That's not entirely true. Backwinding the jib helps for a quick tack in many conditions, just a little backwind, not filling fully. Many people release too early and loose drive through the tack. Wait until about 1/3 of the sail is backed before releasing in light to moderate conditions. The helm must be in tune with this and not overturn.
Believe me, as a life-long multihull sailor I know ALL the tricks for getting stubborn boats through the eye. Backwinding is the worst of them. I have never found a boat that required backwinding (for more than a few seconds, as you mention), and I have sailed some real pigs. It is about understanding the things that move them through.
- Pull the traveler way above the centerline as the tack starts. Helps push the stern around and makes certain the main is not over trimmed for acceleration.
- Modulate the turn in rate so that the rudder does not stall. Steer through the turn. Each boat has a best rate for each condition.
- Sail full and by just before tacking, to insure best speed. Don't pinch.
- Prep the jib sheets for fast handling. You should be able to get the new working sheet in without grinding, even on fairly large boats, if the timing is sharp. The sheet should be in just as the wind hits it.
But more to the point, I have stretched leaches by backwinding in a breeze. It is embarrassing to admit and was caused by overrides (I had an alignment problem, soon fixed, but the damage was done). It will happen if you lay a 130% genoa on the spreaders often enough in enough wind. In light wind all you will do is tack slow and wear the stitching.
As for the Hobie, try the above, and then try roll tacking (get the weight way back, to get the bows out of the water, and heel to windward--there is less boat in the water this way). If you need to back the jib, something is wrong. I've sailed Hobies lots and you won't see a racer backwind the jib for more than an 1-2 seconds--it's slow.