Energy Wars

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Rick D

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Jun 14, 2008
7,204
Hunter Legend 40.5 Shoreline Marina Long Beach CA
My whine:

It used to be so simple in my first four boats: take everything to the boat in coolers. Get good, clear block ice, fill up the frig with the ice and the food, put something on top of the food and shut the lid. This would generally last for four days to a week depending upon all the usual factors. We would listen to the VHF (when there was VHF!), stereo (when there was stereo!) and sometimes a little TV (there was TV!), and use lights when we weren't using our oil lamps. It was rare the battery required charging and the first two boats had outboards anyway and had no way to recharge.

So then to the first boat with refrigeration in a well insulated box. It had a freezer but we didn't use it generally. At first we continued using the ice and with occasional use of the refrigeration, we got a week out of it. Later, it became nearly impossible to get good clear block ice, and the chipped packed stuff is awful. So, we used the refrigeration twice a day for about four hours. I ran the engine every other day for an hour. Stock dumb alternator.

OK, so then I learned from the AB refrigeration technicians that it is more energy efficient to have the refrigeration turned on full time and simply turn down the thermostat to save amps. I also changed the batteries out to Group 31's and added a separate start battery.

So, now in 1999 I moved up to my 1994 Hunter 40.5. When I recommissioned it, the service manager talked me out of a generator after pointing out that my use would not require it and it would just add weight and complexity. He suggested two banks of golf cart batteries, a Balmar 100 amp alternator, smart regulator & inverter/charger. The 40.5 has a separate large frig & freezer, each with its own compressor. The boat also had a nice TV, video tape player and all the other amenities of the era.

Soooo, the first thing I find is the power draw is such that I need to run the engine twice a day. The prior owner did not use the freezer as a freezer much, but my wife finds it very useful since we use the boat for long periods both at and away from the dock. Thanks to early discussions in the Hunter Forums and Rich Stidger, I learned about adding gasketing to better seal the lids which made a noticeable improvement.

Then I purchased three flexible 22 watt solar panels which I put on the bimini at anchor. This permitted me to cut down the engine run time to once a day, but still needing the occasional two. I was relying on my panel volt meter. I learned from these forums how inaccurate it could be, so I installed a Heart battery monitor. It really was off!

At a Yanmar seminar, I found out how damaging it can be to run the engine with only the alternator load, at least frequently. By this time, the full-time seasonal live aboards in the anchorage had changed to using portable generators, but they were very noisy. Then the Honda EU series came out and I purchased one.

The EU2000 works great. It takes between an hour and two per day depending on the season (remember the solar panels) and our energy appetite. However, it does drone on and I would like to cut down the run time. So, I changed all the lights (including running lights) to LCD. I changed the TV's to energy efficient ones (although we rarely watch anything more than an hour and usually less).

More recently, I added four fifty watt solar panels for a total of 266 watts of solar and a MPPT charge controller. I just came back from the island after eight days in the anchorage and this is what I found:

1. The significant solar charge was limited to 10:00 - 4:00 PM (Southern California August). Even with semi-articulating panels, it fell off rapidly before or after.
2. The theoretical output is about 19 amps. I was hoping for 12. I got maybe 9-ish.
3. So, I was only putting back about 10-15 net amp hours during the day.
4. I used about 60 amps overnight without the frig & freezer being opened and nothing else on. Add to that about 30 during the other hours the panels are not providing power and I'm still an hour to an hour and a half to charge the batteries (500 amp hours) to 80% given a power share setting of 20 amps on the panel which produces 66 amps charge from the Honda.

OK, so I'm still not happy.
So now what? The first thing I thought was that the batteries are getting weak-kneed since they are just wrapping up three years and that's about all I have ever gotten. So, I brought a good 130 amp load tester since I didn't own one and I'm sure not going to haul the batteries out to be tested. I'll test them before my next trip and replace if necessary.

What else? Well, the obvious thing is to better insulate, or re-insulate the frig & freezer. I already replaced the frig unit with a Sea Frost slim holding plate system and it's more energy efficient. I suspect the foam insulation has gotten damp and that will significantly reduce the insulation value. I'm thinking of going with closed cell foam which would keep moisture intrusion away but the cost of labor to tear out and reassemble the cabinetry would be on the order of several thousand dollars. Still, it is something to consider.

I could add more solar, but it would mean an arch and I don't want it on full time. I don't want it for races, day sails or in the slip. I can store my four 50 amp panels in the dock box and the three 22 watt flexible panels in the aft cabin. Works out well. I do notice that most of the serious cruisers in the 40'+ range have north of 400 watts solar.

I could add a wind generator into the mix and it might be a good source of energy replacement while the panels are not producing. However, the halyard-hoisted ones are no longer available and the guys tell me that 5 amps is about what I should expect in real world conditions. Of course, the wind does not blow all night either.

