I don't know if this belongs here, but this post has gone about everywhere, and I'll try and not write the short novel over it. I could no problem, but......I'm lazy.
Last year, (despite all my silliness about staying drunk or high, I don't really drink at all), I came as close as I have in a long time to taking a drink of liquor than I can remember. Over Awlgrip.
I was using this stuff on a customers very, very, expensive 54' Alden ketch, and I was in a push because of a deadline to get it to a movie set. Close ups of the actors, on the deck. It had to be right. I wish he had hired someone who knew what they were doing.
While that part about the experience is not necessarily true, at times I feel like the biggest flunky alive when messing with stuff of this nature. Awlgrip demands the exact same attention, and dedication that high-end varnishes require. Devotion. Madness. Nerve pills. And I love the stuff. When you get through, and it comes out right, it's awe inspiring how good it looks. And it is really not all THAT hard, you just can not cheat the details. Go ahead, try it. Go by the directions, and it will warm your heart. Don't, and it's probably going to be another restraining order. Again.
The cheats you may already be thinking about: Stupid primers. Negative.
All paint jobs are in the prep, and Awlgrip is no different. Use the two part epoxy primer. Yes it's expensive, but if you've chosen Awlgrip, you've already gone with the best, not the cheapest, and there is no cheap, short ways out. "Glob" it on, and wet sand it to where you want it. Nothing special here, it's a 50/50 mix, and those plastic measuring cups that they have at NAPA, or any paint store is a huge part of this. Because the Awlgrip measures 75/25. And only acetone will touch this stuff, alcohol will only swish around in the cup, amazing. Throw the brush away. Seriously, forget it. And if you are rolling it on, make sure you get "Brush converter", not spray reducer, (unless of course you are spraying it). Here's where you need to decide flow. It's an art form perfected by witch-doctors, and they are not telling. Depending on the weather of course, I use AROUND 10 percent reducer. For flow. And too much will give you holidays.If you are painting a deck or other flat surface, it is a helluva lot easier to get the hang of this stuff as opposed to a vertical surface. You only get to TIP IT ONCE! If you go back for another swipe because you see something you don't like, you have messed it up. If it is that bad, wet sand it out the next day, cover or buff it if you have the paint thick enough. Three coats and you can buff it hard, (after waiting a week). You can wet sand the next day. Done right, you shouldn't need to do either. I've been experimenting with nice, high quality foam brushes with this, and I like it better. No brush strokes to flow back in. This is where the art form comes in particularly. Even brush strokes, with even pressure ON THE TIP of the brush, not dragging it like a rope. Practice on the ol' ladies car, something that is not very important.
With that, don't be scared off by it. No other paint will give you the absolutely amazing results that Awlgrip will. There are few senses of gratification that you will get from stepping back and looking at it. My God the stuff is beautiful. And will hold up forever. I forget exactly, but the hardness comes way up there with gelcoat.
One last thing. This stuff smells to high HELL! You can smell it 500 feet away. I'll spare you all the tear wringing crap about gloves, (Awlgrip WEARS off of your hands, it does NOT wipe off), respirators and the like safety equipment. There again, it's targeted at the pro, so act like one. Sailboat owners are typically not idiots, so do not act like one. Spraying it without an air-fed mask is suicide. Just take my word on that one...
