Boat Repairs seem insane

[Maine Sail]

Sounds like the Marina doesn't really need the work.

Greg

This may be true but IMHO it's a horrible business model. An approach I will often use is to give a realistic "hip shoot" or "ball park" and then explain that I am six months or 8 months out before I can get to the work.. FWIW it is impossible to give "accurate not to exceed quotes" for marine work unless you screw-over most customers, like car dealers do using the flat rate system. I've had customers still bite at that and then turn into tremendous customers, whom I did not piss off with my original hip-shoot..

One such customers started with a 27 footer, he then proceeded to get a new boat every two years, he just closed on a $450k boat two weeks ago.. Yep, I have done all the work and refits to all of his boats and he waited 5 months for me to start on his 27 footer. I just quoted over 42K in work to his new boat. You never know which customer will become one of your best so why risk pissing them off.. Just be honest....

 

[Calif. Ted]

I had a throttle problem that had me stumped, I called my mechanic, he said "I'm booked solid for a week or two, describe the problem." He told me what it was and what to do, 20 minutes later it's fixed. He explained "After 30 years working on those Yanmars I know all their little quirks". It pays to deal with good pro's when needed.
I rarely go with the "low bidder" especially if he ain't busy.

 

[Randall Schmidt]

I've decided to do most of the work myself. Including rebedding deck hardware. I need to install a new VHF antenna and cable and fix the anchor light that may need a new wire. I thought I'd have the mast taken down to make this work more do-able. The local shop says they'd take it down and store it for 3 months and restep it and tune the rig, replace the mast boot - all for $1600. Again this seems way out of bounds. I think I'll resort to a bosun chair and a winch and work the issues while the mast remains in place. Any tips on tuning the rig? Is it a good idea to take her down and inspect it for some reason since it is a 32 year old boat and my not have been down in a long time?

 

[justsomeguy]

I think I'll resort to a bosun chair and a winch and work the issues while the mast remains in place.

You will do this on the water, correct?

 

[Randall Schmidt]

I'd not thought about that but I guess you are right. do it on the water as the boat stands on the hard are not steady enough?

 

[justsomeguy]

do it on the water as the boat stands on the hard are not steady enough?

Something along those lines, yes.

 

[Davidasailor26]

I'd not thought about that but I guess you are right. do it on the water as the boat stands on the hard are not steady enough?

Long thread about this a few years ago - http://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?threads/is-is-safe-to-go-aloft-while-on-stands.146365/. Majority (albeit not unanimous) feeling was that it's not safe, or at least not worth finding out.

 

[JRacer]

The other part to consider is that if you do the work and it fails and the boat sinks in the slip, you bear the liability. Whereas, if the marina does the work and Moe, Larry or Curly makes a mistake and sinks your boat, they have to bear the responsibility. The cost of their overhead is built into their labor rates. If they have a history of claims, perhaps their liability coverage is expensive and a part of the equation. Just something to consider. IMO can't fault them for their estimate. It is what it is and that's what they feel (compute) what the work is worth to them.

 

[Randall Schmidt]

Thanks all. I'm taking on more and more of this stuff myself. Now where to find some parts... Replacing my water heater in this boat, any tips on a source? How about the shut-off valve on the fuel tank? What about mast boot and wedges?, ignition switch, T-pull shut-off handle?

 

[Randall Schmidt]

On my list also is a smoke and CO2 detector for my 28-footer. I've not one device that does both yet, is there one? I'd think I could do with one of each type if I need to buy them separately. Manufacturers say put one in each sleeping area. I do have a V-berth somewhat cordoned off but I usually keep the door open to the main cabin. Do you think one device in the main cabin toward the forward area should suffice?

 

[Randall Schmidt]

Also I see the Co2 needs a 12V hook up. I'll have to deal with the pain of routing a wire then to the main panel. Do any run on batteries only?

