Compare the 35.5 to the 34

[John Nantz]

Jackstay

Jackstay- A stay that runs forward from the masthead over a jumper strut and back to the mast to stiffen the upper portion of a fractional-rigged mast. Besides helping to make the mast stiffer fore and aft, it would help the mast to take side loads too.Depending on how one uses the spinnaker the sideload could become significant. It all depends.

 

[Alan]

OK, John,

..maybe we are talking about the same thing and calling it by different names. Are the 'jumper stays' associated with the 'jumper strut' what you are calling the 'jackstay'? My understanding of a jackstay has been that it attaches to the forward part of the mast well below the forestay and attaches to the deck on centerline. I have had a jumper strut and its associated stays on my boat for years because that is one of only 2 ways to allow adjustment of headstay tension on a fractionally rigged boat. The other being running backstays.

 

[John Nantz]

..... Think You're Right...

.... sounds like we're talking about the same thing using different names. For the stay that "attaches to the forward part of the mast well below the forestay and attaches to the deck on centerline" I call an "innerstay" or inner stay or inner forestay. I have seen where some have called this stay a jackstay too. This may have something to do with the origins of the word.Then, of course, there is the jackline.Going back to a masthead spinnaker, if you're in an area where there is often light airs I think this idea would be excellent. The racing season here has some very light air days so for the Puget Sound I think it would be very useful. If your area is similar, unless you get hit with an unbelievable penalty, I think flying a masthead chute could be "penalty effective".

 

[Alan]

I agree, John

LI Sound is notorius for very lite air during mid-summer months. In those types of conditions, reaching off and building boat speed is the thing to do even with a symetrical kite. At that point the big akite has a distinct advantage. I first thought that a centerline sprit would be good, but after considering the great advantage to an articulating sprit I think it would be worth the extra effort of contruction considering the gain down wind.My concern with the added forward load at the masthead, which I think was your reason for bringing up the jumper strut, is offset by only flying the big masthead chute in lighter air and more down wind (165-120AWA). As the wind moves forward the side support of the jumper strut becomes more effective. My backstay wire was removed and replaced by a spectra line which is carried from a flicker at the masthead to hold it clear of the leech of the main. As the wind moves forward the backstay can be applied to help support the mast top.

 

[John Nantz]

What About a Double Backstay?

Looks like you have really have your boat tweaked!Maybe having two backstays vice the OEM split backstay could provide some additional masthead support for about, say, 5-degrees either side of centerline. A deck-plan drawing could show how much angle one could really get. This could provide some additional mast protection for lateral loads over the basic single backstay.I've seen failures of aluminum tube sections and I'm really impressed with just how easy it is for an aluminum section to fail. For our boat I started with a 2.5-in dia. spinnaker pole and after a couple uses realized I was in trouble and opted for the 3.5-in one. The smaller pole would bend something fierce and without what I felt was all that much load.Articulated sprit? whoa!!! that's really uping the ante!

 

[Ted Souter]

It is, indeed, a masthead spinnaker...

That is an owner installed mast head spinnaker system. I apologize for not having a photo online for it...

 

[Alan]

Ted, is there any way......

....that we can get in contact with the owner? I 've got a couple of questions.I'm adding the link for the photo of this boathttp://ironmountainyachtclub.org/Images/PhotoAlbum/resolute1.JPGJohn,I don't see how a double backstay would help beyond what a single would do. My thinking is to carry the big akite (masthead)which is designed for deep reaching, till about 120AWA and then change down to my reaching akite which flies from the standard spinnaker halyard. I only hope that the jumper strut doesn't interfere with the masthead chute. The articulating sprit would allow me to carry the chute to DDW if needed.

 

[Alan]

Roller Furling any Akite

Just got some info on a company that builds a furling system for any asymetrical spinnaker. The spinnaker is hoisted rolled on its foil and secured top and bottom. You then deploy and furl it with the furler control line. When you're done you simply lower the furled spinnaker on deck and bag the whole thing. This should give those not using a spinnaker an easy, safe way to handle it, even short handed.

 

[Mark Burrows]

One more question about H35

If this thread isn't dead yet, I'd like to ask one more h35 question. When Hunter went from the 34 to the 35 to the 35.5, did they do anything different in how they created the hulls and decks? Different materials, different processes...Markdb

 

[Alan]

Don't know, but why do you ask?

The layup of the 34 hull is every bit as good as the 35, 35.5 only thicker. Is there something you've heard about??

 

[Daryl2400]

I doubt the h34 is Thicker

because mine was THIN and flexed too much for my liking

 

[John Nantz]

Mark Burrows Question

re your question about if there was anything that was done differently...I can't answer your question about thicknesses or structural makeup, but, during the time the H-34 was in production the blister scare was really going rampant throughout the boat industry and there was a lot of study and research going on. About the time the 35.5 came out, as I recall, (this is about 15 years ago so someone correct me if I'm wrong) Hunter was starting to say the problem on their new boats was minimial (or perhaps the problem was cured?). Didn't they start having a guarentee against blistering? this was in the early 90s as I recall. So... difference between the 34, 35, and 35.5? I'd say it would be in the area of chemical forulation or perhaps better mixing of the chemicals.

