Does anyone know the name/type of lead acid batteries on the 310. Also is there any information out there on them. I may replace my batteries this year and would like to know more so I can make an informed decision. I have the stock batteries.
310 Battery Info
- Thread starter rpwillia
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The stock configuration on my boat (hull#218 is 2003 model) had two group 4D 12 volt deep cycle batteries. I replaced them 2 years ago when I bought the boat, with Exide Nautilus 4Ds. I have since added a third engine starting battery and paralleled the two 4Ds as the house bank. Another option may be to use deep cycle 6v batteries like they use in golf carts (Trojan T105 or similar) which would easier to handle, but I'm not sure if you can fit four of them in the space under the settee.
There is enough space under the settee inboard of the existing batteries for a group 24 starting battery, so once you go to all the trouble of fighting the old ones out, I'd recommend you add the third battery before you put the new ones back in.
There is enough space under the settee inboard of the existing batteries for a group 24 starting battery, so once you go to all the trouble of fighting the old ones out, I'd recommend you add the third battery before you put the new ones back in.
Batteries
I also have a 2003 model 310, hull #231, and I added a start battery circuit, much as Scott did. Probably one of the best upgrades you can add to your boat, especially if you are going to replace your batteries anyway.
In addition, I replaced the 1-2-both battery switch with a switch that isolates the house bank from the start battery. Then I installed an automatic charging relay that first charges the start battery from the alternator, and then automatically charges the house bank. Upon engine shutdown, the start battery is automatically isolated from the house bank. Works great!
I also have a 2003 model 310, hull #231, and I added a start battery circuit, much as Scott did. Probably one of the best upgrades you can add to your boat, especially if you are going to replace your batteries anyway.
In addition, I replaced the 1-2-both battery switch with a switch that isolates the house bank from the start battery. Then I installed an automatic charging relay that first charges the start battery from the alternator, and then automatically charges the house bank. Upon engine shutdown, the start battery is automatically isolated from the house bank. Works great!
Found this info
Thanks the 4d was what I needed. Went online and found at http://www.windsun.com/Batteries/Battery_FAQ.htm#Battery Size Codes
Some common battery size codes used are: (ratings are approximate)
U1 34 to 40 Amp hours 12 volts Group 24 70-85 Amp hours 12 volts Group 27 85-105 Amp hours 12 volts Group 31 95-125 Amp hours 12 volts 4-D 180-215 Amp hours 12 volts 8-D 225-255 Amp hours 12 volts Golf cart & T-105 180 to 220 Amp hours 6 volts L-16 340 to 415 Amp hours 6 volts
Thanks the 4d was what I needed. Went online and found at http://www.windsun.com/Batteries/Battery_FAQ.htm#Battery Size Codes
Some common battery size codes used are: (ratings are approximate)
U1 34 to 40 Amp hours 12 volts Group 24 70-85 Amp hours 12 volts Group 27 85-105 Amp hours 12 volts Group 31 95-125 Amp hours 12 volts 4-D 180-215 Amp hours 12 volts 8-D 225-255 Amp hours 12 volts Golf cart & T-105 180 to 220 Amp hours 6 volts L-16 340 to 415 Amp hours 6 volts
4D AGM batteries
I got AGM batteries from APEX (model U-45965):
http://www.apexbattery.com/universa...battery-group-numbers-group-4d-batteries.html
Expensive, but maintenance free. I've only had them one year, so I cannot comment yet on longevity.
I got AGM batteries from APEX (model U-45965):
http://www.apexbattery.com/universa...battery-group-numbers-group-4d-batteries.html
Expensive, but maintenance free. I've only had them one year, so I cannot comment yet on longevity.
Re Battery Switch
Thanks
Jeff
Tom,,, could you send me the information regarding the type of switch you installed for the batteriesand the automatic charging relay.
Thanks
Jeff
battery switch
Jeff, the battery switch I installed is the Blue Sea Systems 300A e-Series Dual Circuit Plus Battery Switch, part #5511e on page 415 of the West Marine catalog (2008 edition), West Marine #7808801. The automatic charging relay is the BatteryLink ACR by Blue Sea Systems, part #7600, on page 416 of the WM catalog, WM #6917124.
The whole circuit is laid out on page 416 of the WM catalog. Check it out. There are a lot of benefits to this system, the main one being that your start battery is always fully charged!
Jeff, the battery switch I installed is the Blue Sea Systems 300A e-Series Dual Circuit Plus Battery Switch, part #5511e on page 415 of the West Marine catalog (2008 edition), West Marine #7808801. The automatic charging relay is the BatteryLink ACR by Blue Sea Systems, part #7600, on page 416 of the WM catalog, WM #6917124.
The whole circuit is laid out on page 416 of the WM catalog. Check it out. There are a lot of benefits to this system, the main one being that your start battery is always fully charged!
Hi;
I'd like to install your battery upgrade in my 310 #90. A couple of questions:
1. What type of battery tray did you fabricate
2. are you using the single battery charger to charge both house battery and starting battery
3. did you run any new cables from the battery compartment to the engine or electrical panel
4. it looks like you had to cut some of the fiberglass away from the battery compartment. Is that right?
if you have any other information, please send it along.
Thansk,
Mark
I'd like to install your battery upgrade in my 310 #90. A couple of questions:
1. What type of battery tray did you fabricate
2. are you using the single battery charger to charge both house battery and starting battery
3. did you run any new cables from the battery compartment to the engine or electrical panel
4. it looks like you had to cut some of the fiberglass away from the battery compartment. Is that right?
if you have any other information, please send it along.
