hey everyone, I'm starting to look at acrylic windows for Cool Whip, the supplier lists 3 different thicknesses, ⅛, 3/16 and ¼ of an inch, what thickness would you recommend I go with?
acrylic window thickness
- Thread starter fred1diver
- Start date
I was just talking to our glass guy about what to use as an underwater window in a boat bottom. He said, lexan is nearly unbreakable, if you can seal it in the opening. The 1/4" is pretty light. Thinner and it gets pretty flexible. If you don't need a big piece, you might just be able to ask for a piece of scrap. My glass guy offered to give me some to experiment with. I didn't have the time to do anything with it, otherwise I'd have gladly taken what he had to give me.
-Will (Dragonfly)
-Will (Dragonfly)
There is a great article in Sail magazine by the legendary Don Casey entitled DIY: Replacing Fixed Portlights. Google it and find step by step instructions and materials. He recommends acrylic (plexiglass) over polycarbonate (Lexan). My windows were 1/4 “ so I replaced them with the same.
Depends...
Acrylic VS Polycarbonate | Hydrosight
Acrylics will not flex as much as Polycarbonate.
So thinner on Acrylic windows is ok.
Jim...
PS: Not acrylic
Make sure which plastic window material you use.
Acrylic Sheeting vs Polycarbonate Sheeting - A&C Plastics
Brand names above.
Jim...
Acrylic Sheeting vs Polycarbonate Sheeting - A&C Plastics
Brand names above.
Jim...
Off topic a bit, but this is very cool using Polycarb as a Mirror....
Polycarbonate Mirror Plastic Sheets | Shop Mirrored Polycarbonate & Mirrored Acrylic Sheeting - A&C Plastics
Jim...
Polycarbonate Mirror Plastic Sheets | Shop Mirrored Polycarbonate & Mirrored Acrylic Sheeting - A&C Plastics
Jim...
Lexan is definitely stronger than acrylic, but it is softer (so scratches easier), while acrylic is harder and doesn't scratch as easily. But, Lexan is preferred - especially for hatches where you might step. If you are replacing existing windows, then I'd use the same thickness.
I am preparing to replace several of my fixed portlights and come up with a thickness of 3/8" for all of them.
@fred1diver how are the windows held in on your Grampian? Polycarbonate (Lexan) is susceptible to stress cracking so if you are screwing it in, acrylic is a better choice. Also, polycarbonate is more susceptible to surface yellowing and scratching.
I went with 3/16" acrylic on my C&C27 windows, mostly because that is what was the OEM used and it lasted 35 years.
Make sure you allow a little flex in the mounting to take up the difference in thermal expansions between the frame and the glazing material. Ottawa has a very large temperature difference from above +30 to below -30°C.
I went with 3/16" acrylic on my C&C27 windows, mostly because that is what was the OEM used and it lasted 35 years.
Make sure you allow a little flex in the mounting to take up the difference in thermal expansions between the frame and the glazing material. Ottawa has a very large temperature difference from above +30 to below -30°C.
Only by shape, but don't worry about it if you go with Acrylic. Temperatures changes might cause minor leaks at edges, but only summer to winter changes.
We all suffer that at times in a boats life.
Jim...
Hi Ralph
I replaced most of my fixed portlights last year and will do the remaining two this year. This will leave only the windshield to be done and I have a lead on a local shop that will mold the curve to fit properly. 3/8 was the thickness I came up with. I followed the instructions at Boatworks Today
Tim
I've watched this video several times and then went down the rabbit hole and watched a hour more of DIY boat Videos because of this one.
Find anything outstanding worth sharing ? ? ? ?
I've collected a library's worth of info to date, some of it contradictory. I have to plan the replacement of all fixed port openings as they are starting to show their age.
The most ridiculous one I've seen to date is supposedly by Catalina (paragraph g), although I suspect it's a forgery, it's just so far out there:
Picked this up from another post by some poor guy who had tried this and was ranting and raving about all his ports being crooked plus a couple popped open after a few weeks.
I would say the hardest part of replacing windows is holding them in place while the sealant sets. Mine were pretty easy due to the shape of the frame, I was able to hook onto it to apply pressure. A friend had a heck of a time wedging boards in place with enough pressure to hold the new windows in. 2x4s, diving weights, ropes, widgets, and Rube Goldberg contraptions. So yes, I can believe the instructions.
It is VERY important to follow the adhesive/sealant manufacturer's instructions and make sure you use material compatible with your glazing material and the frame. I had to use primers on mine but it worked well. Also, ensure the frame is clean and free of old sealant.
It is VERY important to follow the adhesive/sealant manufacturer's instructions and make sure you use material compatible with your glazing material and the frame. I had to use primers on mine but it worked well. Also, ensure the frame is clean and free of old sealant.