 

[Hello Below]

On my list also is a smoke and CO2 detector for my 28-footer. I've not one device that does both yet, is there one?

I think you mean CO (Carbon Monoxide) and yes a search at the Home Depot website brought up a page full of battery, 120V and both.

 

[MitchM]

water heater: look at what's already in there.--size, brand, model? figure out if it can come out without being saw Zalled to pieces. some h 2 0 heaters were installed then they fitted the cockpit, coamings etc. in place. you don't really want to have to ttake apart the boat to get a new h w h installed. mast boot: fairly easy to duplicate. once you know the profile and dimensions of your mast, order the boot. CO 2 meter - get a good quality battery operated CO 2 meter from an RV shop, and install in the living/sleeping area closest to your engine.. same for smoke detector. you can take the mast down with 2 friends and some yard's mast crane, then store the mast on saw horses and wire the new stuff in at your leisure. i had a similar mast wire - issue. thought i could do a quick fix of a deck light from a bosun chair : wrong. well, it got so complicated i had to drop the mast and re wire all the lights as all the wiring was the same age, connections were crumbling and shot. i re - wired every electric connection in my whole mast in 2 sunny weekends, saved a ton of money and learned a lot. take a US power squadron 12v marine electrics course, and get a good 12v boat wiring reference book. you'll save a lot and learn a lot.

 

[Randall Schmidt]

thanks, good advice.
The shop that quoted the $1600 to take mast down and put back up included 2 hours of tuning time. What would I need to do tune the rig myself?

 

[Alan Gomes]

thanks, good advice.
The shop that quoted the $1600 to take mast down and put back up included 2 hours of tuning time. What would I need to do tune the rig myself?

Google "Brion Toss," a well-known rigger in the Seattle area. He has some very clear "how to" videos that tell you all you need to know about tuning your rig.

 

[Randall Schmidt]

Thanks for rigging advice, I'll check it out. At this point I pulled off my Heat Exchanger and descaled it and pulled off the old fresh water pump and impeller. I'm waiting for hoses to arrive that have been ordered and I may buy a new HX. My question is if I have the boat pulled and it sits on the hard till I can get and install the parts do I worry about winterizing the motor or since I drained the antifreeze and sea water as best I could to remove the aforementioned parts, is that sufficient protection in Maryland climate to winterize the motor?

 

[Randall Schmidt]

if I do not install the old or new HX for a few months over the winter this means there is no zinc in place in the HX during this time period. Is that a problem?

 

[Davidasailor26]

My question is if I have the boat pulled and it sits on the hard till I can get and install the parts do I worry about winterizing the motor or since I drained the antifreeze and sea water as best I could to remove the aforementioned parts, is that sufficient protection in Maryland climate to winterize the motor?

Nothing to worry about on the fresh water / antifreeze side. Depending on how much disassembly you've done, there probably isn't much raw water that could freeze in the raw water side. One place I would be concerned is in the muffler and exhaust hoses, where there is likely still raw water that could freeze. At a minimum I'd look for a drain at the bottom of the muffler (plastic box aft of the port side of the engine) to let the water out of it before it freezes.

 

[Randall Schmidt]

I watched some rig tuning videos that were helpful. Any advice on removing the mast? Mine is a thru the cabin to the keel step type of configuration. I assume that I
(a) wait till the boat is hauled out of the water then blocked up somewhere.
(b) At that point I loosen then remove all stays from the turnbuckles and
(c) then remove any bolts holding the mast to the keel step
(d) disconnect wires found at the base of the mast
(e) remove the mast wedges and boot
(f) let the crane lift the mast and carefully guide it out
I guess before step (a) we need to figure out how to attach a strap to the upper third of the mast by the crane operator. I guess my marina will know how to do that.
Any advice on these steps would be appreciated. I looked but have not found any youtube videos on this topic.

 

[agprice22]

I would guess your marina has done this. My marina removes masts before lifting the boat on the sling.