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  • A
    1975 o'day 22
    will be changing to led lights both mast and cabin along with nav lights. adding solar, adding bbq, rebedding all deck hardware and below water...
  • Monsterfish
    Looking forward to V-berth.
    Wow.....dream home!
  • D
    MacGregor 26s
    Das sind Teakleisten, die aufgeklebt, dann mit Schwarzer Masse ausgegossen und geschliffen wurden. Sieht immer noch aus wie neu.....
  • P
    Marilee-Interior.jpg
    This interior is gorgeous! What type of boat is this in?
  • JohnScott
    DSCN8846
    CHILD LABOR

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Rudder sketch (10)

Rudder sketch (10)

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DSC00981 This is what my board looks like. The board was easier to paint for the first time after I removed it. The pivot pin was still in good workable condition so I reused it.

DSC00981 This is what my board looks like. The board was easier to paint for the first time after I removed it. The pivot pin was still in good workable condition so I reused it.

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DSC00571 The O'Day 25 Chain Plates are also backed with red oak behind this bulkhead, which is bolted to the settees. Some of my standing rigging is oversized.

DSC00571 The O'Day 25 Chain Plates are also backed with red oak behind this bulkhead, which is bolted to the settees. Some of my standing rigging is oversized.

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DSC00982 This is all that holds that centerboard in place. You have the fiber pin in which the board pivots on, the two Fiberglas wedges shown below the pin, and the two stainless steel plates that bolt to the bottom of the keel on each side of the keel slot under each wedge. Four 1/4" Phillips head bolts hold the plates to the bottom of the keel. Also there are two S.S. wood screws that go through each of these plates and into the bottom of each wedge. It is important to remember that each of these wedges were adhered to the grooves in the keel slot with an adhesive caulking. This is what really holds that centerboard in place. Make no mistakes. If you neglect to use a good adhesive such as 3-M 4000 or 3-M 4200 to adhere these wedges you'll lose the wedges. You could lose the wood screws with no adverse effects to the board or wedges, but you need to have the wedges adhered to the grooves.

DSC00982 This is all that holds that centerboard in place. You have the fiber pin in which the board pivots on, the two Fiberglas wedges shown below the pin, and the two stainless steel plates that bolt to the bottom of the keel on each side of the keel slot under each wedge. Four 1/4" Phillips head bolts hold the plates to the bottom of the keel. Also there are two S.S. wood screws that go through each of these plates and into the bottom of each wedge. It is important to remember that each of these wedges were adhered to the grooves in the keel slot with an adhesive caulking. This is what really holds that centerboard in place. Make no mistakes. If you neglect to use a good adhesive such as 3-M 4000 or 3-M 4200 to adhere these wedges you'll lose the wedges. You could lose the wood screws with no adverse effects to the board or wedges, but you need to have the wedges adhered to the grooves.

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DSC00404It was back in Septober or Octember of 2005 that I decided to bottom paint my boat. I hated to do it but it became a pain pulling it out of the water and cleaning marine growth. While I was at it I needed to paint the inside of the keel slot along with the centerboard. To do this the right way I decided to pull the centerboard out and check the pivot pin while I was at it.

DSC00404It was back in Septober or Octember of 2005 that I decided to bottom paint my boat. I hated to do it but it became a pain pulling it out of the water and cleaning marine growth. While I was at it I needed to paint the inside of the keel slot along with the centerboard. To do this the right way I decided to pull the centerboard out and check the pivot pin while I was at it.

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DSC00607 My rudder blade was built by Rudy and it is solid. I use an O'Day 25 tiller with pendant line controls for the blade hold down, and a hold up feature that I devised. I lowered the pintles on the rudder head to make room for this wide tiller, and it was worth it.

DSC00607 My rudder blade was built by Rudy and it is solid. I use an O'Day 25 tiller with pendant line controls for the blade hold down, and a hold up feature that I devised. I lowered the pintles on the rudder head to make room for this wide tiller, and it was worth it.

