alternative charging options?

Jul 7, 2004
8,525
Hunter 30T Cheney, KS
I have a Xantrex Freedom 20 combi inverter/charger. It's probably almost 20 years old. When it works, it seems to function as expected, but it is tripping my shore power GFCI. I've disconnected the AC in and out of the box and the GFCI stays set.
So I'm inferring that the unit is going out. It must be getting sensitive to humidity or something which isn't convenient on a boat!
These things still sell for over $1K! I don't need the inverter feature, I'm just needing a single bank 20 amp charger that would feed my 3 batteries from my main selector switch. Any recommendations ?
 
Jan 11, 2014
13,952
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
The Sterling/Pro Mariner chargers are top notch. I've been very pleased with mine. The Sterling and ProMariner ProNautics are the same charger, different branding and labeling.

Now is also a good time to think about future power needs and battery bank size. If you have flooded lead acid batteries, then the rule of thumb is to get a charger that is 10% of the battery bank size rounded up a size to provide for any electric use while charging, such as lights, stereo, VHF, etc. A 3 group 27 bank would have about 300 amp hours, so a 30 amp should be big enough. If you were considering increasing the size of the bank, then a larger charger would be a good investment.
 

jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
24,455
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
I'm a :plus: for the Sterling charger.
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,757
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
I have a Xantrex Freedom 20 combi inverter/charger. It's probably almost 20 years old. When it works, it seems to function as expected, but it is tripping my shore power GFCI. I've disconnected the AC in and out of the box and the GFCI stays set.
So I'm inferring that the unit is going out. It must be getting sensitive to humidity or something which isn't convenient on a boat!
These things still sell for over $1K! I don't need the inverter feature, I'm just needing a single bank 20 amp charger that would feed my 3 batteries from my main selector switch. Any recommendations ?

Most likely it is wired incorrectly and creating a neutral/ground bond on the vessel side of the GFCI... Nearly 70% of the inverter chargers I see out there are not properly wired, as are a huge percentage of boats in regards to the AC side..

Beyond that your marina should NOT be using a typical 5mA GFCI on a dock pedestal. NEC code is currently requiring 100mA..

All that said, a large current source inverter/charger is not a good idea to leave float charging & unattended. A much smaller charger, rated in the 10-15% of capacity range, is going to be a safer choice..
 
Jul 7, 2004
8,525
Hunter 30T Cheney, KS
This is exactly what I need ! Just need to figure on the size I can get away with. We only have 20 amp service on the docks.
I hate to give up on the Freedom, but it has been in service since '93 and it is killing my shore power.
 
Jan 11, 2014
13,952
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
Just need to figure on the size I can get away with. We only have 20 amp service on the docks.
I can't speak for the inverter size, however, for the charger, 20 amps at 12 v is about 2 amps at 120v. I don't think you can buy or much less fit a modern 12 v charger that would draw 20 amps @120v. The 30 amp ProNauticP only requires a 10 amp breaker on the 120v line.
 
Jul 7, 2004
8,525
Hunter 30T Cheney, KS
Most likely it is wired incorrectly and creating a neutral/ground bond on the vessel side of the GFCI... Nearly 70% of the inverter chargers I see out there are not properly wired, as are a huge percentage of boats in regards to the AC side..

Beyond that your marina should NOT be using a typical 5mA GFCI on a dock pedestal. NEC code is currently requiring 100mA..

All that said, a large current source inverter/charger is not a good idea to leave float charging & unattended. A much smaller charger, rated in the 10-15% of capacity range, is going to be a safer choice..
I hear ya' Main. It's a very confusing problem. The marina I bought it from had 30amp shore power and no shore side GRCI. They never experienced this problem. I've had intermittent issues since day 1 here. The kicker is, it works fine on the trailer in the yard with the same GFCI setup.
I've mentioned this problem on here before. I was suspecting the problem was with the dock wiring. But now with the charger/inverter completely off line and no tripping, I'm back to looking at the boat. The big question: why does it work in the yard and flakey in my slip? I ran my cord to a different pedastal too.
Moisture/humidity sensitive?
Meantime, with the power disconnected, I have no charging :(
 
