Anchor locker leak

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Jim D

.
Dec 10, 2007
139
Hunter 410 Maryland
I went to the boat today and I found some water in the V-birth storage area. I have two openings below the plywood decking for the bed. Two areas that have water inside not allot but enough to look for the leak. I do not understand the locker cavity. It has two platforms different levels for the ropes and chain. Between the two there is an open area where I assume the water can enter. I thought this water will be dispersed through the two small holes on the front of the bow. Am I thinking correctly on this? Any have any insight on where I should start to look for the leak? Thanks Jim
 

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Jim D

.
Dec 10, 2007
139
Hunter 410 Maryland
I went to the boat today and I found some water in the V-birth storage area. I have two openings below the plywood decking for the bed. Two areas that have water inside not allot but enough to look for the leak. I do not understand the locker cavity. It has two platforms different levels for the ropes and chain. Between the two there is an open area where I assume the water can enter. I thought this water will be dispersed through the two small holes on the front of the bow. Am I thinking correctly on this? Any have any insight on where I should start to look for the leak? Thanks Jim
 
Jan 4, 2006
6,491
Hunter 310 West Vancouver, B.C.
Jim .......................

............ if you can send a few pics of the inside of your anchor locker from different angles, I may have something you can use. I had the same problem about eight years ago, but not a drop since sealing it. Best regards, s/v Island Hunter
 
Jan 4, 2006
6,491
Hunter 310 West Vancouver, B.C.
Jim .......................

............ if you can send a few pics of the inside of your anchor locker from different angles, I may have something you can use. I had the same problem about eight years ago, but not a drop since sealing it. Best regards, s/v Island Hunter
 
Jul 11, 2007
86
Hunter 44AC Marina Del Rey
Try tightening the toe rail

On my prior H34, I noticed significant moisture on hull insides (damp carpet) as well as the plywood bulkheads adjacent to the hull. I found all of the machine bolts that hold the deck to the hull at the toe rail could easily be tightened as much as 1.5 to 2 full turns. I don't suggest heavy tightening, simply take the slack out and snug them up. This, along with removal and resealing of the sea hood stopped virtually all of the leaks. Good luck
 
Jul 11, 2007
86
Hunter 44AC Marina Del Rey
Try tightening the toe rail

On my prior H34, I noticed significant moisture on hull insides (damp carpet) as well as the plywood bulkheads adjacent to the hull. I found all of the machine bolts that hold the deck to the hull at the toe rail could easily be tightened as much as 1.5 to 2 full turns. I don't suggest heavy tightening, simply take the slack out and snug them up. This, along with removal and resealing of the sea hood stopped virtually all of the leaks. Good luck
 
T

Tim

V Berth Leak

Jim, I had a H34 and now have a 1987 H40 - similar construction. I discovered the source of leaking in the V berth to be the stainless steel plate to which the forestay is attached. The plate had lifted just enough to create a crack between it and the stainless frame underneath allowing water to enter. Caulk took care of the problem.
 
T

Tim

V Berth Leak

Jim, I had a H34 and now have a 1987 H40 - similar construction. I discovered the source of leaking in the V berth to be the stainless steel plate to which the forestay is attached. The plate had lifted just enough to create a crack between it and the stainless frame underneath allowing water to enter. Caulk took care of the problem.
 
B

Benny

I had a similar problem and it ended up being

a somewhat loose bow pulpit anchor. Some caulking and tightening of the nut resolved the problem. Check deck fittings and even the rail for leaks. When in doubt re-caulk and tighten as many as you can get to.
 
B

Benny

I had a similar problem and it ended up being

a somewhat loose bow pulpit anchor. Some caulking and tightening of the nut resolved the problem. Check deck fittings and even the rail for leaks. When in doubt re-caulk and tighten as many as you can get to.
 
Jun 21, 2007
2,107
Hunter Cherubini 36_80-82 Sausalito / San Francisco Bay
Good Suggestions and Here's Another

I have a 1980 H36. By your picture, the bow area construction looks somewhat similar to my boat. The suggestions also were sources of rain water in my v-berth area. Another item I discovered was the electrical wire leading to the bow navigation light. On my boat, the wire is hidden inside the pulpit tubing as it enters the boat's interior through a hole drilled in the toe rail and then through the deck fiberglass. On inspection, I found that the grommet seal had worked loose (and was brittle) allowing rain water trickling inside the pulpit tubing to track down the wire and then into the boat. The bow light wire routing on your boat might be different than through the pulpit tubing, but the wire's exterior to interior interface is an another item to check. Regarding tightening the bolts that fasten the toe rail and deck to the hull, on my Hunter I was able to get a socket on the nut from underneath on most of the bolts. So as not to further harm any remaining sealing effect of the original caulk (if any remained), I had a helper up on deck holding a screw driver in the bolt head to prevent the bolt shaft from turning while I tightened the nut. I am not sure if this makes any difference, but it seemed to be a reasonable safeguard.
 
