Anyone planning to tour the San Juans this summer?

[Terry Cox]

Hi Forbin, during the summer pods will meander north and south along the west side of San Juan Island. Lime Kiln is a popular place for land lubbers to hang out there in hopes of spotting a pod as they go by. Very deep there. Two years ago we just hung out with our genoa up in very light winds for about two hours. They came through southbound. There were some calfs, several cows and bulls. I saw one broach and spin in mid air. Another bull came up to our boat, turned and slapped his tail at us, getting the crew wet. Others swam under the boat and up close. Pretty amazing.

Other times you can spot the pod location by the number of whale watching boats off in the distance. Use care, because there will be Orca patrols on the watch. You need to keep your distance. If your sail is up, and the pod comes through you, well not much they can do. That has happened to us before.

 

[$tingy Sailor]

Well, while we're on the topic of wildlife, what's the fishing like? I'm totally ignorant about salt water fishing but I've done a lot of Montana river and creek fishing. Is it worth gearing up for one trip? Do you troll along the way, cast near shore? What are the most likely and best species to be had? An occasional fresh fillet on the barby would be great.

 

[forbin]

...during the summer pods will meander north and south along the west side of San Juan Island. Lime Kiln is a popular place for land lubbers to hang out there in hopes of spotting a pod as they go by.

Thanks for the info Terry. I joke about it because the last two times (between Roche and Victoria and then between Victoria and Sidney) we've been in Haro Strait the Orcas were spotted shortly after we were gone! Hopefully this summer!

 

[Ken Cross]

Piece of cake.

What about the orcas? How common is it to see them and where are the best places?

West of Turn Pt on Steward Island we saw orcas regularly last August. (Orca sightings are the most common) But then we also saw hump backs between Shaw and San Juan islands (had not seen that before.) Often you can locate whales by looking for slow or stopped whale watching boats. Sometimes it's a bit sad to see half a dozen or more huge whale watching boats and one or two whales.

Ken

 

[Ken Cross]

Well, while we're on the topic of wildlife, what's the fishing like? I'm totally ignorant about salt water fishing but I've done a lot of Montana river and creek fishing. Is it worth gearing up for one trip? Do you troll along the way, cast near shore? What are the most likely and best species to be had? An occasional fresh fillet on the barby would be great.

Also read the rules carefully, Our fishing regulations are not simple and really short seasons for Halibut and lingcod. Many species are off limits. Here is a link to the regs: http://wdfw.wa.gov/fishing/regulations/ Yup, 141 pages long.
And you need to check online for updates as the rules change sometimes daily. I get email updates and even then it's difficult to keep up.

Ken

 

[Terry Cox]

This sailor does not fish. Takes away from sailing, IMHO. If I want fish to eat I'll open a can of salmon or tuna, yum. My Garmin 178C has a sounder feature, which displays fish symbols. Around these waters (Puget Sound) a few fish will show up, but the further north you go this display begins to fill up. Around the Discovery Islands and even further north the display will become a solid display of fish symbols. Amazing!

No crabbing either, although I do keep a crab pot and related paraphernalia on board for those that insist. This sailor does enjoy fresh shucked oysters; raw or poached. Plenty to gather up north, however not so much around these parts.

I do keep fishing gear on board for those so inclined.

During our cruise this summer I have been known to walk the dock with a bucket and on one occasion in Klemtu a nice ten pound Sockeye female jumped in. That was dinner for three days along with Sockeye roe that I used as our egg fry topping. On two other occasions I walked the dock with my bucket and three crabs jumped in. Dinner for three, first in Sullivan Bay and the next on our return stop at Klemtu. Just lucky I guess, or the green bucket.

 

[Terry Cox]

Simpatico with wifey here. Get it aboard, blood and guts all over. Filet or steak cut. So much effort. Cost of license, gear, etc. Whew! I'd rather purchase one from a fisherman up north, clean it at one of the dock cleaning stations, etc. Just me, I guess.

 

[$tingy Sailor]

Ok, next question...I have a Standard Horizon HX-851 handheld VHF radio. Will it be strong enough considering so many islands and other boats in the area? Odds are we'll be touring with another boat or two also.

 

[Mark Maulden]

What do you want to do with your handheld? If you want to communicate with another boat within a few miles and line of sight it will probably work. Past that a regular radio would be better. Also a radio with a mast mount antenna would receive WX and other stations a lot better.

 

[Terry Cox]

I've had a WM handheld for several years and it works well as a backup, when in the dingy or going ashore to assist the fleet or others with docking. Weather 4 and CG transmissions come through nicely on it. While on the mother boat I find it's VHF radio with mast mount antenna provides better coverage over a much larger area.

 

[$tingy Sailor]

Right. I just ask in case there are typical situations or conditions there where a handheld doesn't perform well enough where it would make enough difference to upgrade.

 

[Mark Maulden]

Do the uprade. You wont be sorry

 

[Terry Cox]

In all these years around the islands, two new places I'm planning on taking my son's family to this season; Hunter Bay on the SE side of Lopez and Fishermans Bay on the NW side of Lopez. Both seem like nice anchorages. Bottom end of East Sound is close to town. We were there many years ago and tied up to the small dock and walked into town. Not sure whether the dock is still there, but anchoring out and taking the dinghy ashore always works.

