Um... their diaphragm pumps use check valves to actually do the pumping. It's not something you add.
BTW Jabsco and Rule pumps are made by the same Company.
Xylem Global Brands | Xylem US
Their Diaphragm pumps need check valves to operate.
Jim...
Best Bilge Pump?
- Thread starter AlastairLC
- Start date
Connect a clear hose to your pump discharge line (disconnect it from the pump first). Hold the clear tube vertically and fill it with water until the water level stops rising (if you have a friend standing around have them verify its draining outside). Put a piece of tape on the boat at the max water level. If that tape is above the discharge thru hull, you have a loop at the height of your mark. If you don't have a loop, you need to add one. I would move the discharge to a location where you can add a loop rather than depend on a check valve IF that thru hull is below the waterline during sailing. Just my $.02...
It took me a year to decide on the best spot for the pump on my boat. In the end, I am happy with the install. There is very little water left in the bilge after it runs, maybe a ¼"
The Jabsco mentioned above and the Whale are similar, both are diaphragm pumps. These pumps have check valves at the pump and can suck water up and push it out, something a centrifugal pump can't do. Centrifugal pumps can only push water. Diaphragm pumps are also less susceptible to clogging.
I installed one of the new rule pumps with the CV last season. Seems to do a good job of preventing the drain back into the bilge. You just need to remember to remove it when the time comes to winterize the boat
Simple solution------ don't heel that way ------ always heel the other direction 
This one!
https://www.jabscoshop.com/files/rule lopro pumps.mp4
No check valves since it runs and verifies every 2.5 minutes.
So low battery drain.
Jim...
PS: Not for me, since mine works fine.
While a loop is better than a check valve, a check valve will work fine - especially for occasional back flow from healing. It will have no visible reduction of pump flow. I have one of these new designs from Raritan and like it a lot. Just cut your hose and stick it in. The hose is likely 3/4" Raritan Trudesign Connector with Check Valve
The common argument against check valves is that they can stick or get seaweed stuck in them but I've never seen that happen once in 40 years of boating.
There's little reason to replace the pump too. Inexpensive bilge pumps are now mostly made in China and are lower quality than they used to be. There's a good chance that your current bilge pump will outlast a new one.
If you are someday feeling like a project, it would be a better idea to add a 2nd bilge pump a few inches above your current one.This will last forever because it will hardly ever get wet but it will be ready to go if the first pump fails or you have a serious leak. You will have to run a 2nd hose for this one. but it could be just pump into the cockpit and let the cockpit drains take over from there. That way you'll notice if the 2nd pump ever turns on (which means something is wrong).
The common argument against check valves is that they can stick or get seaweed stuck in them but I've never seen that happen once in 40 years of boating.
There's little reason to replace the pump too. Inexpensive bilge pumps are now mostly made in China and are lower quality than they used to be. There's a good chance that your current bilge pump will outlast a new one.
If you are someday feeling like a project, it would be a better idea to add a 2nd bilge pump a few inches above your current one.This will last forever because it will hardly ever get wet but it will be ready to go if the first pump fails or you have a serious leak. You will have to run a 2nd hose for this one. but it could be just pump into the cockpit and let the cockpit drains take over from there. That way you'll notice if the 2nd pump ever turns on (which means something is wrong).
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I’m sure that you are right, CarlN, but I’d like to replace my current two-unit pump and float switch with a single unit to simplify the bilge setup.
Totally up to you, and that's not a bad way to go. I'll only point out that by doing this, you will have to replace the entire unt if either the switch or the pump were to go bad. I prefer to keep them seperate so I'm able to switch out the one that stops working. But that's really only a preference.
dj
p.s. I also find it easier to have a bypass switch where I can turn on the pump bypassing the float switch if desired.
If you want a reliable bilge pump switch that will last, take a look at the Ultra Switch.
A well designed bilge pumping system will have two types of pumps:
1- A diaphragm pump for dealing with nuisance water
2- One, two or more centrifugal Rule style pumps to deal with moving high volumes of water
Follow ABYC standards. The OP's hose location and routing are not a compliant installation.
From Rule
1- A diaphragm pump for dealing with nuisance water
2- One, two or more centrifugal Rule style pumps to deal with moving high volumes of water
Follow ABYC standards. The OP's hose location and routing are not a compliant installation.
From Rule
This is interesting. You are saying that the ABYC standards recommend only electric bilge pumps? I was always taught that you must have a mechanical pump back-up in addition to electrical pumps.
I certainly will have mechanical pumps on an off shore boat, preferribly two, one that can be actuated from inside the boat and one that can be actuated from the cockpit.
dj
I certainly will have mechanical pumps on an off shore boat, preferribly two, one that can be actuated from inside the boat and one that can be actuated from the cockpit.
dj
While I'm sure it's a good switch, the inclusion of these wading shoes on the same page just doesn't inspire confidence.
Rather than reference the ABYC it might be more useful to to look to research on removing water in an emergency.
When considering "dewatering" you might check the ORC Cat. 1 recommendations. These discuss everything from size (thru put) of cockpit drains to strength of hatch boards. And a lot more.
Our boat was built for ocean sailing by Ericson Yachts, and they installed a large ($) manual pump in the cockpit for all of their boats starting sometime in the 80's.
I have renewed it once along with all the hoses. Along with our two electric Jabsco pumps, the hope is that we can remove water fast enough to find and staunch a major leak before we sink. Or, at least slow down the accumulation while we find the leak source.
ORC Cat. 1 presumes (hopes) that there is enough crew aboard to have one or more assigned to damage control (as it was called in my Navy days) while the other person drives and pumps. And, as long as the engine can operate and make more amps, our electric pumps will remove water.
All theoretical, but still, the more you plan ahead, the more likely you are to survive...
When considering "dewatering" you might check the ORC Cat. 1 recommendations. These discuss everything from size (thru put) of cockpit drains to strength of hatch boards. And a lot more.
Our boat was built for ocean sailing by Ericson Yachts, and they installed a large ($) manual pump in the cockpit for all of their boats starting sometime in the 80's.
I have renewed it once along with all the hoses. Along with our two electric Jabsco pumps, the hope is that we can remove water fast enough to find and staunch a major leak before we sink. Or, at least slow down the accumulation while we find the leak source.
ORC Cat. 1 presumes (hopes) that there is enough crew aboard to have one or more assigned to damage control (as it was called in my Navy days) while the other person drives and pumps. And, as long as the engine can operate and make more amps, our electric pumps will remove water.
All theoretical, but still, the more you plan ahead, the more likely you are to survive...