So maybe I should have put the damn generator in to begin with? No, the service manager was right. Most of the time I don't really need it. Increasing the battery bank gets me nothing but more weight. So, I'm guessing that a battery replacement would make life better for a while and I'll keep considering other options. But, I'm not going to go back to block ice and shut off the freezer!


 
Jun 6, 2006
6,990
currently boatless wishing Harrington Harbor North, MD
Welcome to the real world Rick
What you want to do is design a balanced system, loads, storage and production all need to be designed together to get a SYSTEM that works for your sailing style
There is a spreadsheet in the downloads section that allows you to do this and play around.
The best thing you can do is reduce your loads, insulate, change to water cooling on the reefer...etc. If you are under sail a lot the a hydro generator is the way to go. Also consider using that engine charging time to do other things like run a reefer compressor (and holding plate). Sun screens help in a lot of ways as the lower cabin temps (air cooled compressors) make the reefer more effective and make it generally more comfortable inside.
If you need help just email me.
 

Rick D

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Jun 14, 2008
7,204
Hunter Legend 40.5 Shoreline Marina Long Beach CA
Thanks Bill, I think using that spreadsheet is a good idea; I was trying to do that in my head the last trip and that's sub-par. An engine-driven unit as an addition would be great for cruising but not for hanging on the mooring for a week or two. I completely agree that better insulation is a key. In our area, water cooling doesn't add much. Oh, yea, I'm not disappointed with the solar since I knew there would be a real-world adjustment. Boating does that to you. BTW, I did put in a cell phone amplifier and a marine antenna. Works very well. However, it does need a signal to amplify.
 
Jan 22, 2008
551
NorSea 27 Az., Doing the To-Do list
Rick D,

WOW, your system used 60 Amps, overnight?? That is a LOT of juice. Are you sure that there is not something wrong with the system? How long does it run? Like 20% of the time or 60%?

We have a built in system that I did many years ago, but when we want to trim the power budget we have an Engel refrigerator box. It runs maybe 15 to 20% of the time. And that was in the heat of the Sea of Cortez AND it only uses 2.5 Amps when running!

Greg
 

kenn

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Apr 18, 2009
1,271
CL Sandpiper 565 Toronto
Hmm. Wonder if there's a market for a small diesel-driven marine aux unit containing an alternator and a compressor, that can charge batteries more efficiently than the using the boat engine or a 120vac genny... AND run refrigeration/air condition, or cool a thermal mass.

Any venture capitalists online?

(we still have the trailerable lifestyle... we freeze our waterbottles, any meat and gel-packs, load up two coolers, and we get 3 days of useable cool)
 
Feb 10, 2004
4,235
Hunter 40.5 Warwick, RI
Rick,

I truly feel your pain. We are on an extended Maine cruise and we are running the fridge & freezer. I see, on average, about 60AH used overnight from 10pm to 9am.

I have no solar, just an Air-X wind gen. On an average day I get maybe 15AH in a 24 hour period. If the wind is cooking at 20kts, the wg puts out a solid 13-16A.

I have a generator and on this trip I am running twice/day for 1.5 hours each time.

Have you considered going nuclear?
 
Feb 26, 2004
23,353
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
I truly feel your pain.

Have you considered going nuclear?
Or fuel cells! :)

It is so, so true. Once a fridge is involved, making energy becomes almost a preoccupation. A hazard of the trade, so to speak.

On one of our cruises we turned the fridge off at night. While it was hot during the day, in the California Delta the temperature drops into the 60s at night. That saved a LOT of engine run time at anchor for a few days. In the Delta, we also moved pretty much every day.

As Sumner recently posted on his fridge build for his new Endeavor, it's insulation, insulation insulation. Like real estate...:D

I'm sure each of us now knows, to the amp hour, what our energy budget is. The real trick is finding sources to replenish the draw.

Sounds just like my boat $ fund!!!:eek:

Our daily energy budget is 100 ah. I've seen it in action with our Link 2000:

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6353.msg41471.html#msg41471

In our energy budget, lighting is such a small percentage of the daily load that I have hesitated to even bother with LEDs.

Your boat, your choice.
 
Feb 10, 2004
4,235
Hunter 40.5 Warwick, RI
In our energy budget, lighting is such a small percentage of the daily load that I have hesitated to even bother with LEDs.
Stu,

You are right that lighting is a small percentage but that is because the refrigeration is so large. I would like to convert to LEDs just so I won't have to worry that every light is another amp. I could turn on almost everything and it would be the same draw as I have with just two lights now. Now I am just like "light-bulb Johnson" turning off everything that isn't absolutely necessary. I would like to be free of that .....

