Would you have to pay duty if you ordered from South of the border? http://www.onlineoutboards.com/Nissan-9-8-hp-Outboards.html
1973 Catalina 22 restoration winter project
- Thread starter whatcaneyedo
- Start date
After a lot of flip flopping I finally made my outboard choice. Here is the new to me 2007 9.9 extra long shaft electric start high thrust Yamaha. I know its more power than what I will likely ever need on the lake but now I will feel a little more comfortable when I eventually take a trip to the ocean. The price I paid for it used was the same as what a brand new Tohatsu sailpro would have cost me here so maybe I did alright. My bracket is rated for 20hp or 115 lbs but I'll be sure to add some additional reinforcement to the transom when I begin putting things back together. I also need to buy some touch up paint... I don't know why some people are so rough with their stuff.
The cockpit floor is also glassed over but I'm debating whether I should sand it down so that its perfectly smooth or just leave it slightly rough for better traction like it is right now.
After crawling around in every nook and cranny of this boat I'm getting a really good appreciation for what everything is and how it was installed except this. Does anyone know what this was for?
The cockpit floor is also glassed over but I'm debating whether I should sand it down so that its perfectly smooth or just leave it slightly rough for better traction like it is right now.
After crawling around in every nook and cranny of this boat I'm getting a really good appreciation for what everything is and how it was installed except this. Does anyone know what this was for?
Man, only an idiot wouldn't know what that is.
That said, I have no idea what it did. It's not factory, and I sat here and looked at it for five minutes and tried to decide WHAT you could do with it. Wet locker hanger? I dunno. If you can't find a use for it, cut it out. Frank and the gang didn't put it there.
VERY nice engine though. Unless there is just something wrong with it, you will be more than thrilled with your acquisition. That thing will be the pride of the boat.
I've said this before, but never once in my life, car, truck, plane, boat, anything, have I ever heard, "You know, I really wish I had a little less horsepower".
That said, I have no idea what it did. It's not factory, and I sat here and looked at it for five minutes and tried to decide WHAT you could do with it. Wet locker hanger? I dunno. If you can't find a use for it, cut it out. Frank and the gang didn't put it there.
VERY nice engine though. Unless there is just something wrong with it, you will be more than thrilled with your acquisition. That thing will be the pride of the boat.
I've said this before, but never once in my life, car, truck, plane, boat, anything, have I ever heard, "You know, I really wish I had a little less horsepower".
I think it's the secret lever that deploys the hydrofoils, cooler full of ice cold beer and the Swedish bikini team.
Give it a pull!
Give it a pull!
The rod is beside the keel winch and scuppers. The blurry left side of the picture is the keel cable hose (from the previous owners hot tub store). Do those wood blocks bolted through the bulkhead that the rod is attached to serve a purpose? On the other side it looks like the spot where the battery used to be.
Next weekend a neighbour is going to drop in with some heavy equipment to give us a hand lifting the boat off of the trailer. I've made up some wood supports for the underside, one for the bow and one for the stern. We're going to block up the stern and then wrap a sling under the bow, lift it, pull the trailer out and then set the bow on its support. I had wanted to follow the method so often suggested here to drop the keel while still on the trailer but this is not the original factory trailer and it simply does not provide the space needed to get that slab of metal out nice and neat. By doing it this way we should be able to wheel my keel cart up underneath with a jack, pull the bolts, detach the cable and lower it to the floor with nothing in the way.
Next weekend a neighbour is going to drop in with some heavy equipment to give us a hand lifting the boat off of the trailer. I've made up some wood supports for the underside, one for the bow and one for the stern. We're going to block up the stern and then wrap a sling under the bow, lift it, pull the trailer out and then set the bow on its support. I had wanted to follow the method so often suggested here to drop the keel while still on the trailer but this is not the original factory trailer and it simply does not provide the space needed to get that slab of metal out nice and neat. By doing it this way we should be able to wheel my keel cart up underneath with a jack, pull the bolts, detach the cable and lower it to the floor with nothing in the way.
The wood blocks are an add on as well, they're not currently doing anything. Nor do they really appear to be hurting anything either. If they're not in the way of anything you plan to do, just leave them..
Maybe the PO was nervous about the battery moving, so he kinda built a box and bolted it down. I'd remove it. It's just one more thing to catch your hand or head on when you gotta reach or look under there. I know I get plenty of little nicks from jagged edges and bolts sticking out.
Andrew
Andrew
It was a busy couple of days here in the frozen north. We blocked up and supported the transom, then wrapped a sling around the bow, lifted the boat off of the trailer with the neighbours backhoe, then set the bow down on some blocks and shimmed everything snug.
With the bottom clear we were able to lower the keel into the cart to finally see how bad the pivot area was. It turns out it was pretty bad! But at least all of the keel hanger bolts came out nicely without breaking or stripping!
Next we wheeled the keel outside where I spent 5 hours grinding off 3 layers of bottom paint, some filler and numerous patches of rust. Tomorrow I'm going to finally find out what it will cost to fix the hole from one of our local machine shops. The number one idea I've heard so far is that they will bore out a larger hole, cut an oversized bushing to fit in it, press and weld the bushing in place, then drill a new hole for the new pivot pin (and stainless steel bushing).
Oh and earlier I was feeling a little sick of all of this fiberglass and metal so I made all new replacement compartment covers with some 1/2" oak then painted them with more Cetol Marine.
