Boat Repairs seem insane

markwbird · Oct 18, 2016

This is why boat owners are do-it-yourselfers. I agree. It's too expensive.

markwbird · Oct 18, 2016

That is more than I paid for my Hunter 25.5

Davidasailor26 · Oct 18, 2016

Randall Schmidt said:
SECURE Y-VALVE FOR HEAD DISCHARGESecure Y-valve for head discharge.
$437.46

Pretty sure that's usually done with a zip tie. I mean, maybe something about your Y valve is more exotic and needs a pricier solution, but I'm skeptical.

For the other items, the parts aren't that expensive, and I don't see how the labor could add up to the totals listed. Having said that, I haven't done those specific tasks myself and I think we all agree that boat work takes longer and more money than we would expect, so if anyone with experience on those tasks chimes in I'd defer to them.

jssailem · Oct 18, 2016

Randal - Boat bucks. $1000 times the number of issues.

Need to learn and commit to being a Do it yourselfer

justsomeguy · Oct 18, 2016

How many estimates have you gotten? If they all align, you might want to "get back in the groove", no?

51RD55 · Oct 18, 2016

We would never have bought the boat if the skipper wasn't able to do the work himself as it would be not be feasible for us financially. The P.O. gave us bills of previous work done on the boat as he was not handy that way...I was astonished at $$$$$$ he spent.

Jackdaw · Oct 18, 2016

New 28 footers are over $120K.

Boats are expensive, and expensive to maintain. Do it yourself or get over it.

Calif. Ted · Oct 18, 2016

Randall Schmidt said:
INSTALL ANTI-SIPHON FOR HEAD INTAKE
Install anti-siphon valve for head intake and secure. Test and check for leaks.
$808.00

I can fly in from California and do that one in an hour for $700

Alan Gomes · Oct 18, 2016

Jackdaw said:
New 28 footers are over $120K.

Boats are expensive, and expensive to maintain. Do it yourself or get over it.

Quite true, but some of those prices are pretty ridiculous even by "marine" standards.

jeepbluetj · Oct 18, 2016

Calif. Ted said:
I can fly in from California and do that one in an hour for $700

Heck, I'd do it for $649.....

Or me and Calif Ted can just split up the tasks.

That all sounds way too much. $437 for a zip tie?
$2K for 10' of hose and a coupla clamps? (And maybe an hour or two of boat yoga?)
And if replacing the exhaust hose, the cockpit drains are right there too, so lots less yoga.

I'm a dyed in the wool DIY guy. I'll advise folks that aren't to not get into boating unless they have lots of boat dollars to spend. There is no way at all I would pay anywhere close to those prices.

As to whats involved in those jobs:
R&R SHUTOFF VALVE ON FUEL TANK: As easy as it sounds. Unscrew the old one, screw the new one in. Tighten clamps on fuel hose. Check for leaks. May need to disassemble a bit more depending on clearance, but this is a very basic plumbing job.

R&R EXHAUST HOSES: Exactly what they said. Put in a new hose and clamps. It can be a little tough (depending on boat) to get to the outlet. If I'm replacing hoses I just cut them off. Only reason this gets expensive is if you need to completely disassemble the interior of the boat to get to it. On my boat I could pull the new one through with the old one.

R&R COCKPIT DRAIN HOSES: Same. Remove two hoses and replace. if the drains NEED to be rebedded that's not too tough either. Remove, bed in goo of your choice, reinstall. If you're gonna do FG work around these drains, wait until the FG work is complete.

SECURE Y-VALVE FOR HEAD DISCHARGE: Here we put a ziptie on it. (I removed mine completely, but that's because the PO installed it wrong)

INSTALL ANTI-SIPHON FOR HEAD INTAKE: This is a loop and a little valve thing. It's very very simple. Depending on the boat some could argue if you need it or not.

Benny17441 · Oct 18, 2016

All of those items that you mentioned involve parts costing under $100 and can be done under an hour by anyone with basic mechanical skills and tools. The hardest part could be finding and ordering the right parts. Yes those prices are a rip-off.

Ralph Johnstone · Oct 18, 2016

Randall Schmidt said:
R&R EXHAUST HOSES
Remove and replace exhaust hoses and clamps. Replace fiberglass exhaust and wrap and secure with SS wire. $1,989.76

Just looking at this one item (because I did mine a couple of years ago), expect to pay $200-$300 US for the muffler and about $12.00/ft US for 2" muffler hose. The rest is for some pretty mindless labour which requires a size 18 neck and a size 4 hat.