Jun 21, 2007
2,107
Hunter Cherubini 36_80-82 Sausalito / San Francisco Bay
Good Suggestions and Here's Another

I have a 1980 H36. By your picture, the bow area construction looks somewhat similar to my boat. The suggestions also were sources of rain water in my v-berth area. Another item I discovered was the electrical wire leading to the bow navigation light. On my boat, the wire is hidden inside the pulpit tubing as it enters the boat's interior through a hole drilled in the toe rail and then through the deck fiberglass. On inspection, I found that the grommet seal had worked loose (and was brittle) allowing rain water trickling inside the pulpit tubing to track down the wire and then into the boat. The bow light wire routing on your boat might be different than through the pulpit tubing, but the wire's exterior to interior interface is an another item to check. Regarding tightening the bolts that fasten the toe rail and deck to the hull, on my Hunter I was able to get a socket on the nut from underneath on most of the bolts. So as not to further harm any remaining sealing effect of the original caulk (if any remained), I had a helper up on deck holding a screw driver in the bolt head to prevent the bolt shaft from turning while I tightened the nut. I am not sure if this makes any difference, but it seemed to be a reasonable safeguard.
 
M

mike

leak in bow

I have an h31 which had the same problem. To fix it I removed the toerails and re-did the hull to deck joint which was leaking in the bow and else where. the sealant which was in the joint was shot aand needed replacment. not a costly job but time consuming. I used 5200 in the joint and it stopped the leaks cold. later Mike
 
M

mike

leak in bow

I have an h31 which had the same problem. To fix it I removed the toerails and re-did the hull to deck joint which was leaking in the bow and else where. the sealant which was in the joint was shot aand needed replacment. not a costly job but time consuming. I used 5200 in the joint and it stopped the leaks cold. later Mike
 
K

keith

latch & hinge

look up between the liner and the hull in the v-berth area to where the hinge & latch for the anchor locker would be . If these areas are wet or have stains you may have found your leak (especially the latch hole on the starbord side the wood core gets soaked& may freeze in winter cracking the glass under it to cause a leak) also hoen the access cover on the foward bulkhead in the v-berth reach in & make sure it is dry if not the drain hose from the anchor locker may need replacing or the divider in the anchor locker may need to be removed & the screws holding it down sealed plus all the other areas mentioned by other posters good luck
 
K

keith

latch & hinge

look up between the liner and the hull in the v-berth area to where the hinge & latch for the anchor locker would be . If these areas are wet or have stains you may have found your leak (especially the latch hole on the starbord side the wood core gets soaked& may freeze in winter cracking the glass under it to cause a leak) also hoen the access cover on the foward bulkhead in the v-berth reach in & make sure it is dry if not the drain hose from the anchor locker may need replacing or the divider in the anchor locker may need to be removed & the screws holding it down sealed plus all the other areas mentioned by other posters good luck
 
Jun 21, 2007
2,107
Hunter Cherubini 36_80-82 Sausalito / San Francisco Bay
Deck/Hull Joint OK for Now - But Probably In My Future

Dear Mike: Useful post. Past leaks at the toe rail deck-joint interface are stemmed for the moment. However, I probably have some intrusion that I haven't really noticed; since along much of the boat, water can run directly into the bilge from the hull/deck joint via the gap between the inside of the hull and the interior fiberglass shell insert without causing damage to anything. Nonetheless, I expect that I will decide (i.e. will need) to re-do the joint properly sometime within the next few years. Curious to know how difficult was it for you to separate the joint and clean out the old sealant? Also how consuming was the time? Thanks for the info. regards, rardi
 
Jun 21, 2007
2,107
Hunter Cherubini 36_80-82 Sausalito / San Francisco Bay
Deck/Hull Joint OK for Now - But Probably In My Future

Dear Mike: Useful post. Past leaks at the toe rail deck-joint interface are stemmed for the moment. However, I probably have some intrusion that I haven't really noticed; since along much of the boat, water can run directly into the bilge from the hull/deck joint via the gap between the inside of the hull and the interior fiberglass shell insert without causing damage to anything. Nonetheless, I expect that I will decide (i.e. will need) to re-do the joint properly sometime within the next few years. Curious to know how difficult was it for you to separate the joint and clean out the old sealant? Also how consuming was the time? Thanks for the info. regards, rardi
 

Jim D

.
Dec 10, 2007
139
Hunter 410 Maryland
Wow hunter has a problem

thanks for all the insight. I will check it out. It seems to be a common problem. jim
 

Jim D

.
Dec 10, 2007
139
Hunter 410 Maryland
Wow hunter has a problem

thanks for all the insight. I will check it out. It seems to be a common problem. jim
 
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