1981 Hunter 30 main sheet / traveler / boom rigging

Oct 9, 2013
21
Hunter 30 Lusby, MD
No boom hang.
Yes roller furler with 150% jib
No other sails.

How is your fuel tank?
If it is still the original aluminium tank strapped flat to the plywood shelf, you should consider checking it for pitting.
 
Jan 4, 2020
43
Hunter HC 30 Washington, NC
No boom hang.
Yes roller furler with 150% jib
No other sails.

How is your fuel tank?
If it is still the original aluminium tank strapped flat to the plywood shelf, you should consider checking it for pitting.
Tanks appears to have been replaced. Was just down there today pumping the old fuel out by hand.

My boom nor mast nor mast base appears to be set up for a vang, but I have a rig for it. I think he picked up some extras and never got around to installing them.
 
Jan 4, 2020
43
Hunter HC 30 Washington, NC
On the bow, do you have two hooks, they look like reefing hooks you would find on the goose neck.... ??
 
Oct 9, 2013
21
Hunter 30 Lusby, MD
Good idea to put fresh fuel and filters.
I believe the hooks on the bow are used for hank on jibs.
I don't use them because I have a furler.
 
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dLj

.
Mar 23, 2017
3,372
Belliure 41 Sailing back to the Chesapeake
I believe those are for reefing jibs. Hank-ons sometimes have reefing like your main sail. You should have two of those on the boom where it connects to the mast also.

dj
 
Oct 9, 2013
21
Hunter 30 Lusby, MD
Below pic shows the two mast halyards.
The one on the winch is the main and it comes out the back of the mast head.
The other one is routed out the front and we use it to haul the dingy onto the fore deck and when we climb the mast.
The blue line running down the side is the roller furler.

I also just replaced the life lines and have lots of the little plastic bushings for the lower line stantions.

82Hunter30-Halyards.jpg
 
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Nov 4, 2018
2
Hunter 30 Bedford
You’ve picked up a great boat and it looks like it has been very well maintained.

I have a 1982 H30. I see from a couple of the cabin photos that you have the same stainless steel threaded rods below the chain plates that are in my ‘82. They run from the chain plates to a 2x2 steel tube cross rib glassed to the hull and running across under the sole and compression post with a welded vertical 2x2 tube and base plate at the center in the bilge. The lower half of the vertical tube and base plate are glassed in, but moisture gets in and the post corrodes. Fortunately, the tube is pretty thick walled, but it is the most vulnerable part. How does it look? Steel expands to about 12 times its size when it oxidizes, so it can look worse than it is. For those with earlier models, this what Hunter replaced the infamous I-beam with in later years, but they effectively changed the whole rig. If you think of how the cross rib, ss rods, chain plates, shrouds and mast all work together, it’s kind of like a big tensioned bow & arrow.

I don’t know what year they switched rig design. I was beginning to think the ‘82 was the only model year with this design, but yours is an ‘81. Anyone with a 1980 model: Do you have the I-beam or SS rods and steel tube rib & post?
My 1980 H30 had the I beam under a 4” x 4” wood post offset to port by several inches. I tore out the whole mess in consultation with John Cherubini Jr. and made a new wooden base to support a 4” aluminum square tube. My chainplates were simply through bolted to plywood knees tabbed to the hull which had all but disintegrated. I’m blogging the whole adventure @ restoringbliss.home.blog if you’re interested.
 
Aug 10, 2010
104
Hunter 36, Quarter Berth Model Placid Harbor, Cuckold Crk, Patuxent River
This post motivated me to make some "upgrades" to the H36 main sail control (or lack thereof) that I have dealt with for some time. First "easy" project was to make an outhaul that actually worked. The stock car that the mainsail clew was attached with is nice, but it doesn't move at all when the sail is under a load, essentially making the outhaul useless. So I removed it and attached the clew to the boom with a simple home-made clew strap. Works well. Ideally I'll need to use a longer line for the outhaul to make it reach the cockpit, but that will entail a boom removal since the outhaul block and tackle are all internal...maybe over the winter.
Next was to install a boom vang. I had a rope-vang that I used to use by simply attaching one end to the boom and the other to the toe rail when down wind, but it was clunky and a bit of a pain, I also didn't like the fact that if I accidentally jibed it would interfere with the life lines. So using a design I found here: 8:1 and 20:1 Cascaded Boom Vang I decided to make my own more "permanent" vang. I installed a "temporary" strap on the boom with a climbing strap from Amazon, used a low cost, low friction climbing ring for that first cascade. Then made up some Amsteel lines, using 1/4" and 3/16" diameters (the larger diameter is used for the first cascade since it will endure a higher load I think). One of them is run through a small low-friction loop (could have used another cheaper ring from Amazon but I had this one on hand). Then I used a small double block with a becket setup for the final run with 3/8" line which goes to the cockpit line clutch (new from Garhauer).
At the base of the mast I installed a rail with holes for mounting blocks, and a 4-screw mounting plate for the two, fixed, Amsteel lines. Hope that makes sense as the picture may be a bit convoluted.
Eventually I'll replace the temp strap on the boom with an internally mounted fastener, but they are overpriced for what they are and the strap seems to work well since it's "captured" by a small cleat mounted to the underside of the boom. Overall it works pretty well, unfortunately I haven't been able to try it out for long legs in a run in high winds, but I was surprised at how well it keeps the boom down...
Am I faster now? Maybe, but it gives me two more things to constantly adjust further driving my wife crazy with my ADD habits!
 

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