I'm also going to take advantage of the boat being off of the trailer bunks by applying some new bottom paint... more pictures to come.
With the bottom clear we were able to lower the keel into the cart to finally see how bad the pivot area was. It turns out it was pretty bad! But at least all of the keel hanger bolts came out nicely without breaking or stripping!
Next we wheeled the keel outside where I spent 5 hours grinding off 3 layers of bottom paint, some filler and numerous patches of rust. Tomorrow I'm going to finally find out what it will cost to fix the hole from one of our local machine shops. The number one idea I've heard so far is that they will bore out a larger hole, cut an oversized bushing to fit in it, press and weld the bushing in place, then drill a new hole for the new pivot pin (and stainless steel bushing).
Oh and earlier I was feeling a little sick of all of this fiberglass and metal so I made all new replacement compartment covers with some 1/2" oak then painted them with more Cetol Marine.
I'm also going to take advantage of the boat being off of the trailer bunks by applying some new bottom paint... more pictures to come.
Oh man. You were just a short short from losing that keel. Nothing a new bushing and keel pin won't fix though.
Looks like you've got a nice place to work on it though.
Looks like you've got a nice place to work on it though.
What a beautiful place to go lose a day puttering around the boat! Great work and I'm thinking we may have found the next Chip Ford...
You have a good eye. It took me a while to find the picture I captured my fathers garden windmill in. It used to belong to my grandfather but the base was all rotten. Since we never throw anything out... he was ripping off all of the old wood, replacing it with pressure treated and then giving it a new paint job.Hey, wait just a second... is that windmill thing a new prop design???????????
I've already got the new keel hanger, pin and bushing from Catalina Direct. I placed an order late last year for it, a new mahogany and ash tiller and mast base. Towards the spring once I start getting everything back together I'll have to do a larger order somewhere in the vicinity of $1500 for some new hardware and rigging. Replacement lower shrouds with new spreader brackets, the bow eye rebuild kit plus stem reinforcement assembly and the external halyards to cockpit with cleats kit make up the bulk of that cost.
I've been looking closely at everything on CD and compiling a wish list of 'maybes' and 'must haves'. My goal is to be able to sail this comfortably single handed so I could use some suggestions on additional rigging upgrades. Currently the boat just has basic rigging, some of the wire looks pretty old which is why I want to replace the shrouds and wire halyards but the lines and blocks are quite new.
I'm trying to restore and equip this boat for under $10,000. So far the initial purchase price plus the outboard and the few things that I've bought so far have put me at $7000. Going forward I think (hope) I can get away with an annual budget of $1000.
I like your thinking! But I also have no idea what that level is for. I would just leave it alone until one day you will get the uereka notion & wonder whay you hadne't thught of it before. Cheers.
Here are some new progress pictures from this week. I got the keel hole repaired at a local machine shop for a painful $670 so now I'm really starting to feel like Chip Ford. They built up the area with what I think was stainless steel and then drilled the original hole a little larger for the sacrificial bushing. My poor little truck had some excellent traction on our icy roads with all of that extra weight.
Once I got it back to the shop I stripped off the rust again and attempted to fare it with a two part marine epoxy for metals that I picked up at our local marine supply store. Despite its wet glossy look it was a real effort to spread around... and I still need to do the other side. Once that has cured and I've sanded it I'll go over it with the same west systems epoxy that KingAirDriver used.
I also painted most of the bottom and the rudder with some antifouling paint. I even went so far as to jam the roller up into the keel trunk so that everything looks nice and black. Once the boat is back up on the trailer I'll do the bow and transom.
Once I got it back to the shop I stripped off the rust again and attempted to fare it with a two part marine epoxy for metals that I picked up at our local marine supply store. Despite its wet glossy look it was a real effort to spread around... and I still need to do the other side. Once that has cured and I've sanded it I'll go over it with the same west systems epoxy that KingAirDriver used.
I also painted most of the bottom and the rudder with some antifouling paint. I even went so far as to jam the roller up into the keel trunk so that everything looks nice and black. Once the boat is back up on the trailer I'll do the bow and transom.
Looking great! Don't bother going real crazy fairing that keel. Get it close enough and call it good!
I am real surprised y'all bottom paint and leave your rudders in the water....I always pulled the tiller off, put it under the quarter berth and pulled the rudder off and put it on the floor when we were done sailing. I couldn't justify leaving it to get beat up by waves and wake when it only took 30 seconds to remove it.
I am real surprised y'all bottom paint and leave your rudders in the water....I always pulled the tiller off, put it under the quarter berth and pulled the rudder off and put it on the floor when we were done sailing. I couldn't justify leaving it to get beat up by waves and wake when it only took 30 seconds to remove it.
I do, but I'm just exceptionally lazy. The rudder has Awlgrip on it, and you can't shoot a hole through this stuff..
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I may just take mine off when I'm done with it as well. But for now I wanted to slap some paint on it because the old paint was looking pretty crappy.
I haven't got much to report on after this weekend. After a lot of sanding the cockpit area is almost ready for washing and painting, the other side of the keel has been epoxied (I've sanded the other side but didn't take a picture yet), and we finally got the rest of the windows out. A local shop quoted me $250 to tint them... so I'll be pulling them apart and doing that myself as well. I've also included some pictures of my repair job of the sliding hatch. The edge had worn down so thin that it looked like it was about to let go. So I beefed it up with some fibreglass and resin.
