And so it begins

[25yearslater]

Oh yeah, and another thing. If some PO hasn't oversprayed gelcoat or worn cleats on your nonskid deck, or even drilled a million holes in some feeble attempt to save a rotted core with resin injecting, or if you have a boat the owner woudn't mind having you smear urethane all over, you can do this before purchasing the flex mold as a way to save even more coin. :cussing:Go back one page for what it is I'm jabbering about here.

 

[25yearslater]

Well there it is. The largest piece has been made. I'm not crazy for the 75-60 as it sets up fast, fast, fast and if that wasn't bad enough it will readily tear. I'm going back to the 74-30 for subsequent molds. With the addition of the screen it is plenty good enough. Either product works but a slower cure, less susceptable to ripping is probably preferable. Place on the opposite side pattern up and cut it to shape plus 1/2 to 3/4 inch larger per side. And I should include a note about all this process. Gibco and the flex mold distributors are in business to make a few bucks. To pirate an idea is both unethical and probably illegal. If you desire to use this process at least buy something from these folks and remember if they go out of business we all suffer the loss of a product disappearing from what is in reality a very small market. So here's a look at Step 3 in its' final form. A good way to keep a company going and save some serious money at the same time.

 

[25yearslater]

You be the judge. Picture 2 is the 75-60. Picture 1 is the 74-30. The 75-60 also curls at the edges like a banana so it would entail weights to fully imprint. My choice after some discussion among my family is due to the greater definition and resultant grip the 74-30 will be the mold material I will be using. It doesn't curl at the edges either. Step 4. Check.

 

[25yearslater]

I'm waiting on more stuff which will arrive Monday. And with todays 75+ MPH winds YOT was left naked as the tent and frame went careening across the front yard. No damage other than the tarp which has been replaced. The frame can be rebuilt once hurricane season subsides. So much for the stabilizing effect of Lake Ontario, but I do wish all the folks down south well as they greive their deceased and recover from their losses.

 

[geehaw]

To Joe, Tod and others,just a little tidbit to add here. You can make your own wipe on poly. It is only a thinned poly, mix 1part poly to 3 parts paint thinner and save a few more dollars as your paying for mostly thinner when you buy the wipe on. Greg

 

[25yearslater]

Thanks Greg, I'm going to give it a try when I replace the galley woodwork. So back to a previous conversation. Cabin ventillation. Ok so now I have removed the winches, one set of Barient 21s and one set of Barient 22s. Only one set will find it's way back aboard. This leaves 2 gaping holes on the port side cabin liner. Now I need to know will a solar vent operate in less than direct light? What I'm up to is using the port side cowl vent as the outside air source and drawing it in through the coming for discharge in the cabin. I can run duct work through there from the port lazarette and cap it with a hinged vent that opens when the blower is run as the blower is really a sucker. The winches had handy access plates that might be a dandy place to install a powered vent if it will work. And if anybody has the backstay length for a 27 do let me know. I will be pitching that ridiculous backstay adjusting thing that was falling apart and returning it to the center chainplate.

 

[jibes138]

The solar vents also have a battery so it runs at night. The solar cell charges the battery. I use my solar vent for exhausting stale air and let the various leakage paths in the boat provide the fresh air, this gets air circulating all through the boat. For instance, the solar vent creates negative pressure in the boat. Leakage paths are through the companionway, through the cockpit lockers, I also have a dorade vent (I have two but put the solar vent in one of them, the other provides air into the boat and more air if the wind is blowing in the right direction. I also have a hatch that I can lock in position in the V-berth open just a tiny crack, so this lets fresh air circulate in their. Overall just one solar vent works great fo the whole boat.
If it never gets direct light it might not be so good, Mine is flush on the deck top dorade box. If you are mounting it vertically on a coaming I'm not sure it will last, might never charge the battery to full capacity leading to short life. Mines been running 12 months a year for four years.

