Hunter holly and teak floor

Bill Roosa · Oct 14, 2017

Kinda depends on how "soft and fluffy" the interior of the floor boards is. I'd replace it but teak and holly is REAL EXPENSIVE. With that in mind I have found oak and aspen plywood can be found with a grain pattern that looks pretty close to teak. and unstained aspen looks like holly.
Some tips if you want to make your own. route out the 1/4 grooves for the holly before cutting the piece outline shape. You get no tear outs this way. Sand and stain the "teak" and then install the "holly" in the grooves. it will stick up so CAREFULY use a jack plane to remove the excess holly. this was much easier than I though it would be and leaves a very slight raised holly "bump" that aides in making the surface non slip.

geek_guy · Oct 14, 2017

I had similar issues. If the plywood has separated then it's likely trash. Mine was the same and besides the separation it had mold and yuck in between the plys. Don't think there is any way you could get glue between the plys.

However if you are cheap(like me) there another option that is easier than Bill's suggestion. I went to Home Depot and purchases sheets of their hard wood plywood. Then put masking tape down for the "Holly", and stained the remaining parts with Mohagany gel stain(the teak). Pulled up the tape and voila you have a very close simulation of teak and holly floor. Then I covered it with epoxy to seal and finished.

Rick D · Oct 14, 2017

I replaced several panels in mine. Suggest you get marine-grade ply. Then do as suggested or put a laminate down as I did about ten years ago: http://search.defender.com/?expression=flooring+laminate&x=0&y=0

markwbird · Oct 14, 2017

I've always liked Holly Hunter.

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finefurn · Oct 15, 2017

If the ply layers are delaminating the plywood floor is junk, salvageable only as fire kindling. As Rick D suggested, use 3/4 marine plywood. Any finish grade hardwood plywood such as sold at ANY of the big box stores is not made using a waterproof glue, regardless what the guy stocking the shelves tells you. It'll be prone to delaminating and warping. A teak veneer marine ply is available but $$$$$. Meranti is a good substitute. I would use Hard Maple as a substitute for the Holly. When I redid mine, I added a 1/4" x 1" strip on both the cross grain edges, this will greatly help to avoid edge splintering. Then cut a 1/2" round over profile on the underside of the new panel and finish the underside & edges with a penetrating epoxy. I finished the top side with a conversion varnish. Next trip up to the boat I'll take a detail pic if interested.

SailormanDan · Oct 15, 2017

@finefurn :
Yes, pictures would be nice. I'm looking at this project also, next spring or so.

CloudDiver · Oct 15, 2017

Any Pics? The great thing about wood is just about any repair can reasonably be done short of damage from burns, lol. If the top layer is genuine teak and holly, and it is still in good condition like you say, I think it can be saved... However comma... it takes some tools and woodworking skills. The easy part laminating the top layer back onto a new substrate of solid marine ply with epoxy. The hard part is getting that top layer off without damage and at a consistent thickness. A thickness planer is your friend here, the issue is most home shop thickness planers are between 12 and 14 inches wide, and I'm fairly certain your floor panels will be wider than that save a few small pieces and trim. If you know of a local wood-shop/cabinet maker I would inquire to see if they have a large thickness planer, wide enough to take your biggest floor panel through. If such a tool exists in your general area you could plane off the old ply underside until you end up with the last 1/4" (3/16" maybe?) of teak/holly top ply and epoxy that down onto fresh marine plywood sheets. I wouldn't even cut the plywood, I would arrange the teak/holly flooring on full sheets to maximize material, epoxy, lay over a plastic sheet, then lay a few heavy sheets of MDF on top for clamping force; rough cut the cured sheets with a jig saw then use a router with a trim bit to follow the original lines. Epoxy the back sides & edges. $200 to $300 in new marine ply and some epoxy is probably way less coin than new floors all together, Just my .02

HMT2 · Oct 15, 2017

I replaced the teak and holly sole on my '83 Hunter. I was able to buy a sheet of 3/4" teakand holly for about $175. I cut it and varnished it using this method.

Crazy Dave Condon · Oct 16, 2017

The floor pan of the H 260 is molded with a recess in it to accommodate the floor but under no circusmstances ever drill thru that or you will hit the top of the ballast tank lid underneath. The floor is first glued down with an adhesive and then the lip was sealed with the same material as used on the window. I think Dow 765 but may be wrong here but any good archeticual grade pure silicon will work. The key is to keep that seal completely in tact from water seeping underneath that floor.

Since we do not have a photo to show us the deterioration of that floor and or is warped will depend on what we see. If the floor is in still good condition and not warped, simply stand and walk over it pushing out the underlying water toweling the water up until no more comes out. A small shop vac with the inside liner removed helps too. Then let the floor dry for a week or two until the water is gone and dryed out. Then clean out that seal previously mentioned and place a new seal in. You can smooth it out with a finger wet with spit or alcohol but there are other ways as well.

Again, we would ask that you submit a photo or two to see what has happened to the floor.

finefurn · Oct 18, 2017

Got up to the boat today and started to put her to bed for the winter. I took some pics of the bilge covers that I redid. Mostly what I tried to show in these pics is the 1' x 1/4' strip that I inset along the ross grain edge of the covers. Also I inset a ring pull in each cover to aid in removing them. Previously the covers were screwed in place and had to be pried up, resulting in lots of chipped gel coat .
As you can see I haven't got a clue how to post pics, what am I doing wrong?

Kermit · Oct 18, 2017

finefurn said:
As you can see I haven't got a clue how to post pics, what am I doing wrong?View attachment 142013

Ummmm... Nothing? They all look fine to me.

SailormanDan · Oct 18, 2017

Thanks for posting the pictures, you did a nice job with the floor boards.
I have trouble posting photos also, as do other folks.

HMT2 · Oct 18, 2017

Ummm guess I could show my finished product.

Crazy Dave Condon · Oct 19, 2017

@BreakingWind
Could you be a little more specific where the water stood and came from so that problem can be eliminated. A little help here and I will try to advise.