Catalina 22 (fixed keel) rust weeping & crazing on the hull. Cosmetic or structural?

[PCLP]

Looking at a Catalina 22 (fixed keel), freshwater, just hauled and on the hard. Photos below of the hull and keel.


I’d love the read of people who know these boats:

1. From what you see, how’s the overall condition of the hull and keel?
2. Anything here that’s a red flag vs. normal wear for a 50-year-old boat?
3. What should I check next before ?

Thanks in advance.

 

[Don S/V ILLusion]

Looks like 90% of the older boats in any marina. For a “50 year old boat”, consider yourself lucky.

 

[TOSCO]

The rust on the keel of the Catalina 22 comes from the cast iron keel. It is covered with epoxy which is all cracked, so the water soaks through to the cast iron. When you tap around the rust spots, it might sound hollow which means the epoxy is not adhering to the iron and is hiding more rust. It will only get worse. The fix is to sand/grind off the epoxy (and anti-fouling). After sanding with very course sandpaper on my palmsander, I bought a small sand blaster and blasted all the rust off the bare metal. Then, applied new epoxy to patch the bare metal. Then, applied 2 coats of Interprotect 2000 sealer and then 2 coats of Micron CSC anti-fouling. Materials cost about $1,200. Labor about 2 days. The next year, I had no rust and did not even need to re-coat with anti-fouling.

 

[PCLP]

The rust on the keel of the Catalina 22 comes from the cast iron keel. It is covered with epoxy which is all cracked, so the water soaks through to the cast iron. When you tap around the rust spots, it might sound hollow which means the epoxy is not adhering to the iron and is hiding more rust. It will only get worse. The fix is to sand/grind off the epoxy (and anti-fouling). After sanding with very course sandpaper on my palmsander, I bought a small sand blaster and blasted all the rust off the bare metal. Then, applied new epoxy to patch the bare metal. Then, applied 2 coats of Interprotect 2000 sealer and then 2 coats of Micron CSC anti-fouling. Materials cost about $1,200. Labor about 2 days. The next year, I had no rust and did not even need to re-coat with anti-fouling.

Very helpful! Thank you so much. While I’m at it, I might as well ask if you see anything worth noting in the pictures of the waterline and seacocks.

 

[Davidasailor26]

Very helpful! Thank you so much. While I’m at it, I might as well ask if you see anything worth noting in the pictures of the waterline and seacocks.

I don’t see anything too remarkable about the waterline. There’s some kind of ridge along it that looks like maybe it was repainted at some point, and the edge of the previous topside paint was left proud underneath, but nothing too concerning. The other two pictures are of the depth and speed transducers, not seacocks. Nothing is strikingly wrong with them, but you’d need to power up the instruments to know if they work.

 

[PEBI]

The pictures of the crackling and bubbling of the paint. This looks like a winter storage issue correct? Or you impropelly applied the paint. Or it's just an issue of dry dock in cold winter enviornment like -15'C. From cold to Hot and back and forth will cause this. Anyone else agree? Or am I alone in this.

 

[PCLP]

The pictures of the crackling and bubbling of the paint. This looks like a winter storage issue correct? Or you impropelly applied the paint. Or it's just an issue of dry dock in cold winter enviornment like -15'C. From cold to Hot and back and forth will cause this. Anyone else agree? Or am I alone in this.

It is stored outside during the winter. Could you please tell me more about what you see in the pictures? Perhaps you could point out what you're referring to in my photo?

 

[PCLP]

I don’t see anything too remarkable about the waterline. There’s some kind of ridge along it that looks like maybe it was repainted at some point, and the edge of the previous topside paint was left proud underneath, but nothing too concerning. The other two pictures are of the depth and speed transducers, not seacocks. Nothing is strikingly wrong with them, but you’d need to power up the instruments to know if they work.

Thank you for your input, much appreciated! I'll make sure to power up the instruments.

 

[PEBI]

It is stored outside during the winter. Could you please tell me more about what you see in the pictures? Perhaps you could point out what you're referring to in my photo?

I assume you give me permission to photoshop your images. Here goes.

I hope this clears things up. Major cracking of paint. This is bad on any surface.

You can google why paint blisters and bubbles like this. Keep in mind global warming. And of course cold weather to warm weather.

 

[Davidasailor26]

I assume you give me permission to photoshop your images. Here goes.

View attachment 240364

I hope this clears things up. Major cracking of paint. This is bad on any surface.

View attachment 240365

You can google why paint blisters and bubbles like this. Keep in mind global warming. And of course cold weather to warm weather.

Looks to me like the kind of thing that happens to antifouling over the years. Not a significant problem. As long as antifouling isn’t flaking off it’s generally fine to lightly sand and then apply another coat with a compatible paint. It’s not like the antifouling is there to provide any strength or water barrier. Eventually, after more years, it loses its adhesion to the surface and starts coming off in flakes. Then it’s best to sand more aggressively, media blast, or use a chemical stripper to remove everything loose, smooth the surface, and start fresh.

 

[JBP-PA]

This crack doesn't look right to me. Especially at the trailing edge. I'd like to sand down the paint, and barrier coat if necessary, to see how deep it goes.