 

[25yearslater]

Well how about an update. I'm busy, busy, busy finishing the nonskid patterns and drooling to give them a try. I decided to go with the 74-30 urethane as it yields the best pattern transfer. So they are all poured, cut and rolled up in the cabin waiting their turn. Tomorrow if the weather cooperates I'll give this gelcoat spraying a go as my 'pro' has backed out of the doing but has offered consulting services and will hold my hand till I get the hang of it. I picked up a .6 liter spray gun from Bottom Paint Store and my 1 horsepower compressor is more than capable of providing enough air as the little gun is stingy with air consumption. I also have a gallon of unwaxed neutral base gelcoat that I purchased from US Composites along with 1 ounce of the 'Titanium White' and 4 ounces of the 'Gunsmoke Gray' coloring agents. During the mixing I discovered a little goes a long way. The neutral comes with a light gray/tan tint to it and the white didn't change that much. The gray on the other hand. One ounce of gray sent it right through the light, light gray I was aiming for and into the realm of light gray. Not bad though. The Awlgrip/Awlcraft color chart has a 'whisper gray' that I was shooting for and I now have the same chart's light gray. Close enough for a complete recoloring but bears consideration if exact matching is required. So tomorrow the gelcoat will be mixed 50/50 with the Duratec High Gloss Additive and the basecoat will be applied as the flex mold instructions make a basecoat of like and even color a prerequisite before the nonskid pattern is imprinted. So barring any lousy weather I'll get some pictures up of the gelcoated base on the port deck and hopefully the nonskid patterns imprinted next weekend.

 

[jibes138]

Any dark color will get blistering hot in the sun so make it a very light shade. The original shade on my decks get too hot to walk on in the Carolina sun without some kind of footwear.

 

[Panta Rei]

The fun starts!

I'll be out of touch this next week so I will be anxious to see the results of the gelcoat application. Keep one thing in mind, if gelcoat sprayed well they would call it paint. Embrace orange peel and plan on sanding it smooth.
Greg, thanks for the tip on the wiping poly.
Back one step to ventilation.
My tarp also blew off likely in the same storm. This forced me into replacing the gaskets in the Beckson ports as the were hard and flat. Also replaced the screens. My fingers are still aching from the installation. She's now weather tight and need of ventilation. My recommendation for anyone having to do theirs : Sell the boat!
I have a 4 inch diameter hole just aft of the chain locker. It once had a deck plate that was installed improperly and caused a good deal of core rot and delamination.
Would this be a good spot for a solar vent? This area will likely see some water.
Do they have cover for them to make them water tight when needed?

 

[25yearslater]

Good to here from you Todd. My pro said the same about spraying gelcoat. Embrace the orange peel, you can't escape sanding. So here's a few pictures of this morning's festivities. Getting a straight curved line with a little fixture I whipped up. It follows the curvature exactly and the pencil line gives a nice easy line to tape to.

 

[25yearslater]

With this post I am going to conclude today's fun and frolick. I decided to pull the tape as it is apparent the nonskid isn't going to happen this weekend as the gelcoat has to cure 24 hours. I really didn't want to fight removing tape after a week imbedded in gelcoat. I am happy to report the tiny equipment has worked admirably with the basecoat fully applied and fully tack free over most of the area as of now. The 50/50 Duratec and gelcoat mix eliminates the need for wax or PVA as well as styrene thinner to shoot. The little gun with the 2 millimeter needle came through with flying colors. The down side is 8 ounces is the max it will apply before the gelcoat starts to gel. I did have one batch go off in the gun and let me say that's a real joyful event getting it out before it hardens. Make sure the mixing equipment is thoroughly clean between batches and if possible use disposable stuff. My 1 horse compressor came through like a champ delivering 45 psi without any waiting for pressure to build. My conclusion is; it is possible to spray large areas with smaller, and less expensive, equipment. The other situation was getting coverage with the Duratec. Since it is an almost clear additive the full coverage takes some repeated passes. Better to move along and come back after the solvents flash off and even go over the same area a few times with a new batch of gelcoat. By overlapping the areas, coverage is obtained without having to wait around and have a mishap with the gun. 12 minutes is about all you get to use 8 ounces with one refill included. Then it's to the acetone bucket and clean the heck out of the gun. So with the same and even base color applied, here are the pics and I included the equipment to show how small you can get away with.

