetually stay close to the low temp grade, thinner than the design expects.

 

[Benny17441]

New to me, 1999 Catalina 320 with Yanmar 3GM30F diesel engine. I want to make sure that my check list is corr.


thanks -madmax

Suggest you adjust the sequence of selecting battery 1 to start the engine, to alternate selecting between battery 1 or 2 on subsequent outings. This will help insure that both batteries get similar exercise while keeping one battery isolated for redundancy and emergencies. As far as the engine raw water intake valve location just follow the engine intake hose all the way to the valve. Raw water thru hull clams are usually located in the center of the hull so as not to starve the engine from cooling water as the boat heels to either side.