Canvas work

jibes138 · Jul 28, 2009

Sailing to Ma.

Unfortunately you can only get to Eastern Ma by sailboat, about a hundred miles or more from Osgoods. Of course along the way you could stop at Block Island and listen to Johnny Lynch at the National Hotel. You should leave pretty soon as it is a long trip and summer will be over before you get there. Block Island gets pretty deserted after labor day and by mid October they pull the docks out of the water.

BobM · Jul 28, 2009

If they have a good deal and won't ship let me know. When my Wife occasionally drags me into a fabric store it can take hours to escape. Getting her to go to Osgoods wouldn't be hard...however...getting her to leave....

Hypnautic · Jul 28, 2009

We're in the process of finishing a dodger built using a kit from sailrite - figure we saved about $3,000 doing it ourselves. If you're going to be taking on a big canvas project - here are some things we learned (the hard way) -
* Have plenty of bobbins on hand ready to go
* Unless you are great at sewing, I'd recommend getting a color thread to match your canvas. The kit came with white thread for dark blue canvas. Although the white thread would give the dodger a professional look (larger canvas shops use white all the time) it shows every little imperfection i.e. crooked lines, backstitching.
*Get the right size needles and change them often - without these you'll get breakage on your thread and won't be able to get through multiple layers.
*Have patience. Don't know where you can buy that - haven't seen it on ebay or any other website.
*We converted our pool table into a sewing table - feeding multiple yards of material through the sewing machine sometimes required two people.
*Definetly cut the sunbrella with a hot knife to avoid frayed edges - however, when using the hot knife don't carry on a coversation and talk with your hands else you'll end up with a hole where you didn't want one.

All in all, the kit came with more than enough materials - we ordered extra thread and some fittings. They also include some patterning material, which works great if its not windy. We bought a bolt of discontinued fabric to make the "dummy" before cutting the canvas - then after sizing the dummy to the frame, used that for the pattern.
We haven't installed the dodger yet...somehow drilling 20 holes topside seems more intimidating than the sewing project.
Good luck!

Cpt. Jon · Jul 28, 2009

Hypnautic said:
We haven't installed the dodger yet...somehow drilling 20 holes topside seems more intimidating than the sewing project.
Good luck!

We'd love to see the results when you are finished if you wouldn't mind posting a few pictures!

The Sew Shop · Jul 28, 2009

Hermit Scott said:
This is for you guys that sew your own canvas. what weight sunbrella do I want to use on a main sail cover?

Hi,
I am new to this forum, I have been reading the the replys you are getting a lot of good advise! I have been doing canvas work for over 25 years and Sunbrella is the best choice for sailcover's. E-bay (sailors Exchange) is the best price.
Sewing it your self on a home machine (BAD) one thing the machine is not heavy enough. another thing the thread needs to be UV treated, lightweight thread will not last outdoors.

caguy · Jul 28, 2009

Harbor Freight looks like they have a reasonably priced hot knife.

Manny · Jul 28, 2009

Hypnautic gave sage advice, especially about the bobbins and the thread color match. I didn't know about the hot knife, I used pinking shears instead. I can report that I don't have any frayed edges so far, only time will tell. One other thing that I recommend is to get a good seam ripper with very sharp blades. There is a type that almost looks like a scalpel but with a curved blade. It is a huge time saver especially when dismantling something to use as a pattern or correcting a mistake. I also didn't have much luck with seam stick to hold the pieces together. The sunbrella was just to heavy. Pins were much better but I stabbed myself about a million times LOL.

Manny

Ross · Jul 28, 2009

Use "T" headed upholstry pins rather than dressmakers pins. Pinning is a technique that takes a little learning, you stab the pin straight into both layers of fabric for a depth of about a half inch then turn and catch the rest of the two pieces depending on the weight of the fabric. Between my mother and my wife I was taught well. Mark your seam allowances with dressmakers chalk.

Ron20324 · Jul 28, 2009

Basic hot knives are just like pencil-type soldering irons- 40 watts and up.. Actually, you could use a soldering iron in a pinch. Sailrite.com has the hot knife for 24 bucks and up. If you're thinking of sewing, go online and ask for their catalog. It's great just to thumb through, like strolling thru a Home Depot.

An easy way to match fabric edges is just staple the pieces. You can do that as the pieces lay flat. Pinning could cause ripples. Just be sure to take out the staples so they don't rust later on.