You'll curse the idea of even starting the job while you're doing it, but actually gives you a warm fuzzy feeling when you're finished. Just go slow. Be sure to check the archives for all the little tricks that go into installing the hose such as hair driers and other unlikely tools.

Stu Jackson · Oct 18, 2016

Randall Schmidt said:
R&R EXHAUST HOSES
Remove and replace exhaust hoses and clamps. Replace fiberglass exhaust and wrap and secure with SS wire. $1,989.76

Bloody highway robbery.

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6760.msg45299.html#msg45299

Elapsed time, including removing and replacing all the stuff from the port locker: started at 12:30, finished at a bit past 3:30. Doesn't include time I spent earlier removing the hose clamps at either end and taking off the aft cabin panel, say maybe an hour.

If you can't use a screwdriver to remove a bulkhead, then you shouldn't complain about NON DIY prices.

Exhaust hoses do not need fiberglass wrap, only exhaust risers do. You need to learn the differences.

DIY. You'll both enjoy it and learn something about your boat.

Good luck.

Ben Jammin · Oct 19, 2016

I haven't dug too far into my boat repairs yet, but so far this seems to be the best value I've gotten:
http://www.thriftbooks.com/w/this-old-boat_don-casey/319902/#isbn=0071477942

Joe · Oct 19, 2016

The estimate is based on the fact that they don't want to do a small handyman type job... so they jack the price knowing you are either smart enough to look elsewhere.... or stupid enough to agree. If you're in a marina or boat yard... you might need to hire someone who is bonded or insured and is an approved vendor... I would go to the office and ask for a list... then go down the list until you find a self employed handy man type that will be more forthcoming and honest about the value of his labor.

Or..... DIY.... all of the items you've listed are way easier than working on a british sports car.

Skipper · Oct 19, 2016

And I thought people used to go south to Deale to get better rates than Annapolis.
Agree with others: all that work looks like just nuts and bolts. Consult this forum if you run into questions along the way. I'm a regular knucklehead, yet I've done the huge majority of upgrades, maintenance and repairs on our boat, and she's in top shape. With a couple notable exceptions, the jobs have been fun and satisfying.
Try Greg at Annapolis Boat Service in Jabin's Yard. He did the work I couldn't do when we were in Annapolis IE driveline, bottom paint etc. His rates were fair, and his work was flawless. --The rates you've been quoted look criminal to me, based on personal experience. Jabin's Yard is also top grade in terms of service and competence, for hauling and blocking etc. although not the best rates.

jsalley · Oct 19, 2016

I'm familiar with the Zimmerman yard in Deltaville. They do top-drawer work, but are mostly geared toward high end yachts. Their prices are notoriously high, but quality is outstanding. I suspect they have intentionally overestimated this job, even for them, as it is (very) small potatoes for them.

Peggie Hall HeadMistress · Oct 19, 2016

Randall Schmidt said:
INSTALL ANTI-SIPHON FOR HEAD INTAKE. Install anti-siphon valve for head intake and secure. Test and check for leaks.
$808.00

That's ridiculous...anyone with at least a little more mechanical ability than is needed to turns doorknobs can do it yourself in less than an hour!
Parts needed.:
1 3/4" PVC vented loop
6-8' of 3/4" sanitation hose (#148 flex pvc is just fine for this)
8 3/4" hose clamps
2 3/4" pvc elbows (one for the hose coming off the pump, the other for the connection to the back of the bowl).

Step 1. Close the head intake thru-hull
Step 2. Remove the short piece of hose that connects the pump to the back of the bowl
Step 3. Mount the vented loop on the bulkhead behind the toilet...it needs to be at least 6-8" above waterline at MAX HEEL...which, on most sailboats puts it 2-3 FEET above the bowl. (see photo for typical example...the small loop is in the intake, you don't need the larger discharge loop unless you plan to flush the the toilet directly overboard).
Step 4. Cut the hose into 2 pieces long enough for the one coming off the pump to connect to the loop and the one coming off the loop to connect to the back of the bowl.
Step 5. Secure each end of both hoses with two clamps each...screws 180 degrees apart.

You're done.

As others have already said, secure the y-valve with a zip tie. That is, unless the y-valve is just dangling in the hose...in which case, find something to attach it to and secure with SS screws.

Afterthought: Make friends with your dockmates...it's amazing how willing to help most people can be if you offer 'em a couple of really good beers to drink while y'all admire a job well done!

Boat Repairs seem insane

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