autopilot install on an H280

[matts997]

Has anyone installed the newer Raymarine EV-100 wheel autopilot kit in a Hunter 280 or similarly configured mid-size Hunter?

I'm getting ready to do this and I'm wondering about the best locations for the various components (compass, computer, interface & control head). The 280 also requires the Raymarine "box pedestal kit" in part because otherwise there's not enough clearance to mount the motor and clutch on the outside of the 280's box pedestal. So I'd have to drill ~ a 2" hole into the pedestal to insert a "motor tube" that houses the motor and clutch. I'm just not sure if there's sufficient clearance inside the pedestal---e.g., exactly where are the steering wheel cables located? Before I start removing the top of the pedestal (not a small task), thought I'd ask if anyone out there has already done this or knows how the inside of the pedestal is configured. To make sure this can work with an H280 w/out significant modifications.

Thanks, Matt

 

[Tally Ho]

I had a 1998 Hunter 280, with autopilot. I did not install the set up, but:
1) the drive motor was cut into the binnacle (a hole was cut into the area behinD the wheel where it should sit...allowing it to be mounted “into” the binnacle/icebox area.

2) the control head was mounted on the coaming, next to the engine control panel.

3) I don’t recall where the compass was mounted...somewhere in the cabin, low and near the center of the boat...but I cannot recall exactly where..

i am looking for some photos, but you’d could go to my YouTube site...this old video shows some of the AP mounting (Sorry for the quality)....might give you some ideas. There are other videos from back then if you want to scroll around and see if there are others...

Greg

 

[matts997]

Greg, thanks so much for sending this, very helpful--and reassuring. Looked at your video and I can't see exactly where the motor tube was inserted into the binnacle--was it closer to the starboard side of the wheel, as shown in the attached pdf from Raymarine? And it looks like your autopilot was connected to your wind transducer--do you recall if that was one of the older Raymarine wind systems--think it's the ST60 series? That's what I have on my H280 and I was wondering whether I'd have to buy a newer transducer to communicate with the autopilot.

Matt

 

[jssailem]

Matt I am assuming you have the Bulkhead/Pedestal kit. There are 2 parts that you will be attaching to the pedestal. The hole and the trim piece, and the post (this keeps the frame in place so the wheel belt can rotate the wheel).

 

[matts997]

Yes that's what I'm planning to get---the box pedestal fit kit. I was just wanting some confirmation before ordering everything that the H280 has the clearance needed inside the binnacle, and nothing vital is in the way. From Greg's set-up, it looks like it's definitely doable.

Thanks, Matt

 

[Tally Ho]

Yes, the motor tube hole was on the starboard side of the pedestal.

yes, my AP was also tied in with the wind instrament, so it could hold a wind angle. I think it was an ST60.

All instruments were RayMarine and connected via SeaTalk.

 

[Pizzazz]

A couple of points, the EV-100 is SeatalkNG only, while ST60 is Seatalk only. Check to see if your MFD can do the conversion otherwise you need to get the Raymarine stand alone converter. Next, since you will have to mount the motor inside the pedestal, I do not think you actually need the center pin. I would just cut a hole in the pedestal for the motor and that will hold the autopilot steady while the wheel is turning. It will make it simpler and neater.

 

[jssailem]

I do not think you actually need the center pin.

I would want to ask the Raymarine Tech about that. There is a lot of force in the rotation. This would put that force on the motor. It might affect the motor bearing, threaded fitting and gears. Individually they would wear. The bar fitting is solid and it handles all the force used to handle wave and boat forces on the helm/rudder.

Raymarine would be best aware of this issue.

 

[Tally Ho]

My application did not use the “trim ring” in the pedestal kit. The hole in the pedestal was a little knarly.

I don’t remember if I used the center pin...still can’t find a good photo.

Greg

 

[rhiggins]

Resurrecting this old thread here.... Matt, did you complete the install? How did it go? Any unforeseen snags, mistakes to avoid, or other pearls of wisdom you could share with a fellow H280 owner considering this same project? Hoping to make single handing easier especially since we don't have a wheel lock/brake. Thanks,

Rob

 

[BOSSailor]

I just installed an EV-100 in my 1990 30-2. I have a regular pedestal so I didn't have to worry about the box kit or anything. Install was pretty straightforward. I was replacing an older ST4000 so I didn't have to run a new drive cable to the helm for the wheel drive but overall it took about four hours to install.

