What you use is not as important as how, but in finishing it helps. Wet sand beginning with 600 grit, in a CIRCULAR motion (hard for a woodworker to accept) with light body massage type pressure. spray your sandpaper to clean it every 15 seconds / or often with a good spray bottle in your non-sanding hand. Work up to 1500, then begin to buff, again lite massage type pressure. slow speeds.

What you use is not as important as how, but in finishing it helps. Wet sand beginning with 600 grit, in a CIRCULAR motion (hard for a woodworker to accept) with light body massage type pressure. spray your sandpaper to clean it every 15 seconds / or often with a good spray bottle in your non-sanding hand. Work up to 1500, then begin to buff, again lite massage type pressure. slow speeds.

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After much experimentation with products and techniques, these are the final products used to finish. My Girl was moderately oxidized, meaning no shiney spots at all, but not as bad a a piece of chalk. To get a reflection, you MUST USE WET SANDPAPER. Trust me on this, you cannot get a gloss by just buffing, even buffing several times over and over again.

After much experimentation with products and techniques, these are the final products used to finish. My Girl was moderately oxidized, meaning no shiney spots at all, but not as bad a a piece of chalk. To get a reflection, you MUST USE WET SANDPAPER. Trust me on this, you cannot get a gloss by just buffing, even buffing several times over and over again.

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A good case for finishing your teak. It is just too pretty this way as opposed to the "ignored gray" finish alot of people use. I used cetol "natural teak" as recommended by appleman.

A good case for finishing your teak. It is just too pretty this way as opposed to the "ignored gray" finish alot of people use. I used cetol "natural teak" as recommended by appleman.

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I fashioned the floorboards from cherry. I used a lighter stain on them and used cetol because it is not slippery as polyurethane. I initially put sand on it, but sanded it off as i didn't like it. it does not seem slippery.

I fashioned the floorboards from cherry. I used a lighter stain on them and used cetol because it is not slippery as polyurethane. I initially put sand on it, but sanded it off as i didn't like it. it does not seem slippery.

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refinished all teak, i used a cabbott "red mahogany" and cabbott polyurethane semigloss. I setteled on cabbott after trying a couple of other brands. I am glad i painted the bulkheads, they show off the teak.

refinished all teak, i used a cabbott "red mahogany" and cabbott polyurethane semigloss. I setteled on cabbott after trying a couple of other brands. I am glad i painted the bulkheads, they show off the teak.

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I painted the areas i repaired with interlux brightside. the "grand banks beige" matched the non skid closely. You can see that i raised the area at the chainplate slighly to keep water from puddling around the plate.

I painted the areas i repaired with interlux brightside. the "grand banks beige" matched the non skid closely. You can see that i raised the area at the chainplate slighly to keep water from puddling around the plate.

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I installed NewFoundMetals Trimatrix ports. The ports have a rubber gasket and do not need sealent. So far the only trouble i have had is getting the adjustment right on the latches. So far no leaks

I installed NewFoundMetals Trimatrix ports. The ports have a rubber gasket and do not need sealent. So far the only trouble i have had is getting the adjustment right on the latches. So far no leaks

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new forward hatch and trimatrix ports installed, also shows repaired area of mast and chainplates. Note that i elevated the areas of attachment to try to decrease tendency to leak. Paint matches ok. Maybe i should have tried to use gelcoat.

new forward hatch and trimatrix ports installed, also shows repaired area of mast and chainplates. Note that i elevated the areas of attachment to try to decrease tendency to leak. Paint matches ok. Maybe i should have tried to use gelcoat.

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Disaster! The epoxy bled through the paint on the bulkheads. The paint is so soft it can be scraped with fingernails. the yellow blush is "Amine blush". I should have cleaned the cured epoxly with a sponge and water before applying the pant. NOw I have to make and finish the bulkheads all over again......

Disaster! The epoxy bled through the paint on the bulkheads. The paint is so soft it can be scraped with fingernails. the yellow blush is "Amine blush". I should have cleaned the cured epoxly with a sponge and water before applying the pant. NOw I have to make and finish the bulkheads all over again......

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The area under the mast ready for final sanding and paint. I repaired the core using usual the usual technique for cored deck repair but added a small elevation where the mast plate attaches.

The area under the mast ready for final sanding and paint. I repaired the core using usual the usual technique for cored deck repair but added a small elevation where the mast plate attaches.

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preparing to remove the two speed winch, drum is removed. I will take this oportunity to service them.

preparing to remove the two speed winch, drum is removed. I will take this oportunity to service them.

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working on the pulpit area.

working on the pulpit area.

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I later decided to go with full sized bulkheads (so far) and this is when i sealed them with three coats of epoxy. Subseqently I painted them with off-white polyurethane.

I later decided to go with full sized bulkheads (so far) and this is when i sealed them with three coats of epoxy. Subseqently I painted them with off-white polyurethane.

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The most controversial move yet. i will enlarge the vbirth, eliminating the forward head, and sink, and shrink the bulkheads, but reinforce with larger compression post. (advised that this compromises integrety, i later went with the original floor plan. plus my wife didn't want to give up the private head!)

The most controversial move yet. i will enlarge the vbirth, eliminating the forward head, and sink, and shrink the bulkheads, but reinforce with larger compression post. (advised that this compromises integrety, i later went with the original floor plan. plus my wife didn't want to give up the private head!)

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the tabernacle area cut out

the tabernacle area cut out

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outer skin under tabernacle cut out showing the rot.

outer skin under tabernacle cut out showing the rot.

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The beginning of tearing out the inside. More pix are posted in threads such as "sea trek: trouble with tabernacles", "that sinking feelin'..trouble with compression post", and "cutta hole in my boat"

The beginning of tearing out the inside. More pix are posted in threads such as "sea trek: trouble with tabernacles", "that sinking feelin'..trouble with compression post", and "cutta hole in my boat"

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Digging around in my bulkheads, not a good sign!

Digging around in my bulkheads, not a good sign!

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Sunken mast.. the first clue i had of serious problems

Sunken mast.. the first clue i had of serious problems

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Boat in the back yard. This is the beginning, a moldy chalky diamond in the rough.

Boat in the back yard. This is the beginning, a moldy chalky diamond in the rough.

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emergpa1

The rebuild Oday 26

Pix posted as i go..hopefully with a finished product at the end someday !!!!!!DON'T FORGET TO LOOK AT PAGE TWO!!!!!!!!!!!
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