1990 Hunter 23 (wing keel) Restoration

[Reefing]

Congratulations!!! I am familiar with the area. On my younger days I lived in Boston and kayaked all over the state’s coast.
I have been doing a lot more sailing now and less working and I am having a blast.
Please let us know if you have any questions. You will see a response from Mr Crazy Dave. He is the wizzard and wealth of knowledge who guided me along with others in the group.

 

[wolf1419]

Thank You so much ! I guess the million dollar question is: What is the interior construction of the raised floor and raised sections that hold the wood for the settees [couches/beds], bulkhead walls, etc. ? All the visible areas under the settees, etc. are glassed in except the port/rear section. It was removed previously and reveals a pretty major void along the inside edge. Are the stringers, etc. glassed in before this finished prefab floor is installed at the factory ? If not, water intrusion is an issue [other than typical stress cracks, age, etc. that all boats face]. I will eventually begin a new thread for subjects, but thought this one structural question would fit nicely here, as it will surely affect integrity if that 800lb keel and it's connection.]

 

[Reefing]

Cray Dave will be able to give clear answers but below is my take on your questions.
1. What is the interior construction of the raised floor and raised sections that hold the wood for the settees [couches/beds], bulkhead walls, etc. ? fiberglass mold with gelcoat.
All the visible areas under the settees, etc. are glassed in except the port/rear section. It was removed previously and reveals a pretty major void along the inside edge. Mine had the same gap and I sealed it with a marine resin. Thst area you speak of is where the galley slide goes an for food storage. Are the stringers, etc. glassed in before this finished prefab floor is installed at the factory ? do not know. Mine is not visible. Mine was filled with water and although I have soft spots the area where the keel bolts go is rock solid.

 

[wolf1419]

Thank You for the heads up on your answers to my concerns. Luckily, my keel bolts all look clean and solid. There's a few very minor cracks in the cabin sole and will be addressing that after I let her rest and totally dry out. The keel will be tackled as well. It looked good at first, but has the typical rust looming under the fairing/bottom coats, but still plenty of material left in my keel, thankfully. This will be DIY solutions at keeping rust to the bare minimum.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

Where there is rust even underneath paint? You still need to clean it off

 

[wolf1419]

Thank You CDC. The proper treatment for sure.

 

[kpalm8050]

Hi Forum,
owner of 86 Hunter 23 and read through the posts on this thread. Great job on the restore Reefing.
The post about double clamping the hose that drains water through the hull from the cockpit is especially poignant for me.
Upon launching spring 22 the hose had come off, I had the trailer while my buddy was sailing downriver to marina from public launch.
Long story short he got to the slip and heard water running discovered the problem and stood on the front of the hull to balance boat keeping hull drain hole above water line to prevent further water from coming into hull. There was at least 2.5 feet of water in cabin and water had nearly overtopped 12 volt battery. Laugh about it now but was nervous then. Turned on bilge pump and started hand bailing while he continued standing on bow eventually getting most of water out.

I have some questions but since last post was 2020 wondering if anyone is still available?
Thanks

 

[isaksp00]

A lot of us are still on the forum.

 

[kpalm8050]

Thanks for replying isaksp00. My question concerns the cabin interior, specifically horizonal plywood surfaces for the cabin bunks/benches that are glassed in. Mine are original plywood from 1986 and are getting flexible. These are glassed in and I want to know best method to cut out. Should I leave the 5~6 inches of width that is glassed and cut outside this area. That would entail adding support on top of the bulkhead along cut line before installing new plywood or can I cut closer to the hull and apply new fiberglass. Any suggestions/recommendations are greatly appreciated.

 

[isaksp00]

I have not had to touch the surface pieces over the cabin storage lockers. I did have to replace the bulkhead that is tabbed to the hull that the shroud chain plate is bolted to. If it were my issue, I'd remove the wood up to where it attaches to the hull. I don't recall how these cushion supports attach - are they glasses into the hull? If not, should be easy to remove all of it. If so, I'd use a combination of a cutting wheel in an angle grinder for the coarse work and an oscillating tool like you can get at any big box or Harbor Freight store. The cutting blades for the osc tool flex a bit and let you cut away the epoxy tabbing essentially flush with the hull. If you have to do the whole length of these settees you'll go through a lot of blades. And need a decent respirator mask.

 

[kpalm8050]

that is great to know, will have to wait until it warms up a little as boat is on trailer at marina and temps in Michigan a bit cold this weekend.
Thanks for the sharing your knowledge.