- Jan 13, 2009
Vangmaster. Top rated by Practical sailor. Pneumatic. Infinitely adjustable. I use a Bauer 20v inflator for adjustment. Came with the boat. Expensive.
Download it here. The app is searchable in the Google Play Store under Sailboat Owners.
Sorry iPhone/iPad users, we are still waiting on Apple. :(Click the X in the upper right corner to make this go away
Now I have vang envy! The vang pictured in the original post is mine, after I repaired it in Edgartown two years ago. It's an Offshore Spars vang. They don't make them anymore, which might be a good thing.
What's your mains'l size? 164sq.ft on my C&C needs the winch w/4:1 so I'm planning on a 12:1 based off of what you got there.I spent a lot of time considering a Seldon rigid vang and never pulled the trigger on that purchase. I finally assembled this 6 to 1 purchase with lines leading to both sides of the cockpit.
View attachment 172001
While I couldn't effectively use the original 4 to 1 without a winch, the 6 to 1 works very well by hand. I was thinking of cascading blocks for either 8 to 1 or even 12 to 1. Found out that 6 to 1 is suitable and, for that, I'm happy.
BlueJ is 230 sqr/ft, and the 12:1 is plenty. And we work the vang HARD.What's your mains'l size? 164sq.ft on my C&C needs the winch w/4:1 so I'm planning on a 12:1 based off of what you got there.
Safety.So, then I should be able to pull with one hand while seated single-handing!
Is that a knife taped to your boomkicker? You got pirates up there?
Starwind 27 mainsail is 181 sf. The 2 boats are very similar in dimensions. Starwind 27 has a little bigger mainsail, little smaller headsail comparatively to C&C 27. I thought 6:1 was good. If you start with 6:1, it would be easy to cascade to 12:1 if desired. That was my thinking before we sold the boat.What's your mains'l size? 164sq.ft on my C&C needs the winch w/4:1 so I'm planning on a 12:1 based off of what you got there.
What block you using on the cascade?12:1 soft vang back with boomkicker. Simple 6:1 with a 2x dyneema doubler. Double ended (back to Harken 150 cleats with high-aspect angle cages) to both sides of the companionway so can be easily adjusted/played from either side of the cockpit.
You might install a boom brake, Gyb’Easy, from Wichard, to do that. No more “hard gybes” with proper adjustment.I'm breaking a running rigging rule, but I used a nylon line in the fiddle blocks to help absorb shocks from jibes to try keep expensive parts on the vang from breaking in the future. The little bit of stretch under load will not affect mainsail shape enough to worry about. Other lines coiled at the mast, red is the topping lift, the green line is outhaul and Cunningham, white is the whisker pole halyard.
With a broad brush statement such as this, can we also say the racers don't know how to or never use an anchor?While the racing sailor will actively adjust the vang off the wind, for a cruising sailor its function is just to keep the boom from rising when running. I'm a conscientious sail trimmer but I'll cruise a summer season with touching the vang, as the mainstream alone is an adequate trimming tool.
Absolutely not. In many years of competitive PHRF and one design racing we have numerous occasions to deploy the anchor in situations where current speed exceeded wind pressure. Anyone racing in a tidal area needs to be anchor capable.With a broad brush statement such as this, can we also say the racers don't know how to or never use an anchor?
This is only true if your boat has a good traveler. One of my previous boats had an end boom sheet and a traveler that was about 6" long and almost impossible to move under load. On that boat I used vang sheeting to control angle of attack and twist. In this case, the vang set the amount of twist and the sheet was used to set the angle of attack. On my current boat which is mid-boom sheeted with a 5:1 traveler that runs very smoothly, I set twist with the main sheet and angle of attack with the traveler.I see no logic to trimming the vang when closehauled.