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DSC01014 This is what the forward edge of the bottom of my keel looks like. You can see where the plates fit on each side of the keel slot and also the rabbet grooves where the wedges fit in place. I think it's the best centerboard set up that was ever out on the market. Removing the bolts to the plates was a problem. I had two that were stubborn and it took hours to finally remove them. I used an impact driver which was very tiresome after a while because you need to bang the tool while laying on your back. It would be nice if I could tip the boat upside down and bang down on the tool but I honestly believe that a cordless electric drill/driver like a Makita with an adjustable clutch for the Phillips bit in the chuck would work a whole lot easier and better. Less tiresome too. I was told by Rudy Nickerson of D&R Marine http://www.drmarine.com/ that there are two bronze plates embedded into the lead on each side of this keel slot for the bolts to thread into. This is always good to know just in case you break a bolt and need to drill and re-tap the hole for threads.

DSC01014 This is what the forward edge of the bottom of my keel looks like. You can see where the plates fit on each side of the keel slot and also the rabbet grooves where the wedges fit in place. I think it's the best centerboard set up that was ever out on the market. Removing the bolts to the plates was a problem. I had two that were stubborn and it took hours to finally remove them. I used an impact driver which was very tiresome after a while because you need to bang the tool while laying on your back. It would be nice if I could tip the boat upside down and bang down on the tool but I honestly believe that a cordless electric drill/driver like a Makita with an adjustable clutch for the Phillips bit in the chuck would work a whole lot easier and better. Less tiresome too. I was told by Rudy Nickerson of D&R Marine http://www.drmarine.com/ that there are two bronze plates embedded into the lead on each side of this keel slot for the bolts to thread into. This is always good to know just in case you break a bolt and need to drill and re-tap the hole for threads.

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DSC00767 In this pic we have the #10 stand copper duplex charging system wire that goes to the term block in the hatch, plus the autopilot receptical. The 8" Beckson Deck Plate makes it easy to get at the wire, gudgeons, and the self-bailing hoses. No more crawling into that hatch!

DSC00767 In this pic we have the #10 stand copper duplex charging system wire that goes to the term block in the hatch, plus the autopilot receptical. The 8" Beckson Deck Plate makes it easy to get at the wire, gudgeons, and the self-bailing hoses. No more crawling into that hatch!

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DSC01015 Here's a closer shot of the grooves. OK, so now we were able to remove the plates. The next thing we need to do is remove the wedges without damaging them too much. I took a torch and heated the blade of one of my fish fillet knives and stuck it into the caulking behind the wedge in order to free it. I also did the same with a putty knife blade. What the heck. Luthiers have been using heat to remove guitar necks for hundreds of years, why not use it here? If you screw up the wedge, just clean it up and reconstruct it with West System filler and Epoxy. That's what I wound up doing. Once the wedges are removed the pin won't slide down until you get the grooves cleaned of all the caulking which bring up an important step that your ought to do in preparation for removing the board. You need to Mickey Mouse some way of letting that board down easy so it won't drop down on your head. I took a couple of long lines and went over the top of the cabin with them and tied a Bowline at one end of each line and ran the other end under the keel and through the bowlines with a round turn and two half hitches. I was able to access the line while lay under the keel. I also took a short piece of strapping and cut a V notch on one end and used it to help support the board from the ground. The centerboard isn't that heavy, but you need to be able to control it once you get it free. When you're ready, just loosen the lines and let the board slide down horizontally with the pin sliding down through the grooves. I cleaned the inside of the keel slot and later bottom painted it. I left the groove unpainted for the caulking to adhere to the back of the wedges. Later on after I installed the board and hardware back on, I painted over the wedges.

DSC01015 Here's a closer shot of the grooves. OK, so now we were able to remove the plates. The next thing we need to do is remove the wedges without damaging them too much. I took a torch and heated the blade of one of my fish fillet knives and stuck it into the caulking behind the wedge in order to free it. I also did the same with a putty knife blade. What the heck. Luthiers have been using heat to remove guitar necks for hundreds of years, why not use it here? If you screw up the wedge, just clean it up and reconstruct it with West System filler and Epoxy. That's what I wound up doing. Once the wedges are removed the pin won't slide down until you get the grooves cleaned of all the caulking which bring up an important step that your ought to do in preparation for removing the board. You need to Mickey Mouse some way of letting that board down easy so it won't drop down on your head. I took a couple of long lines and went over the top of the cabin with them and tied a Bowline at one end of each line and ran the other end under the keel and through the bowlines with a round turn and two half hitches. I was able to access the line while lay under the keel. I also took a short piece of strapping and cut a V notch on one end and used it to help support the board from the ground. The centerboard isn't that heavy, but you need to be able to control it once you get it free. When you're ready, just loosen the lines and let the board slide down horizontally with the pin sliding down through the grooves. I cleaned the inside of the keel slot and later bottom painted it. I left the groove unpainted for the caulking to adhere to the back of the wedges. Later on after I installed the board and hardware back on, I painted over the wedges.

