Hunter (e)33 - Issues, Concerns and Solutions

[Hello Below]

That is comforting news that Greg Emerson has shown an interest in a pre-Marlow Hunter boat.

From the looks of your photos, the stress crack(??) could be: the iron keel itself, epoxy 5 coat barrier, gel coat or bottom paint. I am betting one of the middle 2 although it is unlikely that there is gel coat over the epoxy. Once the various layers come off during inspection the culprit will be known.

As far as the saildrive fairing boot goes, it just looks like it has come loose from the hull for some reason. I believe it is secured to the hull with adhesive. There are many posts on other boat forums indicating this is quite common. I think this is a quick fix where preparation is the key to allow the adhesive to adhere to both the hull and rubber boot. I would give it a good check to make sure it has not been damage or deformed while it has been flopping around.

As an aside, do you have any sort of anti-fouling on the saildrive leg? I understand that the dealer applied 2 coats of Interlux Tri-Lux II on mine. There is better out there but that is about all that is available in Canada.

 

[Serena1]

I don't believe it's the actual keel, but rather the location where the keel is attached to the hull. I hope to find out something from Greg.

When the yard hauled the boat last October, the service tech of True North made note of the loose boot. I believe they have it on their list of things to take care of in the spring before launch.

As for any anti fouling on the sail drive, there is none as you could see from the photo's. No one has mentioned anything to me about this. The anti-fouling was applied by the dealer. Does anyone else have any thoughts on this: "To anti-foul or not to anti-foul...that is the questions." (sailing region for us: Lake Ontario)

 

[Serena1]

Good News...my dealer came through. No major issue, just some surface cracks in the coating. Affected area will be serviced. Also all other issues will be taken care of over the next couple of weeks.

Oh, and the "anti-fouling" coating on the sail drive...as we are sailing in fresh water, coating the sail drive was not recommended.

 

[Hello Below]

This is great news, Serena1. My dealer borrowed my boat to show at the the Vancouver International Boat Show this past week. The bottom was painted, zincs changed out and hull detailed. It was transported to BC Place and was displayed "for viewing only". He also had a new e33, along with 4 others including a 40, in the water at Granville Island for those that wanted to come aboard. On Sunday I went over to Vancouver and had a good look at both my keel and fairing boot on the saildrive but did not see anything out of the ordinary.

A while back one of the other e33 owner had made mention, on this forum, of his engine and saildrive being out of alignment. So while my boat is at the dealers they will check this out also. The service manager did ensured me that checking the alignment was a PDI requirement but she suggested they recheck it prior to the expiration of the Hunter warranty – 1 year portion.

 

[Serena1]

She looks good.
Just curious, what do you have attached to the mast, an antenea?

Oh, I see you have a chart plotter...what do you have? Do you know what enclosure (navpod) was used to house the plotter?

By the way, do you know what happened with that misalignment issue?

 

[Hello Below]

What you see on the mast is a mount for the Raymarine radar scanner without the scanner. The dealer removed it for some reason for the boat show.

The chartplotter is a Raymarine C90W, now discontinued, but it did integrate seamlessly with the remainder of the ST60 instruments, so I am good with that. I have the ICOM 504, an ACR AIS Rx only and an X-5 Smart Pilot interfaced to the plotter through a multiplexer. I will be installing an NMEA WiFi so I can send all that info to an iPad and PC.

I think the pod is a Lewmar but I don't have the number. I hope to bring the boat back a week from today, if the weather cooperates, and will let you know. I see that NavPod makes one pre-cut for the Raymarine e7 (NavPod RP43). West Marine has it for under $300.

I have heard nothing more about the outcome of the engine/saildrive alignment issue. However, it got my attention as I was a little concerned that maybe this was a production issue so I contacted my service manager about it. She stated that the mechanics (Stem to Stern) perform alignment checks before and after all vessels go in the water, as it’s part of their PDI requirements. She did say she would have it rechecked just to be doubly sure while they had the boat this time.

 

[Serena1]

In a previous post, I mentioned that my fold down transom had a spongy feel when stepping on it. Before the our boat was launched again after a long winter, the transom was repaired. Hunter provided parts and new teak layer and our dealer, True North did the work. Our transom feels solid, the way it should be.

 

[Hello Below]

Glad to hear that the old Hunter guard and your dealer provided the support to correct your deficiency. Over the past almost 1 year, I have had excellent service from my dealer (Speciality Yacht Sales, Vancouver, BC), Hunter of old and new, Raymarine (CMC Electronics) and Doyle Ploch Sails Florida, Dometic Refrigeration, ICOM, . . . Holy smokes and who says a new boat requires no/less repairs?

 

[jbinbi]

question on battery useage. just got a 2012 e 33 used:

has 2 group 31 batteries.

What is best procedure to start engine, on both 1+2?

And then do most use 1 of the batteries as a house and the other dedicated to reserve for engine.

My last boat had a small group 27 exclusively for starting, and 8d for house, they were isolated from each other. This is different.

Want to be able to use electronics when i sail, but always be able to start the engine. thanks.

