C22 New Style "Stormwatch" Purchase and Refit

Mar 20, 2015
2,288
C&C 30 Mk1 Silver Harbour, Lake Winnipeg
But for me 1 burner is all I need typically just heating something up, I aint no cook hehe.
I love good cooking but that won't happen.. at least on this boat. I see myself using the kettle/pot on one burner and the second for heat for fall and spring sailing. The Bbq, which I assume is like yours, will get used for steaks and most cooking in the summer. No need to make the cabin an oven in the summer.

Bigger boats ? Sure I'll cook. With 2 considerations..
I once made a fancy breakfast, including fried bacon, one morning in the BVIs in summer. All on the gas stove in the galley. Due to the heat, I tried it with just cargo shorts on.... Against my better judgement.... Ow ! Ow ! Ow! Crap ! Ow!
No fancy shmancy ac on the boat either.
 
Sep 30, 2013
3,297
1988 Catalina 22 central Florida
I cant imagine using the burner that's close to the wall it just looks like a great way to melt,burn,fire the starboard side of the boat not sure why they put it the way they did.
We use that burner all the time, it's a non issue. We're careful about it, obviously, but there is no reason to be afraid of it.
 
Mar 20, 2015
2,288
C&C 30 Mk1 Silver Harbour, Lake Winnipeg
Are You Calling Me CHICKEN !!!?? He said in his best Michael J Fox impersonation. LOL

Canadians have huge balls man...
You need them when our houses look like this:


and our camping bonfires look like this (we need to stay warm) :


"I'm not scared, it's just that my wife likes going to the top of the mast."
 
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Mar 20, 2015
2,288
C&C 30 Mk1 Silver Harbour, Lake Winnipeg
Happy Spring Everyone !

Stormwatch is still sitting out at the farm, and is waiting for the ground to dry enough so we can tow her back into the city. :(

Due to unplanned circumstances, I'm working 12 hours days running a friend's company until he recovers from broken arms.... then 2 weeks ago I chopped the tip off of my left index finger... :p

So updates will be slow for a while.

On a good note, I picked up a solar panel with the possibility of using it on the C22. :)
 
Mar 20, 2015
2,288
C&C 30 Mk1 Silver Harbour, Lake Winnipeg
Finally some progress....
Hatch is repaired:http://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?threads/reparing-the-main-hatch.176819/
http://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?threads/reparing-the-main-hatch.176819/
Teak is 95% done.
One more coat of Epifanes and I can re-install them.
I didn't have enough room to do all the long pieces plus the hatchboards, so the hatchboards will varnished next week.

In prep for reinstalling everything, I've filled all the pop top holes with epoxy, and will re-drill them tomorrow.

I'll post photos of all that soon, but in the mean time I thought I'd show you 2 things that were too cheap to pass up.
1) A folding bucket $2 at the local "dollar store"
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2) Handheld anemometer $25
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Sep 30, 2013
3,297
1988 Catalina 22 central Florida
Cool toys!! :thumbup:

I can't say enough about collapsible buckets. My wife bought me one at a boat show a couple years ago. It's amazing how many uses it has.

The anemometer is fun too. I'm forever wanting to heave to and measure the wind when it gets strong, and also right before weighing anchor in the morning. It helps us hank-on people decide which headsail to start the day with. :)
 
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Mar 20, 2015
2,288
C&C 30 Mk1 Silver Harbour, Lake Winnipeg
I can't say enough about collapsible buckets. My wife bought me one at a boat show a couple years ago. It's amazing how many uses it has.
:) I'm thinking I should have picked up a couple more at the price.
I had one years ago but it got punctured when I was using it as a tool bucket.

When my wife asked why I bought the bucket this time, I told her we needed an emergency bilge pump for when we run aground. hehe.
I hope it never gets used for that.
 
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Mar 20, 2015
2,288
C&C 30 Mk1 Silver Harbour, Lake Winnipeg
Evening everyone !

Every time I work on a project, it amazes me that Phillips screws are still in general use.

Sure they work well with drywall, where the torque limiting ability works perfect for the intended use.

I also realize, in an assembly line, Phillips screws are great since it help prevents over-tightening.....

But seriously... they are useless more often than not. They strip when you're removing them and occasionally when you're re-installing them.