Ross · Jul 28, 2009

The pins should be placed perpendicular to the direction of the seam and rust is the least of the reasons to remove the pins, they will stab you if you leave them in there. On complicated pieces basting with hand sewn stitches about a half inch long will allow a careful trial fitting before you do the final stitching.

Ron20324 · Jul 28, 2009

It's been so long since I've pin'd. I forgot you pull them out as you sew along.

jibes138 · Jul 29, 2009

Pencil type soldering iron

The only difference is the blade on the end instead of coming to a point has a flat curved edge. The problem with these low power pencil irons is they lose their temperature quickly so you need to go slow to allow the tip to stay hot enough. I use one all the time so it is fine, a little more power would be nice though. So you can buy a regular pencil type iron then get just the blade, might be cheaper.

TJ-LJ Champion · Jul 29, 2009

Morning to you all! It's been a while since I've visited but saw this post and had to chime in since the subject is near and dear to my heart.

The advice offered is great, here's some suggestions I have for doing any canvas since I just finished our dodger two weeks ago.

Heavy duty walking foot sewing machine is a must, I got mine used from Craiglist which is allot easier and usually local vs. Ebay.
Sailrite is fabulous and can answer any questions or roadblocks you have, Do get their DVDs for instruction BEFORE you begin the project.
Instead of pins or staples I use the medium or large black project clips you get from any stationary store or staples, these can be re-positioned without sticking yourself or bending any pins.
Make sure you position your sewing machine right next to same height table off to the left for extra support when dealing with so much weight and fabric.
If your Strataglass (or clear window material) doesn't come with a protective film DO use saran wrap or anything that can keep the glass from scratching while you're working on the project (protect both front and back)
I shopped around before getting my Hoover "Press-N-Snap" tool for all your stainless steel snaps and grommets, Got mine from Rochford Supply. This tool is a must!
Do use the double stick basting tape for under glass and other areas needing extra hold while working on the project.
Don't' make a pattern off of your old canvas, spend the extra $$ and get pattern material and work from scratch making adjustments to your existing frame tubing.
Do finalize fitting as you go making sure all snaps, lift the dots etc match before actually installing your fasteners.

I apologize in advance if I've repeated any advice already given. Good luck, this is a huge project and even though I'm an experienced seamstress this was a very difficult undertaking and needs more patience then you can possibly possess. Go Slow and take your time.

Chuckbear · Jul 29, 2009

Hermit Scott said:
lonesomedove said:

Don't' make a pattern off of your old canvas, spend the extra $$ and get pattern material and work from scratch making adjustments to your existing frame tubing.
quote]
That is interesting that you should say that. Why is it better to use a pattern instead of what you know works already? Is it to save time ripping out the seams?

Click to expand

Using existing old canvas will cause problems because the material is tighter when on a frame and will loosen and shrink when removed. The material will not lay flat and will be distorted in shape when removed, ripped at the seams and laid on top of the new material.

caguy · Jul 29, 2009

Before you buy that expensive hot knife. I sharpened the tip on my pistol grip soldering iron this morning and it works just fine.
I also use a single edged razor blade instead of a seam ripper. My wife owned a bridal shop and I've ripped miles of seams. If you grip the blade between your index finger and thumb and grab the material with the rest of your finger you can pull on the other side of the seam with the other hand. Just touching the seam threads will cause it to separate. When the blade goes dull you can just throw it away. Much cheaper than throwing away a seam ripper. Another teachnique taught to me by our seamstress was to pick stitch of the thread with a pin. Grab the short half inch piece and pull. The thread will pull out about a foot at a time.

Ron20324 · Jul 29, 2009

Hermit, to answer your original question, I would use the lighter weight fabric for the sail cover since it will be folded for storage, plus follow the contours of the flaked sail. Use the heavier for the bimini or dodger since it stays pretty much flat. When doing a bimini, I like to mark the fabric for the front or back bow, make it, then when in place, mark for the other bow.

jurgy816 · Jul 29, 2009

I know us sailor types are frugal - but unless you want the reward of making your own sail cover - why not use this web site to order one sized for your boat. This spring - I decided making my own did not offer the savings to pay for the learning curve. We have an O'Day 302 - and it came sized perfectly - with under boom snaps every 16 inches or so - zippered front - with velco closuers front and top. We are very pleased. With all costs figured in for making my own - snaps - zipper - velco - freight on everything - it was less expensive.

I do expect to make my own winter boat cover this fall - but this project is far less complicated and its doubtful anybody on-line would already have the pattern.

Why not check the ships store for your boat - they most likely have it already patterned. And it will give you a target price to compare against the cost of making your own.

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