 

[Stu Jackson]

Combine these two into a larger house bank, and do what your old boat had: get a small third battery for a "reserve" backup. 1+2 to start is not necessary, 'cuz if one is bad, you're hurting the good one when combined.

It all depends on how it's wired:

Basic Battery Wiring Diagrams This is a very good basic primer for boat system wiring: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6604.0.html

This is another very good basic primer for boat system wiring: The 1-2-B Switch by Maine Sail (brings together a lot of what this subject is all about)
http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=137615

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5977.msg38552.html#msg38552

Good luck.

 

[Hello Below]

Our e33 came with 4 uninstalled screens for the portlights. I had no problem installing the 2 in the after cabin. They are easily installed from the outside. The one in the galley took some time but fits nicely. I was able to install the screen in the head but I am unable to dog the latches down once it is in place. The screen sits between the gasket and the outside frame but once in place I am unable to lock the latches. Or rather I am very reluctant to force the portlight to close so that I can lock it.

Has anyone else had this problem?

 

[Hello Below]

Although our Hunter e33 was to be delivered with 4 golf cart batteries for the house bank and a group 27 for the starter battery, it only came with 2 group 27 batteries, one each for house and starter. For almost 2 months we did our best to keep the load down but even then when at anchor we had to start the diesel to either move to charge or stay put and charge after only about 16 hours. When sailing on the single house battery, we had to start the diesel after about 5 hours. Since the 4 x US 2200 XC golf cart batteries were installed we are good for 3 days on the hook and we no longer have to worry when we are coastal cruising under sail.

 

[jbinbi]

problem with lifelines:

I am unable to have the snap shackle close with a click (the part of line by the cockpit for boarding) unless the whole lifeline is loose.

I have spent an hour playing with the turnbuckle at the bow and the only way I can get the snap shackle to to close well is to keep the whole line looser than I want.

Anyone else have this problem, and any solution to it?

 

[jbinbi]

Our e33 came with 4 uninstalled screens for the portlights. I had no problem installing the 2 in the after cabin. They are easily installed from the outside. The one in the galley took some time but fits nicely. I was able to install the screen in the head but I am unable to dog the latches down once it is in place. The screen sits between the gasket and the outside frame but once in place I am unable to lock the latches. Or rather I am very reluctant to force the portlight to close so that I can lock it.

Has anyone else had this problem?

Heck, I just learned how to get the screens in from your post. I was playing around and couldn't figure out how they would stay. Now that I know I will try to put them in a close them. I was trying to install them from the inside....

 

[Hello Below]

Indeed it is easier to install the 2 after cabin screens from the outside; however, the galley and head portlight screens must be installed from the inside. It would be much easier to install those screens with help. Even after installing the head screen, as per the instructions, I am unable to secure the latches. It seems that the little extra that the screen adds to the thickness, holds the latches out and without great force the latches will not lock in place. Let me know how you make out.

 

[jbinbi]

problem with lifelines:

I am unable to have the snap shackle close with a click (the part of line by the cockpit for boarding) unless the whole lifeline is loose.

I have spent an hour playing with the turnbuckle at the bow and the only way I can get the snap shackle to to close well is to keep the whole line looser than I want.

Anyone else have this problem, and any solution to it?

bump it up. anyone else seeing this...

 

[Hello Below]

Hmmm. Going to need more info for this one. Actually a picture would be great.

I'm thinking that you mean the pelican hooks, but I am not sure if you mean at the port or starboard gates or at the swim platform or somewhere else. I have not had any issues with issues and want to ensure I understand where you are having the problems before I make suggestions.

 

[jbinbi]

hello:, thanks. really appreciate your input! Yes, I do mean the pelican hooks for the lifelines for boarding.

Also, curious about the bilge. The last boat I had, a beneteau, always had a perfectly dry bilge. I mean, never a drop of water in 5 years.

With the hunter, the first thing is that the sink drains to a box in the middle bildge section, and not to a seacock thruhull?! So when box overfillsfills, it just overflows into the bilge. (if I don't turn on the sump pump for the head). And off course, it then goes into all the sections of the bilge thru the inter connection holes. Is this correct?

Another question is on the seat cushions in the cabin at the table. They overlap the hinged sections of top of the wood below them making it impossible to open a section for storage without taking off all the cushions. I am thinking about trimming the wood a bit so I can open these hatches more easily. Has anyone done that.

Finally, not sure if I can ask this question on this forum, but are there other hunter forums as well to post questions on. There is a phenomenal, and that may be an understatement, group for Beneteau owners on google groups. The amount of info, not just specific to the benetuea, but to all sailing on there is amazing!

 

[Serena1]

Hi Jibinbi,

My galley sink is connected directly to a seacock but the head sink and shower drain is connected the box you are referring to.

My cushions also over lap slightly making it difficult to open the storage without removing the cushions first.

 

[Serena1]

Hi H33 owners. I need some advice.

I had a Raymarine windvane installed before my mast was stepped this year. The cable is at the base of the mast going into a small junction box. An i60 was installed at the helm.

All I need to do is run the wire from the junction box to the i60 display.

Any suggestion how to run the cable? (preferably without having to remove the liners)