Jul 7, 2004
8,525
Hunter 30T Cheney, KS
I can't speak for the inverter size, however, for the charger, 20 amps at 12 v is about 2 amps at 120v. I don't think you can buy or much less fit a modern 12 v charger that would draw 20 amps @120v. The 30 amp ProNauticP only requires a 10 amp breaker on the 120v line.
Thanks Dave. Sounds like 30 or 40 amp would be a good fit. I don't need the inverter feature. What I use when we're sailing is all DC. This Freedom requires a 30amp breaker on the panel and 10ga wire to the unit.
 

jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
24,455
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
Justin. You say you have 3 batteries, but what type, how many amp hours, are you planning any changes? All needed info to selecting a charger.
 
Jul 7, 2004
8,525
Hunter 30T Cheney, KS
Most likely it is wired incorrectly and creating a neutral/ground bond on the vessel side of the GFCI... Nearly 70% of the inverter chargers I see out there are not properly wired, as are a huge percentage of boats in regards to the AC side..

Beyond that your marina should NOT be using a typical 5mA GFCI on a dock pedestal. NEC code is currently requiring 100mA..
..
Before I invest in a new charger, I will look to see how they grounded the unit. I.e. what they used for earth ground.
Can you reference chapter and verse on the NEC code for GFCIs? Will the correct rated one fit in a standard 2-gang box?
 
Jan 22, 2008
8,050
Beneteau 323 Annapolis MD
... This Freedom requires a 30amp breaker on the panel and 10ga wire to the unit.
Uummm... you said you only have 20 amps at the dock outlet? Is that a household-type outlet 20 amp outlet, or a twistlock 20 amp?
 
Jul 7, 2004
8,525
Hunter 30T Cheney, KS
Justin. You say you have 3 batteries, but what type, how many amp hours, are you planning any changes? All needed info to selecting a charger.
Hi John. To be honest I'm not sure. They are all the same, just not sure what they are rated at.
 

jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
24,455
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
What group size... 24 - 27 - 30 - 31? (It is a physical dimension)
No labels on the batteries? I am guessing here, each one is a 12 volt? Not a 12 volt starter and two 6 volt Golf Cart batteries?
 
Jul 7, 2004
8,525
Hunter 30T Cheney, KS
Uummm... you said you only have 20 amps at the dock outlet? Is that a household-type outlet 20 amp outlet, or a twistlock 20 amp?
Household. Everyone has to purchase a pigtail to use a standard shore cable on the dock. It worked fine before we evolved to larger 30ish length boats with higher demands, but we seem to be experiencing random issues.
 
Jan 11, 2014
13,952
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
Everyone has to purchase a pigtail to use a standard shore cable on the dock. It worked fine before we evolved to larger 30ish length boats with higher demands, but we seem to be experiencing random issues
Home built pigtail or store bought (Marinco, etc.)? Home made pigtails may not be sealed well enough to prevent slight amounts of moisture entering the pigtail and tripping the GFCI.

The pigtail I use on the 30 amp cord in the yard trips a lot. The cord is good, never trips on the pedestal. I suspect it is the pigtail that is causing the tripping.
 
Jul 7, 2004
8,525
Hunter 30T Cheney, KS
What group size... 24 - 27 - 30 - 31? (It is a physical dimension)
No labels on the batteries? I am guessing here, each one is a 12 volt? Not a 12 volt starter and two 6 volt Golf Cart batteries?
27 I think. All 12v. I thought I had a picture of them before I removed them to get to my holding tank so I could hook them all back up correctly. Heavy suckers!
 
Jul 7, 2004
8,525
Hunter 30T Cheney, KS
Home built pigtail or store bought (Marinco, etc.)? Home made pigtails may not be sealed well enough to prevent slight amounts of moisture entering the pigtail and tripping the GFCI.