Thansk,
Mark
Mark
1 Used exiting battery compartment...just fiberglass.
2 Single battery charger, but can charge three battery groups.
3 No new cables from the battery compartment to the engine or electrical panel.
4 No cutting of fiberglass, this is how it came from PO.
paulj :troll:
1 Used exiting battery compartment...just fiberglass.
2 Single battery charger, but can charge three battery groups.
3 No new cables from the battery compartment to the engine or electrical panel.
4 No cutting of fiberglass, this is how it came from PO.
paulj :troll:
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adding a battery
Paul, I see how you added the starter, but I was not sure how you attached your new fuse plate on the port hull. Just epoxy? There is a screw in the middle of the plywood?? Additionally did you add an ACR to your circuit like Tom did. Tom where did you install the ACR in the battery compartment I assume between the starter and the house bank. I think I am going to buy the add a battery kit from blue seas and follow their wiring diagram. I don't have a 2008 catalog from WM so I couldn't find the diagram you were referring to.
Thanks all this site is very helpful to a new 310 owner.
dave in Gig Harbor
Paul, I see how you added the starter, but I was not sure how you attached your new fuse plate on the port hull. Just epoxy? There is a screw in the middle of the plywood?? Additionally did you add an ACR to your circuit like Tom did. Tom where did you install the ACR in the battery compartment I assume between the starter and the house bank. I think I am going to buy the add a battery kit from blue seas and follow their wiring diagram. I don't have a 2008 catalog from WM so I couldn't find the diagram you were referring to.
Thanks all this site is very helpful to a new 310 owner.
dave in Gig Harbor
truckman
I'm at Best Buy waiting fory new coputer to be configured so I thought I would check things out on the web.
Maybe I could sail down to Gig and you could take a look on how I installed the battery.
paulj
I'm at Best Buy waiting fory new coputer to be configured so I thought I would check things out on the web.
Maybe I could sail down to Gig and you could take a look on how I installed the battery.
paulj
Free moorage
Paul, That would be great I don't know if you got my PM regarding your boat. I have been a lurker on this site well before the purchase of my 310 and have enjoyed checking out many of your upgrades and Mods. If you come down to Gig Harbor there is free moorage available at the public dock. Let me know if you do and I'll take you out to dinner. \\
dave
Paul, That would be great I don't know if you got my PM regarding your boat. I have been a lurker on this site well before the purchase of my 310 and have enjoyed checking out many of your upgrades and Mods. If you come down to Gig Harbor there is free moorage available at the public dock. Let me know if you do and I'll take you out to dinner. \\
dave
Your battery mod
Paul, I noted in your reply that you didn't have to add any new cable runs. I looked at mine and it didn't look like I could move the fuse block to port without getting longer cables, but maybe I am not looking at it right.
dave
Paul, I noted in your reply that you didn't have to add any new cable runs. I looked at mine and it didn't look like I could move the fuse block to port without getting longer cables, but maybe I am not looking at it right.
dave
Truckman, I installed the ACR on the bulkhead under the port settee, outboard of the 4D batteries. From there I ran a cable to the start battery under the forward part of the settee. I figured that way, I could service the start battery without messing with the big 4D's. I left the fuse blocks where they are, and ran a cable from one of the blocks to the 'A' terminal of the ACR, to service the start battery. The other fuse block already services the 4D's which are now jumpered in parallel, of course.
The wiring diagram with the ACR kit should be fine. I would recommend going ahead and installing the whole sensing circuit. I recentlly installed the on/off switch so that I could isolate the battery banks when the shore power is plugged in, and the house battery charger is operating. That way, the house charger can charge the banks independantly.
This week, we spent two nights at anchor, and still had plenty of power in the house bank when we raised the anchor. And, of course, the start battery cranked the diesel over better than the 4D's ever did. Definitely a worth-it upgrade!
The wiring diagram with the ACR kit should be fine. I would recommend going ahead and installing the whole sensing circuit. I recentlly installed the on/off switch so that I could isolate the battery banks when the shore power is plugged in, and the house battery charger is operating. That way, the house charger can charge the banks independantly.
This week, we spent two nights at anchor, and still had plenty of power in the house bank when we raised the anchor. And, of course, the start battery cranked the diesel over better than the 4D's ever did. Definitely a worth-it upgrade!
Truckman, I didn't build a tray for the start battery. The battery box for the start battery fits perfectly under the aft portion of the settee. I did epoxy in some fiberglass stiffeners under the battery box to help support the weight of the battery. The stiffeners were left over from another project, and look like 2" angle iron. I also added a couple of padeyes to secure the box in place. Good luck!
Truckman, I meant to say that the battery box fits under the aft portion of the forward section under the settee. I apologize for not posting pictures or wiring diagrams, but my computer skills and equipment are very limited. And I apologize in advance if I don't reply right away. I work on a commercial boat, and sometimes a job will keep us at sea for a week or two, and I don't have access to my laptop.
My understanding is that the house bank should be connected to the alternator output first and then the reserve bank through the ACR. Running all the current through the ACR when the house bank is depleted is unnecessary. Also, the reserve bank is almost always completely full because it only takes the equivalent of about 2 to 5 amp hours to start the engine. You may want to consider making that slight change to your wiring. The downside of the dual circuit switch is that you do not have the operational flexibility of the old 1-2-B switch (like Paul's setup), in that you cannot use the new switch to run (limited) house loads off the reserve bank if your house bank fails. Otherwise, nice upgrade.
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