 

[25yearslater]

For today aside from retaping everything some additions were added. The cabin white stripe measured 2-1/2 inch where everything on the deck measured 2-1/4 inch. Not to be particular but just plain silly I layed everything out to the 2-1/2 measurement. Once the nonskid patterns are imprinted the places where there is blue tape will be sprayed white when the entire cabin is ready. The molds are cut and in place in picture 3 and I'm pleased with the way they are laying down. So for now unless there is a question YOT will await next weekend when success or disaster awaits.

 

[25yearslater]

RTV Urethane mold update. I couldn't wait for the weekend as rain is forecast. So tonight I made the first imprinting using 50% Duratec and 50% gelcoat. The mold back was dusted with talcum powder to prevent dragging of the spreader. The 50/50 mix was too runny but did fill the mold. One other problem was I rushed the process and there were several small areas with air bubbles. The gelcoat wave must be unbroken through the entire process to prevent this. Adding a half inch of sand to the top of the mold proved useful in keeping the mold tight to the deck. The final error was a premature pull of the mold that wiped out a 2 inch by 7 inch area of the pattern. So tomorrow I will try another pour and modify the technique as the mold works extremely well having thus far yielded a nonskid deck in the 70+ percentile. This is definately holding a great deal of promise for a lower cost original deck, once the procedure is worked out I do believe stunning results in the 98 - 99 percentile are achievable. The best part is an unsatisfactory result can be sanded down and is ready to go as there is no wax or PVA involved.

 

[25yearslater]

:dance:I suppose I should be humble, oh to heck with that. Who's your Daddy, whoot, whoot. My name is Joe and I say yo cause it's the only word I know. So for the technical whooey. 10 ounces gelcoat, 2 ounces Duratec High Gloss Additive, 1.5 teaspoons MEKP working at 62 degrees and slowly move the mold into the area to be patterned while keeping a nice wave in front of the curl using a squeeze bottle with a spout. Once the mold was down on the Gelcoat I lightly ran a spreader from the center of the mold to the edges at appproximately a 30 degree angle moving from fore to aft and after one and one half hours damn I'm good. With 4 tiny flaws that the urethane picked up from the flex mold now you too can reproduce a nonskid deck. I used sand once again to prevent edge curl and the mold was lightly misted with Pol-Ease 2300 to prevent the mold sticking. Enjoy the pics and have at it. Sand, rubber and assorted other crud aren't your only options.

 

[jibes138]

Looks great 25

I can't see the pattern of the non-skid in the photo but it looks like you did a great job on this. Perhaps a new career is in order doing this for a living?

 

[25yearslater]

Thanks jibes. The actual pattern is outrageously small and the only way I can get a picture is through a magnifying glass. Paul Lacharite at Minicraft said this is a very delicate pattern and would prove to be a challenge. The post of 4/23/11 shows the pattern photographed through a magnifying glass. The whole section looks exactly like the one in picture one. This was the last unknown in the project and by next week I should be ripping the starboard deck open to see how bad bad can be.

 

[jibes138]

You better hurry up, summer is almost over up north. My grandfather used to say summer was over after 4th of July. That was in Massachusetts, so if you are in upstate NY I'd wager that can be moved up to Memorial Day.

 

[25yearslater]

Sure, rub it in jibes. We know there are two seasons. Winter and the fourth of July. Our secret is we put skates on our sailboats and careen about at breakneck speeds across our frozen lakes. How's that for a sea story? So where was I, oh yeah, 2 of 2 are nonskidded. Once again this crazy pattern is so tiny my camera just doesn't do it justice. Each time I roll back the mold is like Christmas. With each inch coming out fantastic the suspense builds until all is revealed in splendid condition. I gotta get a better camera as this one just doesn't have the resolution. I'll post what I have just the same with the important thing being the results were reproducible. Two down two to go.

 

[jibes138]

Maybe if you get a smaller camera you can take smaller pictures? Or you could hire a professional photographer to take some shots for your advertising brochure?