The pigtail I use on the 30 amp cord in the yard trips a lot. The cord is good, never trips on the pedestal. I suspect it is the pigtail that is causing the tripping.
Store bought. I replaced my cord and pigtail but it made no difference.
I'm down to what Main said regarding the wiring or the unit itself. Why it works on the trailer with the same setup is the conundrum.
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,757
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
Before I invest in a new charger, I will look to see how they grounded the unit. I.e. what they used for earth ground.
Can you reference chapter and verse on the NEC code for GFCIs? Will the correct rated one fit in a standard 2-gang box?
FWIW I have a Freedom 2000 in my shop that I use for quick charging. It is plugged into a 5mA GFCI and works perfectly.

I will re-post this again. I posted this to you on Jul 24th... If one does not understand the nuances it may be time to bring in a professional.

While your boats leakage could be below 5mA it's not until another boat plugs into the same GFCI "circuit" that the GFCI trips because the cumulative leakage, on that GFCI feed, has now exceeded 5mA and causes the GFCI to trip.

Plugging a vessel into a 15A or 20A household receptacle is NOT proper shore power. This is problem #1.

Problem #2 gets a lot more complex.....

The current NFPA 70 / NEC requirements Article 555 Marinas & Boatyards, which rolled out in 2011, requires a 100mA ground fault protection level for marina dock feeds. In the upcoming 2017 NFPA 70 / NEC 555 this maximum level is reportedly going to drop from 100mA to 30mA. You are trying to plug your vessel into a 5mA trip level GFCI.

(Copy & paste of a previous reply)
The Problem With the New Mandates:

#1 NFPA 70 / NEC requirements do not mandate 100mA or 30mA protection at each dock pedestal, which would be the only prudent way to adopt or phase this into an entire industry where the safety standards are voluntary and arguably grossly ignored.

As I type this I am currently waiting for a customers phone to cool down so we can continue troubleshooting his shore system via video messaging. He is in the BVI and can't find a decent electrician to save his life. So far we've found on-board AC neutral bonded to AC Earth and his two 30A shore inlets have common neutral bonding. Somewhere in his travels he had a failed 8kW generator ripped out, by some hacks, who left a ghost transfer switch and ran the ghost wires to where ever they found an open terminal. It is a freaking mess, a mess I repeatedly tried to talk him into fixing before he headed off cruising, "seems to work" he'd say.... He began complaining of issues when his vessel began tripping up to code marina's and shutting entire docks down. The non-transients at these marinas were none too happy and the marinas finally told him not to plug in..

As a result of NFPA/NEC not requiring 100mA or 30mA ground fault protection at the pedestal level, for each boat, any vessel plugging into a dock pedestal that is protected by an upstream ground fault device can create nuisance trips for every boat on that same feed. This = BAD (safe, but bad)

Shore based ground fault devices that cover multiple pedestals (boats), can result in a nuisance trip that depowers all the boats on that string and create a lost power situation to all of those vessels, just as my customer has done, at no less than 3 or 4 marinas since leaving Maine.

This NFPA / NEC roll out has already cost boaters significant $$ in destroyed battery banks etc.. Unfortunately the boaters who lost out may not have been the ones who created the problem just the recipient of what I often refer to as Darryl & Darryl wiring, for those old enough to get the Newhart reference.. No offense to any Darryl's out there....

The new NFPA / NEC ground fault requirements for marinas is only serving to expose the horrendous wiring that has gone on in the marine industry for far too long. Even if your boat is properly wired, to ABYC standards, you can still suffer the consequences of Darryl & Darryl hack jobbing their own boat because the NFPA/NEC requirement is not at the power pedestal/individual boat level.

For what it is worth I have very infrequently come across an owner who believed it was their boat creating the leakage or corrosion issues. In almost all cases it starts out as "someone else's problem" until the fault is found on-board...

#2 Far too many boats out there are not wired to meet or exceed the ABYC safety standards. The NFPA / NEC could really care less about this, it's not their issue. When you plug an incorrectly wired vessel into the new NFPA /NEC shore standards, requiring ground fault protection, it can now become everyone's issue not just the problem vessel. Incorrectly wired vessels create problems for everyone at an up-to-code marina.