Unfortunately, I haven't found a LED that will fit my existing lights, puts out the same lumens as a 10w halogen, and is under $10. It seems that the claims of the LED sellers is not in line with reality. The LED lights that I have tested only put out about half the lumens of a 10W halogen. Or the really bright ones either don't fit or are priced well in excess of my pain threshold.
 
Feb 26, 2004
23,353
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
I may be someone (else?) whose parents most often repeated phrase was: "Did you turn off the lights?"

I'm still not so sure why people (anyone) "need" all these lights. If you're not in the V berth, why are the lights on? OK, Dad, I'll turn 'em off.

Most of our boats are in the C22 to C42 range, right? How many places can you be at one time?

On our boat, we have four main cabin lights, hard to reach but do-able. I added two halogen overhead lights when we bought our boat (http://www.c34.org/projects/projects-aquavite.html) but they're simply not on long enough to make a dent in the "overall" energy budget.

When we hop into bed and read, we have two other lights. Maybe 1 ah for the length of time we can stay awake to read by then...:)

I know that you know, but for others who may be attempting to seriously reduce their energy consumption:

1. Turn the lights off in "rooms" you are not IN.

2. Get a lamp oil trawler lamp - great for "good vibes" lighting

It's the (still) the fridge.

Rich, enjoy your cruise, I've enjoyed following your cruise. Thanks for including us.
 

Ross

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Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
Add insulation, go to bed early, get up early, stop wasting daylight. Summer night length is only about 9 or 10 hours anyway. Oil lamps provide functional light levels reading requires more and better lighting but not for the whole boat just for the page you are reading.
 

capta

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Jun 4, 2009
5,075
Pearson 530 Admiralty Bay, Bequia SVG
Eighty percent of our fuel usage is for refrigeration. We have an engine drive compressor and a Sea Frost 110 volt A/C unit to 1980's boxes. Temp fluctuation is about 6 degrees between running the gene. IT SUCKS!
Like others I'd love to build a new box w/ more modern insulation and 12 volt compressors, but at what point does a major cabinetry and mechanical rebuild become economically unfeasible? If I build the boxes and have the cabinetry done I'm probably looking at 3.5 grand or more plus the 12 volt refer/freezer systems.
Just how much diesel can I buy with that much money? Especially considering that all my systems work just as they should, considering their age. I can get upwards of 60 amps from my solar daily, which is nice, but still not enough to run the refer on the inverter.
And unfortunately, at my age, just how many years of cruising have I got left? Enough to warrant the expenses above? Sadly, I think not.
Gee, if only I could win the lottery. Wait a minute, what lottery? I'm in Grenada. Anybody want to play the lottery for me up there in the USA? I'll send you a few bucks.....
 

Sumner

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Jan 31, 2009
5,254
Macgregor & Endeavour 26S and 37 Utah's Canyon Country
.....Then I purchased three flexible 22 watt solar panels........

......More recently, I added four fifty watt solar panels for a total of 266 watts of solar and a MPPT charge controller...

.......significant solar charge was limited to 10:00 - 4:00 PM (Southern California August). Even with semi-articulating panels, it fell off rapidly before or after....

....theoretical output is about 19 amps. I was hoping for 12. I got maybe 9-ish.....
Rick are all of the panels running to the MPPT? If so there is a possibility of the different panels, 22 watt and 50 watt, maybe cutting down on the controllers efficiency. With the MPPT it works best when all of the panels are identical. Next best when they are the same cell type and have very similar operating voltages.

We had 3 panels on the Mac, a 40, a 60 and an 80. Different, but all the same cell type (Q-cells) and they all operate at about the same operating voltage of 17.2 volts. I was told by a tech at Blue Sky that if we mixed say another panel that operated at 16.0 volts then that is what the MPPT would try to optimize at. I might not have the wording exactly correct, but he strongly recommend that the cell types should be the same and the operating voltage the same. With our 180 watts during the good hours you posted we were seeing 10 amps.

Our panels are not...

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/FL-spring-2011/Title Picture-1.jpg

...shaded at all. We were further south, Florida, but this was in Nov.-Dec. and Mar.-April so the sun was still not as high as the summer months. I'd expect you to see similar amps with just the 4 50 watt panels. If the flexible are a different type you might be better running them on their own PWM controller and try the 50's on the MPPT. If you still have a controller for the 22 watt panels maybe give it a try. I've been told that you can run two controllers like that, but maybe call the techs at Blue Sky and ask for their opinion. They have always given me good advice.

If you can find a place another 80 watt...

http://www.solarblvd.com/Solar-Pane...80-Watt-12-Volt-Solar-Panel/product_info.html

or 100 watt...

http://www.solarblvd.com/Solar-Pane...00-Watt-12-Volt-Solar-Panel/product_info.html

....would give you the most bang for the buck as long as your controller would also handle the additional output.