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DSC00766 This is a pic of the rope hanging board that I built. I also installed an electric term block just to the right of this board on the bulkhead, for my outboard motor charging system to my house battery. You can't see it in this picture. I cover it with a small piece of a PC mouse pad to prevent fireworks. I don't want anyone to come in contact with it and get electroculated.

DSC00766 This is a pic of the rope hanging board that I built. I also installed an electric term block just to the right of this board on the bulkhead, for my outboard motor charging system to my house battery. You can't see it in this picture. I cover it with a small piece of a PC mouse pad to prevent fireworks. I don't want anyone to come in contact with it and get electroculated.

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DSC01012 My O'Day 222 has a small pocket way up inside the keel slot with a sheave U bolt assembly attached to it. They probably inserted the assembly with a long tool at the factory. The U bolt has a strap welded to it and resembles a bow eye for the winch hook. The O'Day 26 has a similar set up.

DSC01012 My O'Day 222 has a small pocket way up inside the keel slot with a sheave U bolt assembly attached to it. They probably inserted the assembly with a long tool at the factory. The U bolt has a strap welded to it and resembles a bow eye for the winch hook. The O'Day 26 has a similar set up.

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DSC00788 I constructed these spreader boots out of leather and sewed them on. I may retire them and buy some made of rubber next year.

DSC00788 I constructed these spreader boots out of leather and sewed them on. I may retire them and buy some made of rubber next year.

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DSC01474 This is the pendant line pipe that come from the cockpit companionway step. This pipe is L shaped to provide enough space for a cooler to fit in this area of my cabin. The shape of the pipe is probably the reason for the pendant line sheave. That corrugated plastic hose is the outlet for my manual bilge pump which I've never had to use thank God. It goes to a thru hull fitting out my stern and between the rungs of my swim ladder. There's a detachable handle that is used to operate the pump from inside the cockpit.

DSC01474 This is the pendant line pipe that come from the cockpit companionway step. This pipe is L shaped to provide enough space for a cooler to fit in this area of my cabin. The shape of the pipe is probably the reason for the pendant line sheave. That corrugated plastic hose is the outlet for my manual bilge pump which I've never had to use thank God. It goes to a thru hull fitting out my stern and between the rungs of my swim ladder. There's a detachable handle that is used to operate the pump from inside the cockpit.

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DSC01475 This pic shows the pipe heading toward the hump which is really the outer side of the pocket in the keel slot. You can also see the bilge pump inlet hose next to the pipe. I have two boards that enclose the pipe and inlet hose and this area is where I place a 50 qt cooler. Also, you can see the mount for my companionway step. I had made this step detachable to make it easer to get my cooler behind it. This was probably one of my most successful mods ever. A real work saver there never was until I came up with this brain child.

DSC01475 This pic shows the pipe heading toward the hump which is really the outer side of the pocket in the keel slot. You can also see the bilge pump inlet hose next to the pipe. I have two boards that enclose the pipe and inlet hose and this area is where I place a 50 qt cooler. Also, you can see the mount for my companionway step. I had made this step detachable to make it easer to get my cooler behind it. This was probably one of my most successful mods ever. A real work saver there never was until I came up with this brain child.

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DSC00730 Detachable companionway step makes it easy to get the 50 quart cooler in and out.

DSC00730 Detachable companionway step makes it easy to get the 50 quart cooler in and out.

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DSC01476 The pendant line pipe goes directly to the that hump with a short piece of rubber hose in between the pipe and hump flange. I'm wearing my slippers in this shot.

DSC01476 The pendant line pipe goes directly to the that hump with a short piece of rubber hose in between the pipe and hump flange. I'm wearing my slippers in this shot.

