Looking for ideas for condensate drain not into the bilge. The anchor locker seems like an option as it is just forward of the AC unit which is under the forward bed. What works for you?
Superb comment! Thanks Smokey. Good to see hull #1 is active. I did not know about the Venturi set up and I am glad for your comments. Thank you.You can get a venturi set-up so it goes out with the cooling water. Dometic actually sells them.
My shower sump is small and has a manual pump. #1’s comment below seems like the cat’s meow of a solution to the problem. Thanks for respondingShower sump....
300 Per hour not minute. Will take longer to sink.The Venturi drain system is called a CR 330. It works as described but the key to keeping the water flowing out of the boat and not into it is a small check valve. That check valve fails we not only have a small leak, we have a 300 gpm pump assisting in filling up the boat.
Bottom line for me:It’s a great idea and suggestion but I don’t know how comfortable I’m going to be leaving the AC run unattended.
I’m also trying to beat back the mildew. She was left closed up with a wet bilge in the Texas summer. That is a topic for another thread and another day. For now, I’m just trying to keep the water outside, stop the leaks and bring her back to a baseline.
There is no need for a check valve in this installation. A Venturi valve has no moving parts, is not prone to any mode of failure and can’t possibly back-flow.The Venturi drain system is called a CR 330. It works as described but the key to keeping the water flowing out of the boat and not into it is a small check valve. That check valve fails we not only have a small leak, we have a 300 gpm pump assisting in filling up the boat.
Bottom line for me:It’s a great idea and suggestion but I don’t know how comfortable I’m going to be leaving the AC run unattended.
I’m also trying to beat back the mildew. She was left closed up with a wet bilge in the Texas summer. That is a topic for another thread and another day. For now, I’m just trying to keep the water outside, stop the leaks and bring her back to a baseline.
Hopefully your drip pan will not corrode out.As Don mentioned, there is no way for the condensate drain to sink our boat, it pulls water from the drip pan when the AC cooling water pump is running.
If you read their info, the Venturi will only work in a specified Cooling water flow rate Range.There is no need for a check valve in this installation
See below.There is no need for a check valve in this installation. A Venturi valve has no moving parts, is not prone to any mode of failure and can’t possibly back-flow.
yes. I have one and am contemplating where to put it. I also have the louvered hatch board left over from a previous boat I am going to cut down to fit hatch board three’s position. It might leak under certain rain directions but the Bimini May shade it enough.I would not leave the AC running unattended with the intact value below the waterline either. The domestic product would not sink the boat, that intake value open would with and hose or pump failure.
Dometic Marvair CR330 Condensation Removal Kit - 225600036
The Marvair CR330 removes the condensate water produced during the cooling cycle of your Marvair reverse-cycle air conditioner and discharges the condensate into the air conditioner's outlet water line. Features: The condensate is pumped overboard anwww.defender.com
The PO of my boat installed a product like this in the saloon hatch.
Vetus UFO Deck Vent with Integral Mushroom Ventilator - UFO2
The Vetus UFO 2 Ventilator combines the cover of the low profile UFO deck ventilator with an integral mushroom ventilator. This deck ventilator can be closed altogether and made absolutely watertight when at sea or when power washing the boat. However, whwww.defender.com
Don’t know how the writer imagines a Venturi flowing backwards but he/she wins the prize for defying the laws of physics.See below.
- The check valve allows the condensate to flow in only one direction
- .
First, thanks to all for the posts. They are all helpful to me. During nap time, my brain was contemplating waterlines. My pump is under the galley sink. Your location is better. The AC discharge is above the waterline so if I mounted the CR 330 Venturi there by the AC, it would be above the waterline so would not backflow even if the check valve stuck open. Seems like the most sanitary solution to AC condensate draining. Defender has the unit for $150.00. Going with that solution.My AC unit sits forward of the fresh water tank. The water pump for the AC sits under the drawers in the forward cabin. The condensation pan is above the pump exit line so it naturally drains down. The water exits the hull above the water line next to the anchor locker drain. The system works well. I have never had any issue with it.
Yes, my condensate pan is metal and is showing signs of rust. I haven’t checked how bad it is yet, but I may be able to clean it up enough and coat it with some epoxy barrier coat I have left over. Composite pan is muy bueno.Hopefully your drip pan will not corrode out.
Why would it corrode?
Condensate water is demineralize water and loves to corrode things faster.
Agreed that if the Venturi draw failed, the full pan would over flow to your Bilge Pump.
My new unit drip pan is a composite and not metal.
Jim...
PS: It would take many weeks of condensate water to sink a boat.
I had not heard of eith Damp Rid or Nos guard. Have them in my to do book now.Our boat has the Dometic venturi system and it works as advertised. As Don mentioned, there is no way for the condensate drain to sink our boat, it pulls water from the drip pan when the AC cooling water pump is running. As far as the mildew issue, we spent a couple of days with spray bleach cleaning it away when we first got our boat. Once a year we use the NosGuard Boat Odor Eliminator (chlorine dioxide bombs) to get rid of any lingering mustiness. We keep DampRid bags hanging in her all the time too. Congrats on your boat. You will love it. Used to sail on Lake Hefner a million years ago.
Great post, my setup is identical but my drain is the fwd bilge. I'll look at the drain pain closer now for sure.My AC unit sits forward of the fresh water tank. The water pump for the AC sits under the drawers in the forward cabin. The condensation pan is above the pump exit line so it naturally drains down. The water exits the hull above the water line next to the anchor locker drain. The system works well. I have never had any issue with it.
My current condensate line drain runs to the forward bilge and this keeps the bilge wet. Based on all these comments, using a CR330 Venturi system mounted in the loop by the AC unit under the forward berth, it will be above the waterline. Seems like the most elegant solution for my needs.Great post, my setup is identical but my drain is the fwd bilge. I'll look at the drain pain closer now for sure.