Cabin top hand rail

Aug 11, 2011
1,020
O'day 30 313 Georgetown MD
@Richard19068
I do not varnish my hand rails. I just give it a coat of teak oil once in a while. If the cap nuts get a little stain on them, I just wipe it off before it gets to dry.

The SEADEK is easy to apply. You need to be carful around it when walking on it. Soft shoes or barefoot is best. I laid down a tool with a sharp edge and somehow it must have been stepped on or something and it left a mark. Application: make sure the surface is good and clean, peel and stick, use a roller to get good adherence. I got really lucky with about a 98% accuracy of getting it in the correct position. I don't think you can lift and stick again after the initial contact.
 
Jun 11, 2004
1,918
Oday 31 Redondo Beach
@Richard19068
I do not varnish my hand rails. I just give it a coat of teak oil once in a while. If the cap nuts get a little stain on them, I just wipe it off before it gets to dry.

The SEADEK is easy to apply. You need to be carful around it when walking on it. Soft shoes or barefoot is best. I laid down a tool with a sharp edge and somehow it must have been stepped on or something and it left a mark. Application: make sure the surface is good and clean, peel and stick, use a roller to get good adherence. I got really lucky with about a 98% accuracy of getting it in the correct position. I don't think you can lift and stick again after the initial contact.
Thank you.

Oil would be the way to go with that I guess

Did you sand off the non skid before applying the Seadek?
 
Aug 17, 2010
360
Oday 35 Barrington / Warwick RI
I'll tell you that IF I still used the teak handrails, I would try to use UV Curing Varnish with them. I just discovered this stuff. It goes on like thinned honey, and as long as it is kept out of UV light it remains liquid. Ten seconds of UV ight exposure, and it cures harder than epoxy! It is supposed to offer UV protection like that of varnish, and it is repairable.

I am trying it on my Dorade boxes as an experiment. It took me under an hour to apply 4 coats of this stuff on all 8 surfaces of the boxes (inside and out). They have been in service for a month with the UV Varnish, and so far, IMHO, they look GREAT.
20260522_104743.jpg


20260522_104804.jpg


Oh yeah, this gives you a good look at the CURRENT appearance of the SS Handrails - looks like I need to get out the Magic Eraser again.
 
Last edited:
Jun 11, 2004
1,918
Oday 31 Redondo Beach
I'll tell you that IF I still used the teak handrails, I would try to use UV Curing Varnish with them. I just discovered this stuff. It goes on like thinned honey, and as long as it is kept out of UV light it remains liquid. Ten seconds of UV ight exposure, and it cures harder than epoxy! It is supposed to offer UV protection like that of varnish, and it is repairable.

I am trying it on my Dorade boxes as an experiment. It took me under an hour to apply 4 coats of this stuff on all 8 surfaces of the boxes (inside and out). They have been in service for a month with the UV Varnish, and so far, IMHO, they look GREAT.
.
Interesting. Those boxes look good. I've never heard about UV curing varnish before. I'm a little unclear on how that would work on coating wood in sunlight. I'll have to check it out.
 
Aug 17, 2010
360
Oday 35 Barrington / Warwick RI
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Aug 11, 2011
1,020
O'day 30 313 Georgetown MD
Did you sand off the non skid before applying the Seadek?
[/QUOTE]
No, I cleaned it well, a final acetone wipe and then peeled the backing and applied using a roller to make sure there where no air trapped.
 
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Likes: Richard19068