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scan0002 To raise a mast on this boat from over the stern, I needed to build a mast crutch and attach it to my stern rail. Fortunately my O'Day 222 came with a full stern rail which made it easy to attach a crutch to it. I built the crutch out of some short 2x4s and some plywood. It was adjustable in that it could be lowered to hold the mast in place while the boat was being trailered. I have another album on mast crutches on this site, so I won't elaborate any further on this except to say that this piece of equipment is very essential in mast raising. The main advantages of raising a mast from the stern are as follows: The mast can sit in the crutches,( I have one on my bow pulpit also) with the track pointing down with all the stays connected, save the forestay which can be bungeed to the mast along with the topping lift. No dirt ever gets in the mast track and the mast is always ready to go up as soon as you can untie it and roll it aft so you can pin the tabernacle. It helps if you have installed a roller in the rear mast crutch. I used to set the crutch to within arms reach and pin it into position. The only other aid that is needed is a single sheave block which can be attached to the aft hole in the bow stem chainplate. A 60'x 3/8" three strand nylon line is roved through the block and attached to the Jib shackle. I spliced an eye to the end of the 3/8" nylon line for this purpose. The Jib halyard is run up the top of the mast and cleated at the bottom. The line will allow you to hold the mast in position after you get it all the way up. All you need to do is take the line around the mast above the goose neck fitting so it doesn't slide down, and pull the slack out of it and tie it to one of your bow cleats. This frees you up to remove the bungee holding the forestay and walk to the bow and attach it to the forward hole in the bow stem plate. This picture was taken at a local ramp on a lake just down the road from where I live. In closing I want to say that if you have an O'Day 22 or a 222 without a roller furler, this type of mast raising is the way to go but of course you could always build a Gin Pole and use it to raise your mast by either a small boat winch mounted on the pole or you could attach your boom vang to your bow stem plate and pull the mast up that way as I do. Note* If you plan on using your boom vang to pull your mast up on this boat or and O'Day 22, you'll need to replace the line with a long braid line of approximately 55' to be able to attain the reach in the blocks when the mast is laying horizontal and ready to go up. I've found this to be the fastest and easiest way to raise a mast and it can be done in about 20 minutes.

scan0002 To raise a mast on this boat from over the stern, I needed to build a mast crutch and attach it to my stern rail. Fortunately my O'Day 222 came with a full stern rail which made it easy to attach a crutch to it. I built the crutch out of some short 2x4s and some plywood. It was adjustable in that it could be lowered to hold the mast in place while the boat was being trailered. I have another album on mast crutches on this site, so I won't elaborate any further on this except to say that this piece of equipment is very essential in mast raising. The main advantages of raising a mast from the stern are as follows: The mast can sit in the crutches,( I have one on my bow pulpit also) with the track pointing down with all the stays connected, save the forestay which can be bungeed to the mast along with the topping lift. No dirt ever gets in the mast track and the mast is always ready to go up as soon as you can untie it and roll it aft so you can pin the tabernacle. It helps if you have installed a roller in the rear mast crutch. I used to set the crutch to within arms reach and pin it into position. The only other aid that is needed is a single sheave block which can be attached to the aft hole in the bow stem chainplate. A 60'x 3/8" three strand nylon line is roved through the block and attached to the Jib shackle. I spliced an eye to the end of the 3/8" nylon line for this purpose. The Jib halyard is run up the top of the mast and cleated at the bottom. The line will allow you to hold the mast in position after you get it all the way up. All you need to do is take the line around the mast above the goose neck fitting so it doesn't slide down, and pull the slack out of it and tie it to one of your bow cleats. This frees you up to remove the bungee holding the forestay and walk to the bow and attach it to the forward hole in the bow stem plate. This picture was taken at a local ramp on a lake just down the road from where I live. In closing I want to say that if you have an O'Day 22 or a 222 without a roller furler, this type of mast raising is the way to go but of course you could always build a Gin Pole and use it to raise your mast by either a small boat winch mounted on the pole or you could attach your boom vang to your bow stem plate and pull the mast up that way as I do. Note* If you plan on using your boom vang to pull your mast up on this boat or and O'Day 22, you'll need to replace the line with a long braid line of approximately 55' to be able to attain the reach in the blocks when the mast is laying horizontal and ready to go up. I've found this to be the fastest and easiest way to raise a mast and it can be done in about 20 minutes.

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DSC00731 This mod is my treasured brain-child. What a bear it was trying to get my old 48 quart cooler behind this step having to move settee cushions to slide it in back and into that area. Now, I merely remove the step, and place the 50 quart cooler over the two step supports.