For the life of me I don't understand why everyone doesn't just simply use Robertson screws.
You know the ones with the square drive hole ?
Not only do they not strip easily. They also, if both driver & screw are made to spec., allow the screw to sit firmly on the end of the screwdriver, allowing easy installation into tight spaces, or one handed use.

Years ago my dad always used to tell me that the local HVAC techs would carry boxes of Robertson screws in their vans. Every time they pulled a Phillips screw off a panel, they would replace it with a Robertson, and throw the Phillips screw away.
Since then, every time I've dealt with Phillips screws, I can agree with that sentiment.

This time, I was reinstalling the hatch rails, when three of the original 8 screws, stripped to the point of being unusable.
The only load on them was, the wood rail itself, and butyl tape at the hole locations.
I was using the correct bit.
Yes, the screws were probably original and slightly worn, but not to the point they appeared unusable.
Yet, the load from pulling the rail down tight, along with compressing the butyl, made them slip and be more or less a PITA. They just would not tighten down fully without slipping.

I had to pull the rails off, run to my hardware cabinet for some 2" stainless robertson screws and the task was soon completed.

I don't know why I even tried to use the damn original phillips screws. Eternal optimist I think.

Rant off.

The good news is.... pop-top holes have been filed with epoxy + redrilled, and the hatch rails + hatch are re-installed !

Tomorrow I'll hopefully get the "eyebrows" on the cabintop remounted.

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Mar 20, 2015
2,288
C&C 30 Mk1 Silver Harbour, Lake Winnipeg
More progress...

I'be got the eyebrow pieces installed.

In that area above the cabin windows/deadlights, there was a void between the outer skin and the inner liner.
While I could have used thickened epoxy multiple times, to try fill the void around the holes so I could fill + re-drill the holes like I've done with all the other deck holes.
I decided that it was too much work, with minimal advantage because there was likely no wood core in the void area anyhow.

I wet sanded the gelcoat in that area, with 1000 grit paper, polished it with 3M single step wax+rubbing compound, wiped the screw holes down with acetone , and mounted the teak "eyebrows" with new stainless steel screws and butyl tape.
tmp_3411-IMAG0557~01-1482399565.jpg
 
Mar 20, 2015
2,288
C&C 30 Mk1 Silver Harbour, Lake Winnipeg
Companionway Hatch

The vertical teak rails that hold the hatch boards in place are ready to be installed, but before I can do that, I had to come up with a solution to fix the teak "threshold".

Option A
1) Remove the 8 teak plugs that cover the mounting screws (3 on top and 5 on the rear edge), and remove the screws.

tmp_3411-IMAG0554_11617552620.jpg

6 of the 8 wood plugs concealing the mounting screws

2) If some previous owner used adhesive sealant...Pry up the threshold, without breaking it.
3) Refinish the teak threshold.
4) Re-install the threshold and make new teak plugs to cover the screw holes.

Option B
1) Mask off the area, and scrape/sand/prep the threshold without removing it.
2) Use an initial coat of epoxy, followed by coats of varnish

Option C
1) Mask off the area, and scrape/sand/prep the threshold without removing it.
2) Use occasional applications of oil to protect the wood.

I'm currently leaning towards Option C with possible switch to Option B in the future.

The hassle of removing the threshold, and making new teak plugs from some leftover pieces that I have, which will not match the original, isn't worth it IMO.
Varnish itself seems like a bad option for something that will get foot traffic and dirt/sand on it.

EDIT: One risk with not removing the threshold, is that I can't re-bed it. If there is wood coring where it's mounted then it is not a good thing.

In the interest of trying to actually go sailing at least once this year, I'm
refinishing it in place, and oiling it. I'll look at re-bedding it next year.
 
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Mar 20, 2015
2,288
C&C 30 Mk1 Silver Harbour, Lake Winnipeg
Companionway Continued...

To remove the companionway hatch board rails, you remove the interior teak trim, which gives access to the screws that hold the rails in place.

Judging from the condition of the holes, the rails have been removed a bunch of times over the years.
Some of the holes were damaged to the point of them being enlarged to the size of the screw heads.
Not good, but easily solved.

Out came the the epoxy, drill bits etc., and I potted all the holes.

Around the edge of the companionway, there is some type of filler material used between the inner and outer skin.
On my boat, based on the debris from the holes, it doesn't appear to be wood coring. It's likely similar to the material used in the hatch itself. Polyester adhesive filler ? I'm not sure.

