Need Help, Epoxy recommendations - Keel and Tabbing repair

[Carl Wonderful]

This is two different types of repairs and probably best to use two different products. For the keel repair you’re on the right track - clean off the rust and get to bare metal. Some people use a metal treatment like Ospho to convert any last traces of rust to stable metal. I skip that step on my iron keel, but it can help ensure you have a good surface for the epoxy to bond to. After that, and quickly before any new oxidation can form, you coat the keel with a barrier coat epoxy. Barrier coats are epoxy with specific fillers to help build up the right thickness while remaining waterproof. Interlux Interprotect or TotalBoat Total Protect are probably two of the most common for this. If the surface is rough after removing the rust you could apply an epoxy fairing compound like Total Fair to smooth the surface after the first coat of barrier coat. Then build up more coats of barrier coat to ensure the surface is waterproof. The product instructions will say how many coats and the target thickness.

For the tabbing repair you’ll probably be using a more structural epoxy without filler. West Systems and TotalBoat each make good products for this. West Systems has a guide that goes into a lot more detail on this type of repair and that’s a good reference, and TotalBoat has some guides and videos as well. Since you’ll be in colder temperatures you’ll want the fast hardener for whichever product you choose, but even then you’ll need everything to be at least 40 degrees for a proper cure.

Great advice and very specific like I needed so thank you!.

So after I get all rust off, (maybe add rust inhibitor but maybe not necessary..) apply a quick barrier coat (Total protect) right away, then fairing (Total fair) to fill/smooth things out, then more (3...4..?) coats of barrier paint (Total Protect) ...then what? Am I good to go?
Should finalize the keel with some sort of final paint?

 

[jssailem]

In your area I would seek local support as to what is being used that is successful. The folks at Total Boat might have a suggestion. What I use out here in salt water all year might not be the best for you local waters.

It sounds like you have a good plan.

 

[dlochner]

So after I get all rust off, apply a quick barrier coat (Total protect) right away, then fairing (Total fair) to fill/smooth things out, then more (3...4..?) coats of barrier paint (Total Protect) ...then what? Should finalize the keel with some sort of final paint?

Yes, use an antifouling paint that is suitable for freshwater. Check with other boaters in the area for the type of paint that works in your area.

One more step in the keel repair, bring the keel to bright metal and then coat with TotalBoat Rust Primer Metal Treatment. As soon as you remove any rust, it will start rusting again. The Rust Primer stops the rust and forms a paintable surface. It's quick and easy to apply. Let it dry over night and you start apply the barrier coat.

It is absolutely important that you read and follow the directions for the epoxy paint, especially with the ratio of hardener and paint and the induction time. If you don't follow those directions the paint will not cure and you will have a mess to clean up. It is easier to read and print the directions online than to read the fine print on the can. If you alternate primer colors, one coat gray, followed by white, followed by gray, you will be able to see any wear in the paint as the colors will change.

 

[Carl Wonderful]

I got all the supplies coming tomorrow and I feel pretty confident now thanks to all your guys'z help. One last thing....

Since I am only repairing about 20% of the keel (the rusted parts)...How do I transition into the old paint/epoxy/(or whatever it is...I have no way of finding out what was used on the keel, the previous owner passed 2020)

Do I just try to lightly sand into a couple inches of the OLD parts of the keel and sort of feather all the edges of all my repair coats of (total protect, total fair...and the top coat)..?

Also I have nobody to ask about a top coat. Can someone recommend a good topcoat for me for my keel by any chance?

 

[dlochner]

Do I just try to lightly sand into a couple inches of the OLD parts of the keel and sort of feather all the edges of all my repair coats of (total protect, total fair...and the top coat)..?

Yes.

Also I have nobody to ask about a top coat. Can someone recommend a good topcoat for me for my keel by any chance?

There are a couple of sailing clubs on Lake Arthur and a large marina. When spring comes, go walk the docks and ask boat owners what they use. If there are boats in being stored in the marinas, go look at their bottoms. Being new to sailing, joining a sailing club can be a good experience, especially if you can catch a ride on other people's boats. There is lots to learn and club members are usually helpful to new sailors.

