That vinyl rubrail is usually an easily purchased item.
Lots of work there. Not looking forward to going through my Mariner.
-Will (Dragonfly)
1988 O’Day 192 Restoration
- Thread starter GSBNY
- Start date
Lots of work there. Not looking forward to going through my Mariner.
-Will (Dragonfly)
Yup.
Decided to remove the rubrail today and see whats going on. Almost all the screws holding the rub rail on and the hull deck joint screws were loose and prime candidates for leaking. I think I ended up resealing about 70 screws in total. Plus the old sealant used between the hull and deck was shot so I resealed the seam as well.
3 tubes of 4200 later, I was able to get the 32 year old rub rail back on in one piece and it looks like nothing ever happened.
I taped the hull for bottom paint which will happen tomorrow because I need to rest for a while.
The rubrail isn't a terrible job. I replaced a section last year, and used the old black insert. This year, I decided that the rest of the rubrail HAD to be a contributor to some of my leaking, so I ordered up another section and new insert from D&R Marine. When I removed the old rubrail, at Rudy's suggestion, I filled the old holes with 5200. I figured that was a good idea, and it would hold for the rest of my life. I put new screws in, and countersunk and sealed again with 5200, again figuring that would be better than the factory job, and ought to last another 30 years. Came out looking ok. The new style black insert is much wider, covers more of the white rubrail than the old style which stayed between the white extrusion. Found a bit of leaking which I'm pretty convinced was chainplates, so I removed them (good chance to make sure there was no crevice corrosion in the part that went through the deck) and re-sealed with butyl. I'm going to start loading the boat up and figure on launch soon.
That’s the same rubrail I have on my 192. My biggest concern while doing it was cracking the hard vinyl part since it’s so old but luckily it went right back on. I tied it so that it hung just out of the way of the bolts and I had room to work.
I just have a few small things to do and hopefully I can get in the water soon.
It rained hard today, first rain since I resealed the rub rail, and guess what... DRY BILGE!! It’s the first time since bought the boat that the bilge was dry after rain. I’m in complete shock that it’s finally dry.
The one tiny wet spot was from the foam drying out from the last rain before I sealed the rail. The chalk line I drew last night held so that means no new water coming in.
The front hatch did leak a bunch but that’ll be an easy fix.
I also started to refinish the teak toe rails and hatch slider rails. Anyone have any tips on refinishing teak? I’m thinking teak oil.
The one tiny wet spot was from the foam drying out from the last rain before I sealed the rail. The chalk line I drew last night held so that means no new water coming in.
The front hatch did leak a bunch but that’ll be an easy fix.
I also started to refinish the teak toe rails and hatch slider rails. Anyone have any tips on refinishing teak? I’m thinking teak oil.
Decided to change up the bottom paint this season with Interlux AquaOne in black, same color as it originally had from O’Day.
The Interlux AquaOne was great to work with. It thins with water and cleans up very easily with just water, plus no smell. Sanded with 100 grit and put 2 coats on (about 3/4 of a quart). Came out great.
Also finished up the teak with a few coats of teak oil on the toe rails, they soaked it all up. Definitely made a big difference.
The Interlux AquaOne was great to work with. It thins with water and cleans up very easily with just water, plus no smell. Sanded with 100 grit and put 2 coats on (about 3/4 of a quart). Came out great.
Also finished up the teak with a few coats of teak oil on the toe rails, they soaked it all up. Definitely made a big difference.
I’m finally in the water and the boats docked at home after a long long day.
Launched at at the boatyard 10am and leaking by 10:01am. The thru hull knot meter paddle wheel, that I decided to keep even though it leaked last year, was still leaking. This time it was coming in from the threaded cap.
So I motored to my dads house about 1/4 mile away. We pulled the paddle wheel out while in the water, my dad pulled it out and I slapped my hand into place to plug the hole. We stuffed the cap with pump grease which filled the threads and gasket area that were allowing water to pass. Once it was back on, the leak stopped and appears to be good at the moment, there was no leak for about 4 hours that I’ve seen so far. The grease is all over the thru hull so I made my own custom cap for it out of a styrofoam cup. The cup works surprisingly well. I also put a chalk line around it so I can see if it leaks again
Then I had to go get my mast, so I was out for another few miles of motoring to the yacht club. After untangling my rigging for a while I got the mast up and sails on. I made a new forestay, upper shroud, and backstay tail for this season and they tuned up nicely.
Then it was finally time to get Tern home. The wind was up and I was solo with a rig I still need to tweak a bit so I motor sailed with just the jib up.
Launched at at the boatyard 10am and leaking by 10:01am. The thru hull knot meter paddle wheel, that I decided to keep even though it leaked last year, was still leaking. This time it was coming in from the threaded cap.
So I motored to my dads house about 1/4 mile away. We pulled the paddle wheel out while in the water, my dad pulled it out and I slapped my hand into place to plug the hole. We stuffed the cap with pump grease which filled the threads and gasket area that were allowing water to pass. Once it was back on, the leak stopped and appears to be good at the moment, there was no leak for about 4 hours that I’ve seen so far. The grease is all over the thru hull so I made my own custom cap for it out of a styrofoam cup. The cup works surprisingly well. I also put a chalk line around it so I can see if it leaks again
Then I had to go get my mast, so I was out for another few miles of motoring to the yacht club. After untangling my rigging for a while I got the mast up and sails on. I made a new forestay, upper shroud, and backstay tail for this season and they tuned up nicely.
Then it was finally time to get Tern home. The wind was up and I was solo with a rig I still need to tweak a bit so I motor sailed with just the jib up.
About your teak finish. There's a cycle of finishing: varnish, Cetol, teak oil, natural silvered. The order of the cycle can change. I started with silvered, went to Cetol, didn't care for the orange color (I chose the wrong color. But they don't make it easy) and it started flaking off after the second season. Besides, if you have to reapply every year, why not varnish? Then I went to teak oil, and I put many coats on to get a bit of build. But on our freshwater lake, there's some kind of black algae, some call it black mold but I don't think it is, and that black crap LOVES teak oil. So I cleaned it with teak cleaner, and varnished with Epifanes Wood Finish Gloss. We'll see how long I keep with that. Another way to go as recommended by someone I know who lives in FL is Semco Teak Sealer. Goes on like watery, can do with a rag, quick and easy, and keeps it looking tan, water beading off. I guess after I get sick of the varnish, I'll try out Semco.
I’ll have to give that a shot sometime. My teak was natural silvered so I sanded it a bit, used some teak cleaner, and then 2 or 3 coats of teak oil (I think the oil was from Starbrite). The wood really sucked up the teak oil, I’m probably going to put a few more coats on. I’m not against reapplying the teak oil but that Semco sounds interesting for sure. Thanks for the tip.
Thanks so much for posting all this. I just got a 222 this summer and I suspect I'll have more than a couple similar repairs to make. Your work looks great and I appreciate all the progress post you made, very helpful!