There were some small voids between the inner an outer skin, so I could not simply fill the holes with epoxy.
I used some left over six10 thick epoxy. Because the original mixing nozzle was not reusable, I simply dispensed it into a plastic mixing cup, and mixed it by hand.
With tape over both sides of the holes, I injected it into the holes, waiting a bit between each injection.
It's thick enough that it didn't simply sag/ooze/run down into the panel.

Since there wasn't wood coring, I wasn't looking to seal the holes 100%. As long as they were 95% filled, which gave the screw heads something to sit against, I figured it was ok.

The next time I re-bed the rails, I may inject some more epoxy and redrill again, to fill the few gaps that were left so that they are 100% sealed. (just in case I'm wrong about no wood being in the core there)
As long as the butyl tape does it's job, the water won't get in anyhow.


Re-drilling the holes was a bit fussy.
None of the original holes were straight. Most were off both axis.

To make sure I redrilled them in the same location, I first drilled through with a thin drill bit.
While slowly drilling, I watched, from the edge of the panel. to make sure the other end of the bit would come out in the original spot.

tmp_23079-IMAG0562~011909240676.jpg

Original hole filled with epoxy, and a small pilot hole made in same location

Once the small hole was drilled, I could see where it came out. They all came out in the right spot, but not 100% exactly in the middle of the original hole location.
I then used a slightly larger to drill through again, while making any small adjustments to the angles, so that it came out in the right spot.
I then drilled again with the final bit size, and used a counter sink bit on both ends of the holes.

tmp_23079-IMAG0563~01-921019088.jpg

Hole drilled to final size, and counter sunk.

One countersink was so the heads would be flush with the interior skin, the other countersink was so the butyl tape would seal better.

Some butyl tape, line up the newly varnished rails, tighten the screws.... done.
(After a while I'll have to re-tighten the screws so that the butyl tape is sealed as well as possible)

tmp_23079-IMAG0564~01-750715896.jpg

Sure looks better than the temporary rails I made of spruce !

Next up:
Time to remove the thruhull depth transducer and solve the leak. :)
 
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Mar 20, 2015
2,288
C&C 30 Mk1 Silver Harbour, Lake Winnipeg
I forgot to mention...

In the end I refinished threshold in place, and oiled it.
The top surface was uneven and had old varnish on the forward half.

Instead of trying to use a chemical stripper, and sander, I used a hand paint scraper.

paintscraper.jpg


When nice and sharp, they can remove paper thin layers of finish and wood.
If doing a large flat panel it's sometimes handy to grind/round the 2 corners so that you don't gouge the wood.

4 passes and the old varnish was off. 15 more passes and the uneven surface was nice and smooth.
I then used 220 grit paper on a sander to finish it off, before applying teak oil.
 
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Mar 20, 2015
2,288
C&C 30 Mk1 Silver Harbour, Lake Winnipeg
Looks great. Nice work!
Thanks !

The threshold not being varnished kinda bugs me, since it doesn't have the nice wet look.
But it should be less maintenance... depending on the point of view. hehe
I must admit that part of the reason I chose oil, was that fall is coming and I want to go sailing at least once. :(
 
Mar 20, 2015
2,288
C&C 30 Mk1 Silver Harbour, Lake Winnipeg
What are you sinking about ?

Last fall when I launched the boat for the first time, we confirmed that the depth finder didn't work.
We also discovered that the transducer was leaking enough water to abort the evening sail.
sinkingsmiley.gif


I don't have a replacement depth finder yet, so in the meantime, I'm pulling the transducer out and re installing it with new sealant.

I grabbed a big pair of channel lock pliers, and loosened the nut on the inside., then turned it the rest of the way by hand.

I then easily! pushed the transducer down and out of the hull.

tmp_14962-IMAG0566-967723840.jpg

Hole under the cockput where the original Signet depth/temp transducer was mounted

A quick inspection showed where the sealant had completely failed in one area.

tmp_14962-IMAG0569_1~01~011394037665.jpg

Old Signet Transducer

I removed all the old sealant from the hull and the transducer, wiped them down with acetone, applied fast cure 4200 sealant, and re-installed it.


I did the same thing to the old speed transducer too.
When I get time, I plan on removing the hole for the speed transducer, and possibly even the one for the depth.
At the very least, there will be one less thru-hull.

For now, I'll just be happy that the leak is gone
 
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