1984 Refurbishing Project

dlochner · Jan 31, 2017

Randall Schmidt said:
It has been recommended to me to replace my 1984 Oday mast head light with a sealed unit LED to avoid VHF interference. I noticed many offering steaming (225 degrees) and anchor (360) features. I assume I will need to run an added wire for this feature and a switch on the electric panel. I'm not at the boat to be able to see if there a switch labeled like that and I only got the boat last April so have not had a chance to use the lights - they have a short and trip the switch when turned on. Is a steaming light required? Am I likely to have it already in the boat since it was built?

The steaming light is only necessary if you are motoring at night. Most regulations don't call it a steaming light, that's the generic term, you will see them referred to as masthead lights in the catalogs and in the regulations. A popular solution is to have a combination Masthead/Foredeck light. This is a popular one: https://shop.sailboatowners.com/prod.php?508/Series+25+Combined+Masthead/Foredeck+Light An LED light is not needed for the this application because, the light is only used when motoring and and when the motor is running, the alternator is making the electricity, unless you have an outboard.

At the top of the mast is the white 360 degree anchor light. Because this light will be one over night and drawing down the battery, an LED light is highly desirable. This light is only necessary if you are anchoring out at night.

The masthead/foredeck light will require triplex wire, i.e., 3 wires, one for the masthead light, one for the foredeck light, and a common ground, and 2 switches or circuit breakers. The anchor light only needs 2 wires and one switch.

Running new wires while the mast is down is a pretty easy task and it is a pretty safe bet that the wires in the mast are nearing the end of their life. It would be worth your while to run new wire with proper heat sealed connectors.

As with all things marine, shop around for the best prices. Sailboatowners.com, Defender.com, GenuineDealz.com, and waytekwire.com will have some of the items you are looking for.

dlochner · Jan 31, 2017

The 225* Masthead light could be at the top of the mast, but doesn't need to be. Usually the combination units (Masthead/foredeck) are on the front of the mast a foot or so above the spreaders. Take a look at other boats in the marina. The terms can be confusing which is why "Steaming Light" has come into the vernacular, because that light is only used when steaming or under power (probably harkens back to the advent of steamships), with that said, masthead light refers to a white forward facing light that completes the 360* white light circle required for boats under power. The remaining part of the white light circle is completed by the stern light.

There is another type of light that goes at the top of the mast, commonly referred to as a Tricolor. These lights have the required red and green facing forward and a white 135* light showing aft. On top of those lights is an 360* anchor light. The tricolor is only allowed while sailing, not motoring.

This article may be helpful: Light Up The Night - Seaworthy Magazine - BoatUS

HMT2 · Jan 31, 2017

Randall, I have an '83 Hunter it came with an anchor light (at the top of the mast) and a steaming light that was part way up the mast. When I replaced my standing rigging I replaced the steaming light with a steaming/deck light combination. As DL indicated it will require running additional wire. The next time my stick is down I am going to replace my anchor light with the Marinebeam. LED discussed in this thread. I do just enough offshore sailing that it makes sense to me. https://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?threads/marinebeam-does-it-again.182610/#post-1341170

Scott T-Bird · Jan 31, 2017

I read your questions about replacing the standing rigging. At 33 years of age, I think that you should do this as a priority. My boat is a 1984 and the standing rigging is probably original, except for the headstay (that I replaced 10 years ago). My boat was on a small freshwater lake while she was in my possession, so I never worried very much. Now that I have her in salt water and plan on trips outside the inlet, I am replacing all standing rigging this winter while the mast is down this year only. If you don't plan on taking the mast down again in the near future and your trips are anticipated to be in conditions where failure is a more dangerous proposition, you'd be wise to not take any chances on 33 year old rigging. That's what I think, anyway.

justsomeguy · Jan 31, 2017

Randall Schmidt said:
The next step is for me to go to the boat and determine how to remove the existing traveler.

I'd start with those screw heads visible in one of your photos.

dlochner · Jan 31, 2017

Randall Schmidt said:
should I use the BoatLIFE Life-Calk as sealant when I redo the beck son port light gaskets?

NO! This is the one application where a marine grade silicon caulk is appropriate. Polysulfide and plastics don't get along.

As for your traveller. Look underneath in the cabin, are there plastic plugs in the headliner? Or a plastic plate? If so, take them out and you will probably find the other end of the bolt.

justsomeguy · Feb 1, 2017

Randall Schmidt said:
Asked local rigger and he said that is about a $4,000 luxury for a 28 foot boat.

While the cost estimate seems extreme, I agree with the gist of the rigger's thinking.

Randall Schmidt said:
Also I have a spinnaker but no spinnaker pole.

What type of spinnaker, asym or symmetric?

njlarry · Feb 1, 2017

Are you sure about that DL? I understood only silicone works on lexan and acrylic. I used dow 795 on my fixed ports. But for the opening port frames I would use boat life or butyl.

jibes138 · Feb 1, 2017

A whisker pole might be 900 bucks, no way it is $4000 get a new rigger if that is his estimate, sounds like he marks up parts 400%.
You should have cover plates inside the cabin roof underneath that raised platforms the traveler attaches to. Remove the plates and you should have access to the bolt that holds the traveler on.

dlochner · Feb 1, 2017

njlarry said:
Are you sure about that DL? I understood only silicone works on lexan and acrylic. I used dow 795 on my fixed ports. But for the opening port frames I would use boat life or butyl.

Assuming that the port is a Beckson port their instructions are to use only 100% Silicone. Port Installation by Beckson (scroll down a way to the middle of the page to see the recommendation).

If the port is a flat piece of lexan or acrylic then something like Silpruf or comparable product is OK. These are not your typical hardware or marine store silicones. They are designed to install plate glass windows in buildings, they are more adhesive and have better weather resistance. Weatherseal - GE SCS2000 SilPruf - VOC, Elongation - GE Sealants

dlochner · Feb 1, 2017

Randall Schmidt said:
I do not have a whisker pole for wing-on-wing downwind sailing. Asked local rigger and he said that is about a $4,000 luxury for a 28 foot boat. Guess that goes off the list. Also I have a spinnaker but no spinnaker pole. I'd think if I had one pole I could use it for both purposes but expect that to be too much of a luxury cost as well. Any advice on these? On my prior oday 25 I had a whisker pole I kept in the cabin and attached to a single ring link fitting on the mast when I needed it. It did the job.

The rigger is correct, for your boat at this stage spinnaker gear is an expensive luxury. However there are options.

One option is an ATN Tacker. Relatively inexpensive at $150, it allows a spinnaker to be flown without a spin pole.
The Tacker | No Boom Spinnaker Handler | ATN Sailing Equipment I have one with a symmetrical spinnaker, it is easy to use and improves off wind performance. Combine it with a spinnaker sock and you'll have a nice inexpensive downwind sail, albeit with performance that is not as good as conventional spinnaker with pole, but much easier to set, douse, and gybe.

Another option is to scrounge for a pole. eBay, Bacon Associates, and other outlets may have used poles. Or, find a damaged pole and strip the end fittings and purchase an aluminum pole. Be creative not everything needs to come from West Marine.