No Hot Water
- Thread starter jviss
- Start date
Maybe... But real old school. You might want to change it out.
your water heater brand may have a specific design. The one in this image is for a Torrid Marine. The white protrusion is an anode.
http://stevedmarineconsulting.com/water-heater-primer/
gives a detailed primer for water heaters.
your water heater brand may have a specific design. The one in this image is for a Torrid Marine. The white protrusion is an anode. http://stevedmarineconsulting.com/water-heater-primer/
gives a detailed primer for water heaters.
I would suspect air in your coolant hose. You need to bleed it (probably). If your WH is high above the engine, you may need much higher revs than the 1500 rpm that you used.
On a different boat (Catalina C270 and Perkins M20), even at 2000 rpm it was not working properly. I think that the owner had to run it at 2500 rpm to bleed the coolant hoses properly.
Btw. you should be able to check it reasonably easily - the output hose from the WH should be hot (almost as hot as the input hose) - around 90 C (180 F?).
On a different boat (Catalina C270 and Perkins M20), even at 2000 rpm it was not working properly. I think that the owner had to run it at 2500 rpm to bleed the coolant hoses properly.
Btw. you should be able to check it reasonably easily - the output hose from the WH should be hot (almost as hot as the input hose) - around 90 C (180 F?).
I get that, but I'm pretty sure it's a pressure relief. I unscrewed the top and inside is a ball poppet and spring. The nipple on top is presumably to attach a hose to direct overflow.
It worked in the Fall...then you winterized the engine and all systems ! Many people do that by disconnecting the cold water inlet and connecting it to the hot water outlet so they can run antifreeze in the lines but not in the tank. Turning the hot water tap on would only yield cold water if the lines are not reconnected properly. But you would feel heat on the tank itself as it would be heated up by either engine exchanger or 110 AC.
Interesting.. I'd be a little leery of that valve/fitting.. It doesn't look right.. Usually the T&P is in a dedicated nipple.. I think the mfg standards require that it be .. Not saying ya need to be worried that it doesn't meet code, saying that ya might want to figure out what P.O. was thinking when he put that in there.. My T&P drools when it goes from hot to cold because of water expansion.. then it doesn't drool after it heats up.. He may have been directing the drool ..
Yes, Claude, that is so. I reworked a lot of the plumbing there, as it was very poorly designed and executed as I found it; and I think, not Tartan's work, but a previous owner. The water heater bypass broke, and I removed it. I had planned on replacing it but the new unit would not fit in the cramped space available. So, I simply have a cold line just past the accumulator feeding it, and the hot output feeding the hot distribution. Should be simple, no? Maybe I made a stupid mistake, but I don't think so. As I said, I've yet to have an opportunity to do an diagnosis.
Just for giggles, do you have a bypass of some sort on your water heater for winterizing? My new to me O’Day 322 has some extra valves and piping to easily allow bypassing the water heater when winterizing so I don’t have to put antifreeze in the WH. After the first winter, I recommissioned the boat and missed one of the 3 valves used to bypass the water heater. I did not have hot water, and assumed maybe the T-stat had gone bad (I was using electric element at the dock). Replaced the T-stat, and still no hot water. After some head scratching and digging around deep in the lazzerette, I found a 3rd valve. Turned it and viola, I had hot water. At least I have a spare T-stat should I need one.
Just a thought.
Greg
Just a thought.
Greg
Can you feel the coolant pipes near the water heater and net the engine to see if they are getting warm? Has you run the engine long enough (and hard enough)to get it up to temp and have the T-stat open? If the pipes are warm at the engine and cold at the water heater, I would suspect air in the coolant lines. Did you say you had to open the coolant system?
Not sure if the low level in the reservoir means you have low coolant level in the system.
Greg
Not sure if the low level in the reservoir means you have low coolant level in the system.
Greg
As I said, I've yet to have an opportunity to do an diagnosis.
The engine was run for at least an hour, maybe two. I haven't ever opened the cooling system.
Airbound is the first thing that comes to my mind, especially after sitting for a season. It is harder to hold vacuum without a leak compared to pressure. Air can leak in over time from the smallest seal failures.
Blockage is the second thing that comes to mind. Is it possible that you might have a thermostat somewhere that got stuck? Do you have zinc sticks inside the exchanger that should have been changed, but might not have been changed?
If you have an infrared thermometer, poking around with that to see what is hot & what is not, may be informative.
Blockage is the second thing that comes to mind. Is it possible that you might have a thermostat somewhere that got stuck? Do you have zinc sticks inside the exchanger that should have been changed, but might not have been changed?
If you have an infrared thermometer, poking around with that to see what is hot & what is not, may be informative.