bow eye 1986 Catalina 22..

[Hardhead]

Along Gene's line - there's this too. https://www.catalinadirect.com/shop-by-boat/capri-22/hull-deck/forward/bow-eye-rebuild-kit-c-22/

I'd definitely call Catalina Direct, and see how they recommend going about the repair. Must be familiar with it.

 

[JGuyMaryland]

Along Gene's line - there's this too. https://www.catalinadirect.com/shop-by-boat/capri-22/hull-deck/forward/bow-eye-rebuild-kit-c-22/

I'd definitely call Catalina Direct, and see how they recommend going about the repair. Must be familiar with it.

I will post my fix with pictures. I’m traveling the next few weeks but have a idea in mind when I get time. I’ll figure it out. I’m trying not to damage the anchor locker. Like I said earlier, this boat is a 1986 but looks like it came off the show room floor!! Trying to keep it that way..
Thanks,
Jonathan

 

[JGuyMaryland]

Please do, seriously. It will be immensely helpful to the next lucky winner(s) who follow in your footsteps. No one else has ever posted details of this job, as far as I know, here or anywhere else.

If you do have to replace the block, Catalina Direct sells an HDPE replacement: https://www.catalinadirect.com/shop...g-block-cp-22-c-22-c-25-bow-eye-c-27-bobstay/

Other than that, I got nothin'.

Will do!!

 

[JGuyMaryland]

Will do!!

Well here is my fix. I had to drill a hole with a 1 1/2” paddle bit through the anchor locker. I measured to mark where the bottom bow eye nut would be. Had great access to the bottom bolt. The oak backing block is a horrible design!! I used the plastic $8 part from Catalina Direct. There was already a factory 3” access in the top of the locker. You can reach the top nut from that with a little bending and 1/4” turns with a open 9/16 wrench. I used 1/4” plastic and shaped it with a scroll saw and orbital sander. Sealed it with 3M Fast Cure 4000 UV then predrilled 3 stainless steel #8 x 3/4 screws. Looks great and now there is access if needed..

 

[Hardhead]

Damn - that was fast. Good job. Can you post a photo? - it would be a good reference for the next poor guy.

 

[JGuyMaryland]

Damn - that was fast. Good job. Can you post a photo? - it would be a good reference for the next poor guy.

Here is the finished product and bad oak block. I should have taken more during fix but once you realize you have to drill the anchor locker it goes fast. Actually a easy fix!

 

[Hardhead]

That's great. How well did the paddle bit work cutting through the fiberglass? I'd have guessed it might hang up & bind. Shows what I know... good work.

 

[Hardhead]

One thing to watch out for is water leaking from the anchor locker, into the area below. My anchor locker tube drain leaks, and it accumulates in the forward most locker, in the front of the v-berth. Maybe seal that new hole with some non-silicone caulk if needed.

 

[JGuyMaryland]

That's great. How well did the paddle bit work cutting through the fiberglass? I'd have guessed it might hang up & bind. Shows what I know... good work.

Like butter!!

 

[JGuyMaryland]

One thing to watch out for is water leaking from the anchor locker, into the area below. My anchor locker tube drain leaks, and it accumulates in the forward most locker, in the front of the v-berth. Maybe seal that new hole with some non-silicone caulk if needed.

I used the 3M 4000 with a nice bead all the way around. With the stainless screws pulling it tight. Hoping that works!

 

[Gene Neill]

Well here is my fix. I had to drill a hole with a 1 1/2” paddle bit through the anchor locker. I measured to mark where the bottom bow eye nut would be. Had great access to the bottom bolt. The oak backing block is a horrible design!! I used the plastic $8 part from Catalina Direct. There was already a factory 3” access in the top of the locker. You can reach the top nut from that with a little bending and 1/4” turns with a open 9/16 wrench. I used 1/4” plastic and shaped it with a scroll saw and orbital sander. Sealed it with 3M Fast Cure 4000 UV then predrilled 3 stainless steel #8 x 3/4 screws. Looks great and now there is access if needed..