Another nice place is West Sound that has a very good restaurant a short walk from the small full service marina. Bottom end makes for good anchoring, too. Parks Bay on the west side of Shaw is just across San Juan Channel from Friday Harbor, another great layover spot. Plus many, many others.

 

[Ken Cross]

Ok, next question...I have a Standard Horizon HX-851 handheld VHF radio. Will it be strong enough considering so many islands and other boats in the area? Odds are we'll be touring with another boat or two also.

We have both radios, but almost always use the handheld in the SanJuans. In fact the only time I remember needing the radio in the cabin was when the battery in the handheld ran down.

Also: about the cost of fishing, it's free. I'd pay for the gear and license even if I didn't catch anything. (I know the wife isn't buying it either.)
Ken

 

[$tingy Sailor]

For all those who have been there, what was your most memorable experience?

 

[Ken Cross]

For all those who have been there, what was your most memorable experience?

There are so many places it would be a tough call. Some of our favorites for anchorages or state park docks: Fossil Bay on Sucia island, Reed Harbor on Stewart Island, Garrison Bay (English Camp is anchor only but has a nice dinghy dock) (be sure to Google Pig War). For a party atmosphere; Friday Harbor on a weekend with a free concert on the dock (this is the place to re-provision). Many folks like Deer Harbor or Roche Harbor, but I think they are over priced. Expect to pay resort prices there. Please don't think this is but a taste of what's there.
Ken

 

[Mark Maulden]

And Ken is correct. A taste. There are so many places to go you could write a book...and many have. The towns/resorts all have anchorages if you dont want to pay dockage. We anchor out at Deer Hbr a lot and go ashore. Excellent restraunt with a little walk up the road. A nice hike toward Pole pass and around back to marina. Patos Is is good but little room. Be prepared to go to Sucia/Matia/Clark if needed. Spencer Spit is good. Jones Is a good.. Get a copy of Waggoners and read it. You can also download it for free. It gives a lot of good info. For example, at Parks bay, you cannot go ashore. And then....Cross the border and go into the Canadian Gulf Is. I know numerous people who have circumnavigated and still call the PNW the best cruising grounds. Just dont expect constant winds within the islands so, sometimes its a challenge. So, everytime I leave the dock is a good experience. Oh yeah..get setup for some crabbing!!

 

[Terry Cox]

You can go ashore in Parks Bay on the east side as long as you rescue the property owner's son with a dead outboard and is oar less. Their thank you was an invite to a happy hour picnic at their private beach camp site. Otherwise, as you say, no shore access.

 

[Terry Cox]

For all those who have been there, what was your most memorable experience?

Probably Friday Harbor, snowing during the end of December, six inches of snow on F reciprocal dock, crunching up to town in the snow solo several years ago. Furnace keeping the boat toasty warm.

Started snowing on the way over that night at Spencer Spit, then the next day on the way to the bottom end of West Sound, dropped anchor for the night, before arriving Friday Harbor the next day. Nary another boat around except an occasional ferry. Wifey said I must be crazy.

 

[wristwister]

OK, I keep my sailboat at Anacortes and I know the San Juans like the back of my hand. I'll throw out a few pointers that may or may not be covered elsewhere in this thread:

The First Mate might really like Rosario resort. Very pricey to stay on shore at the resort and they're probably booked anyway, but if you stay on your boat at the marina you can use the facilities. Pools, spas, history, great restaurant etc. And they run a regular shuttle to EastSound which is a cool little town to browse around in.

Shallow Bay in Sucia is my favorite spot (so don't tell anyone!). I bring camping gear and set up camp right at the bay, with the dinghy at my own little private beach.

Grab a ball at either harbor on Stuart Island. Take a hike, buy a Tshirt from the treasure chest, check out the Turn Point lighthouse.

In my experience, fishing hasn't been conducing to leisurely sailing with the family. Nothing spoils the mood quite like clubbing a monster salmon to death on the cockpit floor as it thrashes around spraying blood on everybody. But crabbing on the other hand is fantastic! Get your license and bring a trap. We set the trap right outside whatever little cove we're going into, then after you're anchored and relaxed, take the dinghy out there and pull up dinner. Yum! And don't bother with a big kettle and propane burner, just clean the crab and toss it directly on the BBQ for a few minutes per side.

Bring kayaks if you have them. They fit nicely against the lifelines, and there are treasures to be explored by kayak at some of the islands.

Gas: Anacortes still has ethanol free marine gas. My dinghy outboard and my old Atomic 4 really appreciate that stuff. I believe Friday Harbor and Roche only sell ethanol gas. Not sure about the other gas docks. Something to think about if you've got an older or finicky motor.

If you do decide to expand your horizons a bit, there's some really cool stuff up in the Canadian Gulf islands. Clear customs at Bedwell Harbor on North Pender Island. Montague Harbour on Galiano Island is awesome, take the bus to Humingbird Pub. Trust me on this!

I could go on and on. Keep us posted on your plans. If a blue Tartan 30 drops by offer me a beer!