Got excited and just started fabrication! I will sand them down later. G10 is really tough stuff. I love it!
Seacock Quality... Replace?—Currently on the hard.
- Thread starter testingthewaters91
- Start date
Some time ago I was researching using Groco adaptor plates & G10 backers on my boat. (The adaptor plates have the same foot print as the seacocks.). Some members suggested either tapping threads into the G10 or embedding nuts into the bottom surface of the G10 & screwing the adaptor plates or seacock down into the G10 plate to avoid having the threaded studs ( and nuts) protrude from the top of the plate. If the seacock or adaptor plates would ever have to be replaced, it would be very difficult or impossible to remove without cutting off the base of the seacock. The protruding studs would prevent rotation of the seacock to enable it to be disengaged from the thru hull fitting that is threaded into the seacock or adaptor plate.
I'll take your word for using oak. However, every time I walk through the Port Townsend boatyard, I'm reminded that wood is not a zero maintenance material with practically infinite life. It is less expensive and much easier to work than glass, most certainly. And it is true that G10 eats blades and laughs about it.
Since I didn't want to through-bolt the backing plates, I followed @Maine Sail 's lead and tapped threaded silicon bronze studs into them. G10 was the best option for this method. This was one project I never wanted to do again, so I made sure of it as best I could.
I'm not sure what you guys are talking about, tapping threads or whatever... The bolts already go on nice and tight, and I just recessed where the bolt is so it's flush with the hull. But here is what my vacuum plates are looking like now!
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What we are talking about is provisions for removing the seacock in the future if the need arises. With the seacock thru bolted thru the backing plate, as shown, how would you remove the seacock? I am assuming that your backing plate will be epoxied or adhered (4200/5200) to the inside of the hull. If the head on the bolts is between the hull & backing plate, you can hopefully remove the attaching nuts, but the studs will still protrude thru the seacock base, making it impossible the break the seacock loose from the thru hull fitting & backing plate. @mermike tapped threads into the G10 backing plate and screwed studs into the plate, that has nuts tightened onto the studs. If he has to remove the seacock, he can remove the nuts and then unscrew the stud from the G10 plate, allowing for means of removing the seacock.
Wow. This is hard work. Just now realizing how overbuilt these Cherubini Hunters really are!
Expanded the head intake and engine intake to 1 inch using a hole saw and ordered the Groco Seacocks for them.
Expanded the head intake and engine intake to 1 inch using a hole saw and ordered the Groco Seacocks for them.
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Spent today grinding and glassing up a couple of old through-hulls. The hull’s about 1/2" thick fiberglass, so I made a 7-inch bevel—roughly 14:1 ratio—to get a nice taper and give the new layup room to breathe.
I used West System epoxy with 17oz biaxial fiberglass cloth. Ended up doing about 12 layers total: started small, built up to bigger ones, then finished with a few wide ones over the whole thing. Also added a few smaller pieces at the end to fair it out flat.
There’s a slight cavity in the hull near the keel area—it’s been like that since well before I was born and hasn’t caused issues, so I left it for now. Took photos, though, so I can fill it later if I ever need to.
It got tricky wrestling those wet, heavy layers overhead—especially the big ones—but working the edges down with a roller helped a lot. Once the edges are fully set, the glass really locks in well.
I’m super happy with how it turned out. The cured glass is rock solid, and honestly, it might be stronger than the original layup.
I used West System epoxy with 17oz biaxial fiberglass cloth. Ended up doing about 12 layers total: started small, built up to bigger ones, then finished with a few wide ones over the whole thing. Also added a few smaller pieces at the end to fair it out flat.
There’s a slight cavity in the hull near the keel area—it’s been like that since well before I was born and hasn’t caused issues, so I left it for now. Took photos, though, so I can fill it later if I ever need to.
It got tricky wrestling those wet, heavy layers overhead—especially the big ones—but working the edges down with a roller helped a lot. Once the edges are fully set, the glass really locks in well.
I’m super happy with how it turned out. The cured glass is rock solid, and honestly, it might be stronger than the original layup.
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jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 23,276
Thank you! I'm glad to hear it. Will sand it and fair it today.
Still thinking about this post. I wonder why there is no mushroom flange on the supper and engine exhausts. Why did they glass them in a bit above the static water line? Would I just take an angle grinder to that little cone of fiberglass to get rid of it and drop in a groco thru hull?
What brand of boat and year is yours?