 

[Mark]

Alan, I know nothing

Unfortunately I demonstrate that on a regular basis. My question is based on the H35 being in the middle of what seems to be a transition period for Hunter (B&R rigs, larger engines, open transoms). I was wondering if those changes also included how the hulls were constructed. Daryl has mentioned the flexing in his H34 many times. Other contributors have noted various conditions of the internal fit and finish. Since the H34 had been around for a long time prior to 87-88, Hunter probably new it also. John's insight on the blister is another indicator. My question is: did they do anything about it in the H35? Were they experimenting with the structural design?By 1992, it appears that a lot of these changes were being implemented across the line.Just trying to further my understanding of the tradeoff so that when I buy another boat, I will be able to ask good questions.Mark

 

[Alan]

Mark

I have the 35.5('93) and I believe that John has the 35. I had a 34 prior to my 35.5. I remember when I bought the boat it had a blister warranty from Hunter. I had no blister problems with either boat. I have the sales brochures for both boats and they both have the internal grid system that Hunter is using today. Major differences between them is the iron keel in the 34 and lead in the 35/35.5. Also the 34 uses a B&R rig whereas the Legend series use conventional rigs.

 

[Fred Ficarra]

Mark, don't assume all H34s flex.

Daryl's boat is accused of flexing by him. I bought mine new and still own it. No flex. My buddy's H34 does not flex. He's had it for over 10 years. The guy just down the dock has a H34, it doesn't flex. The H34 on the other pier doesn't flex,,,,,,

 

[Daryl2400]

h34 Flex

I've looked at a lot of these over the past decade and agree with Fred that they all do not exhibit this problem. The large surface area between the bow and the bulkhead (the side of the vee berth) is not supported properly for a panel that size. The gelcoat on mine eventually had some crazing in that area due to continually being flexed. On my pre purchase survey my surveyor (who once worked for a Hunter dealer) identified that as a problem area in the design and suggested I add small stringers inside to make that panel and the large aft panel stiffer if I ever wanted to go off shore.

 

[eds928gt]

Well mine did/does flex.

On our first attempt to sail my H34 from NYC to the Chesapeake, we ran into some heavy seas and wind. The 8' to 10' waves and 35 knot winds were on the bow and fortunately, the Yanmar held up ok, and was able to make tide-aided forward progress of about 9 knots.However, the crew and I noticed the V-berth walls moving (flexing) during this roller-coaster ride. To this day, there is no crazing along the forward part of the hull, but based on what I saw, I won't be planning any extended ocean voyages on my H34.~ Happy sails to you ~ _/) ~

 

[Mark]

Was it addressed in the 35?

On the 35, is the bulkhead in a similar position or of similar size? What stiffens that area?Mark

 

[Mark Burrows]

Field Study

I went to look at a 35 today. Neat boat. I liked the deck layout. I thought the Interior was comparable to a new 336. As noted in this string, common problems looked like leaky skylight, something leaking in the v-berth, and wiring. Also, it looked like most of the running rigging needed to be replaced.I think of all of these, the wiring worried me the most. I'm talking about the wiring on the OUTSIDE of the boat that I could see. The bow light wiring was dangling and had electrical tape. I'd hate to have to rewire it.The electronics looked very old. Maybe the original. I did not recognize the brand. Of the 35s on the market right now, most don't have much in the way of modern electronics (chartplotter, radar, GPS). I wonder why?Anyway, the 35 looks like a real good choice if you can do some of the refurb work.Markdb

 

[John Nantz]

Mark re: HL-35 Bow Beams

Mark - With regard to hull stiffening in the bow, the HL-35 has two beams that go forward to the V-berth area. They're both triangle shaped and are part of the structural pan liner. See X-section at: {snip -- see related link below}The lower beam goes as far forward at the V-berth. You'll notice there is a step at the V-berth and this is about as far as it goes.The upper beam goes just about all the way forward and the V-berth plywood base board is attached to it. Also, the water tank is located under the V-berth and is foamed into place. Aft of the water tank there is a partial bulkhead that also acts as the support for the V-berth. Structurally this area is quite beefy so you shouldn't have any concern about hull flexing.The boat hull is stout enough for any normal kind of boating activity that you would ever want to be involved with. If if makes you feel any better, we've got literally thousands of miles under our keel with absolutely no problem, including some mileage with ice bergs.See picture of us up Tracy Arm in Alaska: http://www.sailboatowners.com/forums/farchpix.tpl?xfno=122