Not sure which controller you are using, but the Blue Sky 3024iL...

http://www.solarblvd.com/Charge-Con...AR-BOOST-3024iL-30A,-12/24V/product_info.html

.... that we have on the Endeavour with 480 watts of panels (6 - 80 watt) is very close to its limit if the panels were putting out full max. amperage, but like you said they aren't and won't ever do that. Even if we added another panel or two and went over the rated amperage the tech at Blue Sky told me that they would just use up to the 30 amp limit and since they have an automatic 30 amp limit built in the extra amperage would not be used by the controller. The 30 amps is the maximum output they could produce regardless of the input amperage.

Sum

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Our Endeavour 37

Our MacGregor 26-S Pages

Our Trips to Utah, Idaho, Canada, Florida

Mac-Venture Links
 
Feb 26, 2004
23,353
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
Eighty percent of our fuel usage is for refrigeration.

Like others I'd love to build a new box w/ more modern insulation and 12 volt compressors, but at what point does a major cabinetry and mechanical rebuild become economically unfeasible? If I build the boxes and have the cabinetry done I'm probably looking at 3.5 grand or more plus the 12 volt refer/freezer systems.
I understand the trade-benefit relationship.

I can't figure how anyone could think they need to spend that amount to simply insulate their box.

$3.5K?????????

A few cans of foam or some Home Depot insulation would do it for me.

I just "haven't gotten to it yet." :D
 

Sumner

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Jan 31, 2009
5,254
Macgregor & Endeavour 26S and 37 Utah's Canyon Country
How much freeze/fridge do you guys need. We ran a gen-set 3-4 hours total in 2 months using this .....



...frig with most all of the electrical coming from 180 watts of solar. The new frig is larger (about 4 cu. ft.) and does have a small freezer section and will use less elect.. We often went 2-3 weeks before going ashore so had no need to hold items for weeks, which might be the case with some. We also didn't live on the boat year around and if we did I could see need for maybe a little more, but if you spend a lot of time moored or anchored in a bay with a town nearby isn't a weeks worth of food sufficient.

I think I could even supervise someone else to build a 7 cu. ft. fridge and a 4 cu. ft. freezer for $2500 or less. We probably have about $1000 total for the one in the Endeavour.

$2500 is some change, but I didn't like putting 2-3 hours on the diesel in the Endeavour and didn't want to listen to it running every day or the Honda 2000 we have.

We are not sure how many hours the diesel has on it and if all of a sudden we need a new one or had the one rebuilt because we were running it every day $2500 might not look like too much then. In fact if you can sell the boat later without all of those hours on the hour meter you might get more than $2500 additional for the boat.

I can go along with the age thing and putting money in the boat as Ruth and I are both very close to 70. The reason we haven't done the cabin upgrades in teak. I told Ruth today that it is nice working on an old boat as we don't have to spend as much for materials and the work we do blends in better,

Sum

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Our Endeavour 37

Our MacGregor 26-S Pages

Our Trips to Utah, Idaho, Canada, Florida

Mac-Venture Links
 
Oct 6, 2008
857
Hunter, Island Packet, Catalina, San Juan 26,38,22,23 Kettle Falls, Washington
Rick, we had the same bucket of worms on our IP38 when we moved aboard fulltime. We had approx 600ah worth of house batteries, 155 watts of solar and a 120 amp alt. Using the fridge required running the engine darn near full time.
After doing the math we installed an AirX wind gen and regulator, increased the solar to 300 watts. While doing this I found that the PO had added to his solar array without increasing his wire size from the first 50 watt panel.
Increasing the wire size made a massive improvement. We water cooled the fridge condenser and put 2 inches of blue foam insulation inside the fridge. That required very gentle lifting of the plates but it worked out fine. It cut the compressor running time by a good 60%. We also got rid of all the halogen bulbs (where used) and installed LED's almost everywhere. We only used the TV in port which was rarely and used the electronics only when the boat was in transit. We used the VHF during the daytime and the other radios while in transit.
After all this we found that we only needed to run the engine for the purpose of battery charging maybe once a week while at anchor and usually just normal running of the engine to move the boat was enough. We also both became experts at tracking our amp hour useage.
We were in the Gulf, Keys, East Coast and Bahamas. The wind charger and solar panel wiring were our answers. It's a battle between amps restored to your system and the depth of your wallet.
Good luck, Ray
 
Feb 26, 2004
23,353
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
Correct wire size: good catch.

Insulation...sometimes the challenge of putting it outside can be offset by putting it inside the box. Smaller, yeah, but cooler, yes.
 

capta

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Jun 4, 2009
5,075
Pearson 530 Admiralty Bay, Bequia SVG
The money goes to the galley cabinetry for the most part see pic.
I believe the boxes require a complete rebuild, not just a few cans of foam; the boxes are so outdated. With 2 sets of plates already in the boxes, space is pretty much reduced as well.
 

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