DSC00731 This mod is my treasured brain-child. What a bear it was trying to get my old 48 quart cooler behind this step having to move settee cushions to slide it in back and into that area. Now, I merely remove the step, and place the 50 quart cooler over the two step supports.

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DSC01477 As I mentioned previously, this hump is really the outer side of that small single sheave pocket way up in the keel slot. In the pic you can see the small S.S. back up plate with the two nuts that hold the U bolt assembly.

DSC01477 As I mentioned previously, this hump is really the outer side of that small single sheave pocket way up in the keel slot. In the pic you can see the small S.S. back up plate with the two nuts that hold the U bolt assembly.

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scan The two most important things to remember when raising or lowering a mast on land or on the water is: 1. The wind direction. The wind needs to be coming directly from the stern. A wind from abeam will blow the mast over the side. 2. The boat and/or the trailer needs to be level. If the boat is leaning to one side, the mast is also going to lean to that side as soon as you raise it and it will inevitably go right over the side breaking the tabernacle in the process. You need to remember that the stays will not prevent the mast from going over the side until the mast is all the way up. The stays will then get tight and provide the stability needed. This picture was taken at the Mattapoisett Ma. Boat ramp back in the 1990s. My wife Dolores was sitting in our Delta 88 Olds reading a magazine. I spend a lot of time out on the water and tan up real quick. I very seldom get sunburned.

scan The two most important things to remember when raising or lowering a mast on land or on the water is: 1. The wind direction. The wind needs to be coming directly from the stern. A wind from abeam will blow the mast over the side. 2. The boat and/or the trailer needs to be level. If the boat is leaning to one side, the mast is also going to lean to that side as soon as you raise it and it will inevitably go right over the side breaking the tabernacle in the process. You need to remember that the stays will not prevent the mast from going over the side until the mast is all the way up. The stays will then get tight and provide the stability needed. This picture was taken at the Mattapoisett Ma. Boat ramp back in the 1990s. My wife Dolores was sitting in our Delta 88 Olds reading a magazine. I spend a lot of time out on the water and tan up real quick. I very seldom get sunburned.

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DSC00993 New stainless steel sink and stove compartment for the the galley, plus a new shelf over the sink. I have since re-stained all the cabin woodwork to a dark red Mahogany color since these pics were taken.

DSC00993 New stainless steel sink and stove compartment for the the galley, plus a new shelf over the sink. I have since re-stained all the cabin woodwork to a dark red Mahogany color since these pics were taken.

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DSC01478 This the sole plate cover in place.

DSC01478 This the sole plate cover in place.

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DSC00428 When I first saw this guy raise his mast with a CDI Roller Furler connected to it one day at the club, I was completely blow away! I've always wanted a good roller furler on my boat but there was no way that I could ever raise my mast with a furler connected to it the way I was doing it by hand. This guy was a new YC member back then and I was later to find out that he had more clever ideas and mods than anyone I've ever known. He used to categorize himself as a "tinkerer" and that he is to this very day. I'm forever picking his brains and I'm still learning from him.

DSC00428 When I first saw this guy raise his mast with a CDI Roller Furler connected to it one day at the club, I was completely blow away! I've always wanted a good roller furler on my boat but there was no way that I could ever raise my mast with a furler connected to it the way I was doing it by hand. This guy was a new YC member back then and I was later to find out that he had more clever ideas and mods than anyone I've ever known. He used to categorize himself as a "tinkerer" and that he is to this very day. I'm forever picking his brains and I'm still learning from him.

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DSC00758 New CDI FF-2 Roller Furler. I needed to raise the furler drum about 5" to make room for my anchor roller. So I added a tang to my bow stem plate. I use a press button fast pin for the fore stay connection to this tang. With a Johnson Handy-Lock on my backstay, and the fast pin on my forestay, mast raising/lowering with a roller furler doesn't get any faster than that.

DSC00758 New CDI FF-2 Roller Furler. I needed to raise the furler drum about 5" to make room for my anchor roller. So I added a tang to my bow stem plate. I use a press button fast pin for the fore stay connection to this tang. With a Johnson Handy-Lock on my backstay, and the fast pin on my forestay, mast raising/lowering with a roller furler doesn't get any faster than that.

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