Boats that are not wired to current ABYC standards, as a group, have very, very high ground fault percentages. For example the number of boats I measure with AC grounding (GREEN) and AC Neutral (WHITE) bonded on-board the vessel (A huge no-no) is in the range of 35-40% +/-. This is INSANE, but it is the reality of a voluntary standard that has gone largely ignored by boat owners, or DIY wiring done by local dock-experts who think they know more than the standards organizations, and far too many folks who call themselves marine electricians..

Bottom Line? Improperly wired vessels, vessels not wired to ABYC standards, can cause nuisance tripping of shore ground fault interrupters. This issue will be rarer at 100mA or 30mA and quite a common occurrence at 5mA...

The sheer age of many vessels also means some of them have equipment that is so antiquated that it too creates an inadvertent neutral to grounding bond on-board the vessel. Improperly wired inverters, generators, transfer switches, automotive grade battery chargers, auto grade inverters, improperly wired hot water heaters etc. are all hot button areas where a neutral/grounding bond may be hiding. Some boat owners & terrestrial based electricians have also been known to place a jumper between neutral and grounding bus.

#3 The Rx?

Marina Rx: Marina's who want happy customers should ideally install a 100mA or 30mA ground fault device at each pedestal, not 5mA. The GF device (GF=Ground Fault) should be installed at each pedestal so one boat or transient can not take out an entire dock or entire group of vessels due to dangerous wiring practices. Adding a GF device at each pedestal is in compliance with NFPA 70 / NEC and actually exceeds the minimum requirements.

By installing a ground fault device at each pedestal, this prevents Darryl & Darryl's stellar wiring job from taking out your boat when they create a nuisance trip. These ground fault devices should not be daisy chained to the load side of the GFI and should serve only that pedestal.

Marina's also need to comprehend and understand that GF leakage is additive. If we have ten boats each leaking 4 mA, which is not even enough for each boat to trip an individual 120V 5mA GFCI, those ten boats together can trip a single 30 mA ground fault device.

Marina's should prohibit vessels that cause a nuisance trips, from plugging into their system, until the fault has been corrected. If a vessel is tripping a 100mA threshold device (and this is not due to additive leakage) this creates a very dangerous potential for electric shock drowning.

The issue & mess of nuisance tripping will only get worse when the NEC drops to 30mA in 2017 because the drop does not reportedly require protection at the individual pedestal level. Frustrating to say the least.

Marina's need to fully understand the new requirements and be trained on how to conduct spot audits and to check for individual vessel issues that would otherwise create problems for the rest of their customers. Or do it right and install a 30mA device at each pedestal, this way only the miswired customer is left without power..

When a marina is re-wired, or the wiring touched by a professional, they now need to become in compliance with the current shore based standards. The mandatory shore based NEC/NFPA standards extend to the dock pedestal receptacle, and the voluntary ABYC standards begin at the shore power cord set.

This problem of nuisance tripping is only going to get worse, much worse as time goes on and more and more marinas become in compliance with the NFPA 70 / NEC requirements. Once the code drops to 30mA, to protect multiple pedestals, it will become a complete debacle..



Boat Owner Rx:
Wire your vessel to the current ABYC standards and you will no longer create dangerous situations, power loss or dead batteries for those around you who do have properly wired boats.

Two Easy Tests for 120V 30A Service (these two tests barely scratch the surface but it's a start):

1- Use a high resolution AC clamp meter set to measure A or mA. Extech, Yokogowa and Fluke all make excellent AC leakage clamp testers. Ideally every marina should own one. Power up your on-board AC devices (hopefully all of them) & place the clamp around your shore power cord. The reading should be 0.0A. Any reading above this is indicating an amperage imbalance between the hot and neutral AC conductors and indicating that this missing current is leaking elsewhere eg: into the water..

2- One of the easiest tests or starting points is to physically unplug your vessel from the pedestal and be sure your inverter is decoupled from DC so it does not auto-invert. Make sure any manual transfer switches are set to SHORE. Now test for continuity between AC WHITE/Neutral and AC GREEN/Earth/Grounding pins at the shore end of the cord or at your on-board grounding bus and neutral bus.. There should be no continuity.

If you find issues you are unsure of I would suggest bringing in a professional....