Bloody fabulous! Thank you for the report! I'm really glad to hear how "easy" the fix was, both for your sake and for mine, if/when I ever have to do the same repair.

If we ever meet, remind me I owe you a beer or several!

 

[JGuyMaryland]

Bloody fabulous! Thank you for the report! I'm really glad to hear how "easy" the fix was, both for your sake and for mine, if/when I ever have to do the same repair.

If we ever meet, remind me I owe you a beer or several!

There is no way to get to the bottom nut without drilling the locker. I pulled the fwd wood trim in the v-berth and drilled a 4”
hole behind it (trim is sturdy enough to cover no problem). I found a bunch of pooled fiberglass resin that would need to be ground out. Even if I went that direction I’m confident I still couldn’t get to the bottom nut. It’s approximately 3” from the bottom of the locker. The way I ended up doing it is the best option for getting the bow eye secure and not losing your mind/patience in the process!!

 

[Hardhead]

JGuy - did you happen to see what the bow anchor locker drain apparatus and/or drain tube looked like, when you had that bow hole open? Mine's leaking - so I was thinking of trying to re-sheath it with an 8mm OD nylon flexible tube, slid through the current drain tube. I've heard mention of that method working in the past - but you might have some valuable intel of what it actually looks like in there --

I've already tried re-caulking around the current drain tube, but that's been no improvement, so it seems there must be a hole in the drain tube itself.

 

[JGuyMaryland]

I

JGuy - did you happen to see what the bow anchor locker drain apparatus and/or drain tube looked like, when you had that bow hole open? Mine's leaking - so I was thinking of trying to re-sheath it with an 8mm OD nylon tube, slid through the current drain tube. I'm heard mention of that method working in the past - but you might have some valuable intel of what it actually looks like in there --

I've already tried re-caulking around the current drain tube, but that's been no improvement, so it seems there must be a hole in the drain tube itself.

I did not look. Odds are it’s covered in excess fiberglass material. It’s very sloppy behind the visible parts. Sorry

 

[Hardhead]

No problem - that's some good info right there.

 

[JGuyMaryland]

One question.. Thread drift!! Is the topping lift nice to have or must have? When the boat was “professionally” moved to Maryland on its trailer 14 years ago the company cut the halyards and topping lift. I’ve got the new halyards run, is the topping lift something I can wait on? Hoping to take the boat on it’s first sail in a long time soon. I also have to relearn how to sail again. It’s been many years!!

 

[Hardhead]

I believe it's one more thing to play around with when raising the mast - but it's certainly better than finding yourself on a beam reach before you remember to un-clip the pigtail. I believe it can also add some fullness to the mainsail if it's slightly tensioned, and allow you to swing the boom to the side at anchor. I don't have any extremely strong feelings either way, but I have one.

 

[JGuyMaryland]

I believe it's one more thing to play around with when raising the mast - but it's certainly better than finding yourself on a beam reach before you remember to un-clip the pigtail. I believe it can also add some fullness to the mainsail if it's slightly tensioned, and allow you to swing the boom to the side at anchor. I don't have any extremely strong feelings either way, but I have one.

Thanks..I’ve got the kit. May add it later..

 

[Gene Neill]

JGuy - did you happen to see what the bow anchor locker drain apparatus and/or drain tube looked like, when you had that bow hole open? Mine's leaking - so I was thinking of trying to re-sheath it with an 8mm OD nylon flexible tube, slid through the current drain tube. I've heard mention of that method working in the past - but you might have some valuable intel of what it actually looks like in there --

I've already tried re-caulking around the current drain tube, but that's been no improvement, so it seems there must be a hole in the drain tube itself.

It's a ridiculous design. My humble opinion is, plug it and install a proper drain:

 

[Hardhead]

Nice Gene - that puppy will drain the Titanic. You're not messing around. Nice work-