Feel free to ask any questions and I'll try to answer them. I don't have anything to compare it to but I'm very happy with the system.

 

[rhiggins]

I just installed an EV-100 in my 1990 30-2. I have a regular pedestal so I didn't have to worry about the box kit or anything. Install was pretty straightforward. I was replacing an older ST4000 so I didn't have to run a new drive cable to the helm for the wheel drive but overall it took about four hours to install.

This is good to hear. I do have that molded pedestal which I've heard makes mounting the drive trickier, but it's not like I'd be breaking new ground - it's definitely been done before. I still haven't even ordered the A/P yet - waiting for a sale - but when I do, I'll let you know if I get stuck in the install. Thanks!

 

[BOSSailor]

The price was a little tough to swallow but when I looked at just replacing the wheel drive for $600 versus a completely new system for $1,400 it was an easy choice. I knew my drive was busted but was unsure of the state of the computer and flux compass. Also goes without saying but the new gear is much more user friendly than the old system that I assume was original to the boat.

 

[matts997]

I got busy and had to hire a marine electrician to install it, who did a fabulous job. The guts of the system were installed out of sight behind the aft bulkhead, with cables running up to and under the pedestal. The only tough decision for me was where to have the display/control screen mounted, on the pedestal rail or the starboard bulkhead near the ignition panel. I elected to go with the bulkhead mount, as getting around the pedestal is hard enough on an H280. That placement has worked out really well....easy to access the controls while sailing.

The system works incredibly well, remarkably accurate and easy to use. I've had no problems with it. The best feature I think is the auto-turn function while tacking. Took me a while to get the timing just right (i.e., when to initiate auto-turn in relation to the tack and wind conditions...but once I mastered this, solo sailing (or sailing with my wife, which is about the same thing) has become a breeze. ( :

Matt

 

[rhiggins]

Thanks Matt - this is very encouraging! Between your and BoSSailor's feedback, I'm feeling like this project will be well worth the time and money. Will post back when I get going.

 

[rhiggins]

Some great sales going on the Raymarine Autopilot so I finally pulled the trigger and ordered one. Matt, any pictures or video of your install you can share? Did your installer use the center pin or secure the motor some other way to the pedestal?
I'm excited to get going on this project...

 

[jssailem]

Did your installer use the center pin or secure the motor some other way to the pedestal?

This is a 3-4 difficulty to DIY. Good instructions. You just need to plan out how you want to wire it, and locate the boxes in places where you can get to them but are not in the way.

The sensor magnetic sensitive and needs to be free of nearby iron, electric, or magnetic sources. I understand you can get an iPhone App to help you find a safe space.

You need to fix the wheel. The "center pin" as you call it fixes the back portion of the wheel unit so that it does not spin. This frees the helm wheel to spin and provide steerage.

Not a big deal. You drill 4 holes, tap the holes, screw 4 short screws into the pedestal. No muss no fuss.

Perhaps one of the 280 owners can share with your the route that the cables were run.

good luck

 

[rhiggins]

It's alive! It sat in the box for a few months but I finally completed the installation. It was straightforward and there were several good YouTube videos that helped me. I did have a few challenges that were not addressed by any of the videos I watched so I uploaded my first DIY video to try to pass on what I learned. Be advised that I have an iPhone 8 w/no motion stabilizer, I have no script, and low lighting. As far as YouTube videos go, I'm fully aware that this one is total crap so be nice. I only hope it helps the next guy/gal who takes this project on. I will say that I sailed twice this past weekend and it worked GREAT. This auto-pilot is going to be a game changer for me as far as single-handed and short-handed sailing goes.

 

[matts997]

Sorry, I totally missed your question from last June about images/videos of my install.

I really like your video...wish I had had it before I had mine installed--would have helped a left-brain guy like me visualize the process and get a better understanding of what was involved, where things should go.

Have you tried the auto-turn function yet? Think you’ll really enjoy that.

Thanks for sharing this.

Matt

 

[rhiggins]

No worries Matt - I'm glad you liked it. I haven't tried the auto-turn... is that different than the feature that allows you to hold a wind angle? I'm already thinking I might want to connect my wind instruments to be able to use that feature but for now they don't talk to each other. I'm really impressed at how well the thing works so far.