Freshwater bottom growth is dependent on the amount of nutrients in the water and the water temperature. Cold water lakes with few nutrients have very little growth, warm water lakes with a lot of nutrients have a lot of growth.

Reach out to one of the sailing clubs on the Lake.

 

[Project_Mayhem]

I'd use bottom paint, assuming the other layers of paint will act as a barrier between the two. Bottom paint typically contains copper and you don't want dissimilar metals touching one another. The reason I suggest bottom paint is in case you decide to get a slip or a mooring. You already know that it's a paint to remove the keel and I assume you don't want to do it in the future. I'd look into non-ablative bottom paint so it lasts longer

 

[Carl Wonderful]

The more I research the more I feel like I'm missing some steps.... Mainly in cleaning and preparation.

I got all the rust off of the keel and its shiny metal (iron) now...

1. Do I need to be using some thing like Totalboat Dewaxer & surface prep? If so when do I use this?

2. Do I also need to being acetone into the party at any point...or is the Dewaxer & Surface Prep serve th esame purpose and maybe even better than Acetone?

3. And lastly when do I need to be sanding between what coats?

 

[Davidasailor26]

The more I research the more I feel like I'm missing some steps.... Mainly in cleaning and preparation.

I got all the rust off of the keel and its shiny metal (iron) now...

1. Do I need to be using some thing like Totalboat Dewaxer & surface prep? If so when do I use this?

2. Do I also need to being acetone into the party at any point...or is the Dewaxer & Surface Prep serve th esame purpose and maybe even better than Acetone?

3. And lastly when do I need to be sanding between what coats?

You should use the dewaxer or acetone to make sure the surface is clean of any oils or dust just before applying the first coat of epoxy. Don’t touch the surface with bare hands after that or the oils from your skin could affect adhesion. Generally once I start the acetone step I put on nitrile gloves and don’t take them off until Im done epoxying. Uncured epoxy can also cause skin irritation and allergic reactions over time with increased exposure so I try to make sure my skin doesn’t get a chance to touch it. The TotalBoat product is probably a little bit better since it’s purpose built for this type of job. Personally I’ve just used acetone.

Barrier coat generally doesn’t need sanding between coats. Fairing compound and other epoxy like you’ll be using for the tabbing fix generally does. Check the instructions in the product data sheets for whether you’d need to sand the barrier coat before putting fairing compound over it.

The other thing to be aware of with epoxy is that it can form an amine blush as it cures. Barrier coats generally don’t but this is another thing to watch for on the tabbing project. It’s good to rinse the surface with warm water and a scuff pad to make sure any blush is cleaned off. Do this before sanding, otherwise the sanding could just grind the blush in.

 

[dlochner]

The more I research the more I feel like I'm missing some steps.... Mainly in cleaning and preparation.

I got all the rust off of the keel and its shiny metal (iron) now...

1. Do I need to be using some thing like Totalboat Dewaxer & surface prep? If so when do I use this?

2. Do I also need to being acetone into the party at any point...or is the Dewaxer & Surface Prep serve th esame purpose and maybe even better than Acetone?

3. And lastly when do I need to be sanding between what coats?

At this point the most important step is getting the rust treatment on, either the TotalBoat product or Ospho usually available at a hardware store. The rust has already started on the bright shiny metal.

The Dewaxer is better than Acetone for prep work because it contains several different solvents which remove a variety of waxes and greases. Although acetone will usually work pretty well if that is all you have. Use it after the rust treatment and just before painting, won't need a lot of solvent, but you will need a lot of paper towels. Wet the towel, wipe once and toss. Don't smear it around that will spread the contaminants.

Read the directions for the paint for sanding advice. Unless you are in a heated space, you won't be able to paint until the temperature back up in the 50s. The important temperature reading is not the air, it is temperature of the surface being painted that is critical. And be sure to read the instructions for the 2 part paint. Download them from Totalboat if you can't read the tiny print on the can.